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  1. 12 likes
    Lots of rumbling on @ToomTom and @Niran's garage threads, about people's expectations and experiences with performance workshops. I feel like it's a conversation worth having, because clearly we all have somewhat different levels of expectation about what we'll get when we take our car to a specialist workshop. And I have some grumpy rants to have about it as well. Keep it constructive, I guess. My 2c: On the one hand, virtually every modified car is different. There will be slight variations from build to build that introduce unique differences that have to be allowed for when you setup/tune the car. On the other hand, these are "experts" and they usually charge like a wounded bull, so the service should be premium. Because of these variations in cars, things sometimes go wrong, or don't work as well as expected. So my number one rule for a workshop: communicate. Tell the customer what's going on. And for the love of all things Subaru, have your ducks in a row when you talk to them. Don't give them some wishy washy bullshit with 9 different things that you think it might be. You're professionals, damn it, with a workshop full of fancy diagnostic gear (including, probably, a dyno), so come and tell me what the issue is. Rule number two: Unless the customer is like "I'm coming to get the car", don't push it out the workshop door if it's running like a bag of balls. Generally people spend like 6 months or more building the car, a couple more days for you to iron out some little issues is nothing; the customer might be a little bit disappointed but if you follow rule #1 and have a concrete conversation about why you need the car longer they will be understanding. If you hang on to the car but fail at #1 you look incompetent. And so help me, if you have more than one car with the same issue, and you fix it on one car and don't fix it on the other, and then tell the owner of the second car that it's the same issue as another car that you already knew about but you didn't fix it on their car, you look incompetent. I've taken a car to get tuned, it had issues, the tuner nailed it down to a single factor, laid out my options, we made a decision on it, got it sorted. Easy. Seriously, I feel like I have had some sort of blessed experience with tuning. Drive/trailer the car in, leave it for a couple of days, drive it out.
  2. 12 likes
    Thought I'd better post a pic of my latest family member, had it a wee while now to be honest but kept pretty quiet about it.. NZ new, second owner and only 77 thou k's now, rust proofed when new so very very tidy, everything works including air ride, digital dash and not a single squeak or rattle while driving. Got a few reliability plans for the EA82T to keep it alive forever (under bonnet air/water intercooler and stainless exhaust plus a few other tricks learnt over the years), but keeping it as standard as possible will be the mantra throughout. Bit of a dream car for me to be honest, i even had the Tamiya model of this exact car/colour/interior as a kid!. Joins my Brumby as a permanent member of the family along with the everyday drivers.
  3. 8 likes
    That we all have!! In other news. Slapped the new battery in because well its been 4 years minimum since the last one. It runs! It was a bit rough to start but once kicked over that was it. Took it for a quick little trip up the road to the petrol station to check the tyre pressures and all is well there. No longer is the RA unable to move under its own power! Finally she's alive Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  4. 7 likes
    So other than my random purchases of the day, at lunch I went down to BD Motorsport and got the blow off valve welded on! Looks blimmen good if I don't mind saying so myself. Also check out the size of this turbo!!! Huuuuuuge Garrett. Can literally put my whole hand in the intake it's so large. Couple shots of how I've got the fuel system stacked in there. it's a bit tight and could do with some more alignment but for the time being it'll do well.
  5. 6 likes
    I know that some years ago the answer was a resounding no - you could go run a 10 second pass with a super ropey half-cage made of exhaust off-cuts arc-welded together in your mates garage and that was more or less fine, but MSNZ would laugh at you if you tried to get the cage homologated.
