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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/10/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
    Nice things arrived for me today 😊
  3. 4 points
    I'm not a suspension expert but I suspect that a lot of it has to do with the damping profile of the shocks in the car. MCA and other decent suspension companies use a digressive damping profile meaning that over smaller bumps the damper remains very stiff but when a bigger hit occurs it softens up. You can control roll extremely well while maintaining ride and wheel independence. When sway bars were introduced as 'the' silver bullet subaru handling cure all in the 90's/early 00's this sort of damping was not as common. Believe MCA has a more modern approach than Whiteline.
  4. 4 points
    Okay, the one on the LH side of the steering wheel. When you turn your head-lights on and the cluster/HVAC controls dim, that button might bring them back up to full brightness if you wanted to drive with your lights on during the day... The one on the RH side by the ignition barrel, that symbol looks like it might've been for one of the Japanese little parking distance bumper stick things they had, would often raise from the LHF corner of the bumper
  5. 3 points
    It's called the FA20 and it's been around for years now?
  6. 3 points
    Well finally after been parked up for just over a year the legacy is now driveable again with wof and rego and a clean
  7. 3 points
    singapore spec explains all 😂
  8. 2 points
    Hardrace is another good option. Most of there’s are hardened runner rather than poly which in theory will give a firmer but smoother ride
  9. 2 points
    I'm a tentative for meremere. pretty expensive for a drag day lol
  10. 2 points
    So who from ClubSub are heading to the Sunday Meremere event? I've got a couple of you on Facebook that i can see are attending, so i'm looking forward to bumping into some familiar faces.. but keen to know who else i should be keeping an eye out for. Its nice to meet people face to face but on the day its impossible to know who relates to what username 😂 I'll be there in a ratty silver B4 with a black bonnet so if you see me come say hi 👋 Cheers, Aidin
  11. 2 points
    Having spent some time on a sportsbike I'm of the opinion that too soft is just as sketchy as too firm. I personally run mca performance series with whiteline bars and links I have softened the mca's up by like 4 clicks f+r as I'm running 9kg/mm front and 8kg/mm rears as it's a occasional track/autocross/fast road type setup. It's going to be some trial and error, and to be fair bars are cheaper than struts to swap around. Most people do one or the other, I appear to be in the very small section of people that have done both. My setup is firm, and I know the alignment is a little out, but so far it's been really good. Can't really comment too much though, as I've only got maybe 1500km on it since putting in the struts, most of which has been work commute
  12. 2 points
    So a coilover manufacturer told you that struts are more important, and a bushing manufacturer told you that bushings are more important? Now there's the surprise of the century. /sarcasm. If the factory bushings are so s*** hot, why do the WRC Subarus use pillowballs pretty much everywhere? Also, #unpopularopinion but I would say (total spitball figure) probably 80% of adjusty/coilover installs reduce the car's cornering grip. Best thing I ever did for my car's handling was make it a whole s***load softer.
  13. 2 points
    1st gen foz - im biased of course having owned a non-turbo one, reliable as f***, got me everywhere, (had awd hi/low), come to think of it my mates mrs still drives it to this day the rvr is a car you'd never catch me in
  14. 2 points
    So, what do you think would be a sensible option for things to do on your car, just a week out from getting it tuned? Pull the dash out obviously! To be fair, it was sorely needed. So much old wiring. I also fixed my central locking at the same time. Not bad for a couple hours of work. Now... Time to put that dash back in, change all the exhaust manifold gaskets, put in my 10mm phenolic spacers and find other things I can break. Good times. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    If I end up going I'll throw some posts up on the Clubsub Insta and FB.
  16. 1 point
    @1randomkiwi comes to mind if he is keen.
  17. 1 point
    About time ! https://www.thedrive.com/news/30041/japan-only-subaru-sti-ej20-final-edition-promises-to-be-last-of-its-kind
  18. 1 point
    Guess Some poly bushes remove the linearity of the movement by being quite firm while turning on odd angles which can negatively affect handling but to say leave everything stock except coilovers seems excessive. A bush with less movement will definitely keep the alignment in check when driving hard but finding hard before/after data to back anything up is almost impossible
  19. 1 point
    Yes never go SOFT, but in comparison to track setups it’s good to be near factory settings for the road. For example, on some bikes you can adjust the preload on the rear shock on a sports bike, setting this one thing too hard means there is very little give and the force will go through the bike and not the shock and either give you a good jolt and wobble the bike or cause the tyre to break traction. Too soft and you pogo or there’s moments where there’s very little weight on the rear wheel I have both coilovers and upgraded sways. Halfway through changing out bushes and also ticked off quite a bit of chassis bracing on my car 😁. My experience so far -stiff sway bars on stock suspension -one position softer on sway bars with stiffer coilovers
  20. 1 point
    Riding sports bikes I can definitely say it’s better to be soft than too hard. Any little bump would upset the bike. Struts are supposed to absorb bumps in the road. The thing upgraded coilovers are supposed to offer is improved rebound and compression (individually adjustable that is) while not getting too hot or aerating the shock fluid.