  6. 6 likes
    Making a digital day/logger work raspberry pi. Can either run Android with ecu software, or rasbian with full version of tuner studio so I can actually make adjustments and setup triggered logging as my ECU has no onboard logging. Sent from my M6 Note using Tapatalk
  7. 5 likes
    Today is the day I got to eat some of my own humble pie. I have as such come here to repent for my sins. Turns out I was totally off the mark and am a complete oaf when it comes to wiring. Yep you heard it, got it about as wrong as you can get. Simply put I didn't terminate the positive OR negative well enough and that was all. Had nothing to do with the patch loom I bought. As such, the wideband is working now but the battery is stuffed... Onto the charger it is! Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  8. 5 likes
    Making this topic so people wont run into the exact same issues @Niran and I experienced. Hopefully this will save people a lot of mucking around. The Problem The GV/GR fuel hanger seems to be a significantly restrictive part of the fuel system on late model STI's (MY08 - MY14). Because of this restriction it causes fuel pumps to get hot, cavitate, and eventually fail, causing big issues down the line. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being un-pressurized, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. The Solution This issue can be resolved by using a surge tank setup, or by replacing the fuel hanger with an aftermarket alternative. Radium Engineering hangers have been proven to resolve the issue, as well as the Process West surge tank option. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. Additional Info This may also apply to a select legacy GT's between MY05 and MY07. Someone to confirm, perhaps @Andy_Mac may know, but I believe they use the same hanger. Please note that this discussion is aimed more towards people chasing big power (300kw +) If you are doing simple bolt-on's this may not apply to you so don't worry! Solution A: Aftermarket Fuel Hanger The below is for a Radium Fuel Pump Hanger. (20-0380-00, 20-0382-00, 20-0383-00) It is recommended to purchase the plumbing kit for this too. Solution B: Surge Tank Process West Anti-Surge Fuel System - https://processwest.com.au/surgetank-08-14 Solution C: Hack Job Nobody we're aware of has tried this yet, if someone does can you take pictures and post up step by step instructions and ill add it in here. Contributors: @Dairusire @Andy_Mac
  9. 5 likes
    Hey guys, from a technical perspective. you aren't describing cavitation as such. Cavtitation occurs when the pressure on the suction side of the pump drops too low (usually a negative value determined by the pump design) for the pumps given amount of lift. This boils the fluid on the suction side of the pump and the bubbles then collapse on the impeller. What you guys are describing is more like what I would refer to as dead-heading a pump. This is where the fluid essentially stalls (relative to the impeller) and you get fluid slip on the impeller (like compressor surge). It sounds like you are driving the pump off the end of its operational curve, and this is driving the current draw up and frying the pump motor. Can someone measure a dead pumps electrical resistance versus a good pump? Cavitation would destroy the impeller and maybe the shaft bearings/surfaces. Dead-heading will burn out the motor. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  10. 5 likes
  11. 4 likes
    Easy. Grab a windows tablet and connect it to that.
  12. 4 likes
    What @Andy_Mac said is right, but to expand on it. To achieve 300KW+ you need a very high flowing high pressure Fuel pump, this goes up the feed line pressurised and through the rails to the regulator. Regulator then sends fuel back down the return line to tank. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being unpressurised, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. So in short, you modify/replace/change the stock hanger so there is no restriction and thus no pressure issues which could solve your entire problem. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. EDITS: Because I'm dyslexic, I'm fixing my grammar and spelling as I spot it. Have to re-read things like this 10,000 times to make sure I've got it all
  13. 4 likes
    Yellow injectors,link ecu,maybe a new fuel pump and fuel filter depending on the condition of yours and a tune.
  14. 4 likes
    The SVX comes equip with the diverse; Luxury Sports mode, Featuring Sports Cruise! Laugh as you Cruise past less Sporty cars that only feature the classic "Cruise" feature - which studies show is 100% less Sporty Lesser vehicle owners will cry as their sports mode button doesn't activate ANY form of Luxury, let alone Luxury, at the exact same time as Sports! Straight out of the imaginary SVX Catalogge
  15. 3 likes
    And then some muppets tell me they'd rather get a brand new Subtech for the price of my (now sold) HKS pipe
  16. 3 likes
    What Inked said is the best practice. If you've seen the likes of @RaKid's engine bay, and you want quality work (Not saying the others suggested aren't at all) then BD Motorsport is a place I'd recommend. A close friend of mine who used to work for them, and is now working for Cameron Racing in the states for GT stuff, says their work is top notch and Ben is really good at his stuff.
  17. 3 likes
    You would need a 6 point at minimum but in your case to keep the car road legal you require a 8 point which goes to the front strut towers. You just go get your MSNZ licence then apply for a authority card no cert required.
  18. 3 likes
    anyone make it ? didn't see any svx. i was parked under a tree. ps... why is this in the wellington section ? shannon is closer to palmy
  19. 3 likes
    Yeah shiting into your gearbox is never going to be good.
  20. 3 likes
    Got another one added to the collection. 1984 Leone GT. JDM EA82 Turbo, 3 spd Auto, Air con, Power Steer, Trip Computer, Digital Dash, Electric Windows, 4 wheel disks, had Air Suspension but removed. Just over 100 thou k's, drives like a dream, no rattles, fantastic condition and a real credit to previous owner/s. Plans: 5 Stud Conversion, LSD rear, Air/water Intercooler, 15's and Lowered. Happy days.
  21. 3 likes
    When I say I want it to last AND that I want to lower it, I mean I want to lower it a little to where it doesn't look like a mix between a Lamborghini and a ford ranger. Just enough to where the wheel gap and ride height are enough to escape my driveway without grounding my sump to a stump.
  22. 2 likes
    There is also a place in CHCH called NZ rollcages and they pre bend kits for you, example a half cage kit shipped to wellington is $290.00 incl. Could be good to look at then you just need to find someone who can weld it up
  23. 2 likes
    If you go forward through the firewall find someone who’s done the Subaru before. Ie go ask the rally guys. The last place I when had templates for all the cuts in the body so it looked great. Rally places may already have something they have planned and ready to bend up fast.
  24. 2 likes
  25. 2 likes
    Canbus is 3.3v or 5v like most logic circuits isn’t it?
  26. 2 likes
    bunch of pinouts links in the Mega FAQ thread Ill check some links shortly
  27. 2 likes
    V7 ECU Pinout is at the bottom of this document: https://linkecu.com/documentation/WRX9+.pdf Not sure about the rest, sorry.
  28. 2 likes
    Ringing round some wreckers will be the best bet. There will be heaps out there. Try @Subirex Automotive, he might still have some from the one they recently wrecked. Not sure if any models came with blank left hand ones though. What's the reason for wanting blank on both sides?
  29. 2 likes
    Been collecting all this stuff onto my hard drive. I even made my own pinout for the pre-face-lift BE/BH's. So here's the ever illusive BH pinouts. Caution, it's still a work in progress BH5A Turbo Pinout - WORK IN PROGRESS And some handy stuff: MY99 Legacy Wiring Diagram. Turbo models included! http://reuben.xpjets.com/random/BH-Conversion/BH-WiringDiagram-JDM.pdf V5/6 Wiring diagram and pinout http://reuben.xpjets.com/random/BH-Conversion/Possumlink-MY99Manual.pdf Legacy pins vs Impreza pins. The top is legacy, bottom is Impreza. Note the pin numbers, B134, and B136 are reversed on the 2. Factory legacy pinouts, awaiting proper scans
  30. 2 likes
    Back when I was a wee chap (at primary school even, like 1988-89) my best friends dad had one of these. He was so fanatical about it and I could have sworn he loved it more than both his kids combined. I think he got it as the first nz owner with something silly like 25,000km on it. Drove it on his daily commute of 300 odd km 5 days a week without fail for years. Still had it when I left college some 7 or 8 years later and was looking just as good as the day he brought it. I think it was the first turbo car I ever rode and with that body styling it was like being Marty McFly with the doc on an acid trip. I still remember how gutted he was when the fancy factory suspension gave up at somewhere around 400,000km and he had to replace it with kyb's (i think), never have I seen a grown man so gutted. Later in life when his son begun driving it we lined up for the mandatory dad's car drag race. I had my old man's company povo spec legacy wagon (he use to be a Subaru mechanic once upon a time), all 1.8 liters of it and surprisingly murdered the poor vortex. Turns out it was painfully slow after 3 trips to the moon and back. Anyway, that's my story of how I viciously lived the life of a vortex owner. Cool car bro, giz!