  21. 1 point
    Independent roll control at each corner by using coilovers doesn’t address the other issue which occurs during hard cornering, that is the wheel itself trying to roll under itself from lateral force and creating less than ideal wheel alignment. Sway bars help keep the wheel in place while also limiting body roll, the drawback with this is that you lose wheel independence and whatever happens to one wheel more or less happens to the other to some degree. I can’t remember clearly but I recall an episode of Top gear or the Grand tour where they were driving a new Mclaren at the time and one of the key features was independent wheel control ? They attributed this to the tremendous handling ability of the car, each wheel was completely independent (power delivery, movement etc?) edit: 4 wheel independent steering
  22. 1 point
    The track is usually nice a smooth, no pot holes, dips etc - good scenario for suspension, no sudden change in force i.e hitting a pot hole or one wheel getting stuck in a groove and pulling the car in a different direction causing random movement in the arms etc) Road: all sorts of s*** surfaces, suspension components are being pushed and pulled in all sorts of directions - in this situation I would not want soft bushes allowing multiple components to move around at weird angles. A car can be made to go straight really well. A car can be made to corner really well. Doing both is hard and where compromise is needed (or a big wallet and R&D team) Sway bars are good on a level road, going over bumps can cause the car to act very squirmy - but generally an upgraded sway bar makes the car feel more solid. Bushes if they are too soft and have a lot of play can mean that the alignment can changes a few degrees under force. I experienced first hand when I was working on my car. I took the rear coilovers off the rear control arm to make adjustments to my sway bar etc, to get them back in I had to push the tyres in/out to get the bolts to line back up, and it was amazing to see how much the tyre would flex on certain angles as i pushed it (soft control arm / toe bushes). Bushes are generally there to isolate vibration and provide cushioning so the ride is improved. You don't want movement in these places, but for the general public you don't want noise and vibration on a road car. Coilovers have their place when they are designed well and tested.
  23. 1 point
    Cheers for doing the research and posting this up, its really good info. This is one of those 'it all depends on the application' topics. TLDR: I trust MCA's advince - They are based in our hemisphere and drive the same cars as we do on very simliar roads/tracks we do. IMO: MCA is in a better position to be calling the shots. Whiteline make some good products but if i was going to take anyones word, it would be the chap that is passing on feedback directly from the man in the seat of the car. I've run MCA Coilovers and have no doubt they know what they are doing. If running their products take their advice. On the flipside when running some generic BC or YellowSpeed Coilovers that dont nesaserily have spring rates tailored to your car, you may be able to create a better overall result with off the shelf items such as differnet bushings or swaybards. This is not the route I would take however. Furthermore! I think this is a humours topic in someways due to the fact that Swaybars are one of the common DIY driveway mods for street car enthousiats, its cute because arguably you are really just making your car less comfortable for the street. But we always do things like this to our delightful street cars anyway so i'm not pointing fingers, I've run Coilovers way to low and ruied ride comfort purily for easthetics... but i refuse to drop $200+ on swaybars that simply do not help the vehicle perform "better" but rather "differntly" on the street.
  24. 1 point
    Hey there, This has probably been asked many times but anyone have some tips on how much sealer to use when sealing a sump? Also do you normally run the beans of sealant around the outside of the bolt holes? I'm just paranoid about it leaking. Cheers
  25. 1 point
    The compression test was done cold. I am really not sure how you would do a hot engine test on an EZ30, unless it was only luke warm, its so much of a pain getting the covers off, leads off, coils out, and spark plugs out when its cold that doing it when actually hot would be impossible without super low profile oven mitts on. I talked to a guy at Subtech in penrose, and he was super helpful and happy to have a yarn about my problem. He thought low compression wasnt the end of the world, although the metallic particles were weird, he thought I would be able to hear a bearing going by now if it was the problem. He suggested doing a bit more logging and cleaning of components and continuing to monitor it so will do that for now
  26. 1 point
    If that LH side one does indeed brighten the cluster/ AC / Time display etc during daytime lights on i'm going to be stoked. One pet peeve i have with my BP is this issue
  27. 1 point
    Not sure, will actually go measure it tomorrow. Has to be 150mm away from the mount. Just looks hacked to pieces and it will need certifying if I weld in a plate. Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
  28. 1 point
    Damn that is a bummer. How much material has been cut out? At least you know you have a very thorough wof inspector. Today I painted the side trim pieces on my GC8 which were peeling to the chrome underneath like they all do. Also painted the crappy faded wiper arms while I was at it. Car looks much less old and weathered now!