  31. 2 likes
    Marky is right. i used to work with them alot. Call Thomas down there he just started but he has worked for george stock for 2 years so he knows his stuff, he likes mx5s and landrovers but meh a cars a car. Also Darren is right about spring rates and such it will ruin your handling and feel. I used to work in the suspension game for 5 years and ive seen it all to lower a car and how much stress it puts on other things that you dont think about. just to have a nicer looking car can make everything else worse. My say is invest in tyres and swaybars.... but then no one makes swaybars for a svx.... well bellum and east mite but you would have to give it to them and ask for a bigger one
  32. 1 like
  33. 1 like
    @sobanoodle BuT NZDM yO! I still rate my DIY option really, 40 odd dollars for a flange, some steel tube off cuts and a few spare hours and it probably performs just as well as an overpriced Subtech pipe
  34. 1 like
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    From a quick look while I was at a conference today. That nzdra book says you can use it for both provided it is cromolly. And meets both standards. Also has something like sub 9.90 is full cage, 11.00 is half based on a what the chassis is. Msnz cage youll have to do two club level events a year to keep it legal. Youll need to read both books and talk to a couple of shops that do drag and rally as forum world isn’t gospel
  36. 1 like
    Hey guys I haven't come across these factory service manuals on this forum yet so below I've got links to FSM for Imprezas. Wiring diagrams included. Also have a few for certain Legacy and Forester models. Should save us the effort of browsing other forums. http://ken-gilbert.com/page/3?s=impreza+manuals&x=18&y=14 http://forum.wrx.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=45443
  37. 1 like
    NZDRA cages != MSNZ cages... need to figure out which he needs... can NZDRA cages by made road legal? i.e. do they have an equivalent of the MSNZ authority card? Can NZDRA cages be used at MSNZ events?
  38. 1 like
    I need wiring diagrams for Jdm v7 sti , and 1990 rs legacy bc5 I'm trying to fit a v7 engine into a old rs and need advice and diagrams please Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
  39. 1 like
    they are probably on the Link ECU Website truth be told as they are very user friendly & community tuner orientated? (cant say (i've looked : just a brain fart : idea)
  40. 1 like
    Hard to believe it's so difficult to find full wiring diagrams? Still havent found the info I'm after , asked on nasoic and dirty ol bc ... would I have any luck contacting subaru directly ? Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
  41. 1 like
    Haha bugger. We've all made silly mistakes like that before.
  42. 1 like
    They do exist “does my arse look fat in this?” Not only dumb but it’s a trap too.
  43. 1 like
    If the link doesn’t end in .jpg it won’t auto display the image so make sure you copy the correct link from the site you are hosting from. plus make sure you are pasting the text link not trying to paste the image into the post.
  44. 1 like
    until
    We are looking at running a cruise from Christchurch up to Cave Stream near Castle hill. The cruise will start at Raeward Fresh near the airport, conveniently placed right next to the BP. Route will be north of Raeward Fresh, getting off at the Kaiapoi exit, then along the scenic inland route to Cave Stream via the Sheffield pie shop at Oxford and Castle hill for a quick stop. For Cave Stream, everyone will need two head torches and a towel for the cave. The cave is 600m long and takes anywhere up to 45 mins to get through. Due to the nature of the weather in the area, extra safety cautions should be observed. The information can be found at: http://www.arthurspass.com/index.php?page=169 The route to be taken on the day: https://goo.gl/maps/2D83Yoh6TBs This is a social cruise.The road along the inland scenic route, the motorway and up around Castle Hill are prone to Highway Patrol. Although spirited driving is the order of the day, Exceeding the speed limit or driving in a manner that could endanger others is not welcomed. The cruise is subject to weather, If it is unsafe to do Cave Stream or the weather looks unfavourable we may head to Castle hill as a back up destination for the day. More information will follow over the next week as we get closer to the date. Come along, talk cars and go for a swim through Cave Stream!
  45