  29. 1 point
    Good Evening, Are there any Club Sub members living in the Coromandel that fancy cruising up to FlatNats 19 in convoy? I am going on the Saturday. Cheers, Mike
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    I got to the end of this thread and realised there were no answers... but its ok because the Vengaboys are still playing... it was worth it...
  32. 1 point
    those gen 1 rav4's will soon be collectable like a j40 landcruiser 😄
  33. 1 point
    I bought kelfords beehive springs, larger tappets, their valves and cams. Put these in my car and it didn't make a huge difference to power levels around extra 10wkw. I did have reprofiled cams before though through Franklin so didn't expect too much. Getting the larger tappets In which hold the springs in on the valves is a bloody hard job, they are around 50% bigger than th OEM part. I've built my own heads a number of times now and these are way harder to assemble but are worth it as they are far better at holding the valve, spring etc in place, reccomend them. I line bored my crank too and has extra dowels In there to help hold it together.
  34. 1 point
    Been dealing with Mark for years. Awesome & Friendly service and always keen to help. 100% Recommend http://www.subwrecks.co.nz/
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    He really earnt his stripes
  37. 1 point
    Hi, A_J_T By the way, I solved the issue. Actually, the metal pipe with hose 10 (bleed/recirc for the ECV duty solenoid (coming from BBOD)) should not be blocked but instead it should be the one going straight to the Pre-turbo intake then the hose 10 from behind the battery (bleed/recirc from the primary boost solenoid) should Tee on it. I think that is the secret and now my primary turbo is boosting at 0.8bar and secondary turbo is boosting at 1.1bar. With upgraded fuel pump to Walbro 340 LPH, now am planning to install water-methanol injection kit with AEM X-Series UEGO 30-0300 wideband 4.9LSU next week then dyno-tune with ECUTek in order to achieve 1.3 bar = 18.9 PSI safely (Project Car (pics attached)). Below is Hose 10 Mod reference diagram: Courtesy of a member from UK Legacy Forum. Below is my car - 1999 GF-BE5 Twin Turbo attending African Rally Championship (Pearl Of Africa Uganda Rally) Subaru Owner's Club Uganda (Underground Legends)
  38. 1 point
    A hipster Mobile that would walk all over whatever we are driving. IMO there is nothing wrong here.. someone chose a cool car and went to town on a custom wrap
  39. 1 point
    Directed the crappy clear lights for some factory ones. Also replaced the ac compressor since I haven’t had ac since I bought the car. Turns out I’m a moron and should have pressure tested it first because when I went to charge the system I have a leak where the high pressure line bolts onto the compressor.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I have this exact same button in the same location in my 04 Outback. I've had a brief play with it but never actually taken a good look at what it does. It makes a nice clicking noise so sometimes I play with it when on a long drive 😂but thats the only use i've found mine to be. I thought it was something to do with the toll gate card reader that was all through my import when I got it.. but now that I see its not a one-off i'm going to investigate further
  43. 1 point
    even after your dodgy wof's, once you're green stickered, i wonder if your attitude will change once the inspector free boosts your turbo to oblivion on a road test. if i noticed that on a green sticker inspection, i would.
  44. 0 points
    Think i agree with everyone's opinions here. From what i've research in parallel too is that the best way is to start with a good set of coilovers, and then keep adding 'stiffness' from there. You don't want to buy 22mm bars and then install nice coilovers to find the bars are way to stiff. That makes a lot of sense to me. What doesn't make sense is why MCA say to not even upgrade the stock bushes? That seems bizarre. Surely at least whiteline bushings, maybe endlinks with their coilovers would mean less slop and better handling?
  45. 0 points
    Took the "new" legacy for a warrant and it failed! Someone has cut the speaker holes too big in the parcel tray and too close to the seatbelt mount, so now it needs a "panel beater report" and none of the ones in Rotorua will do it. Bought another crap heap. Fml [emoji26] Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk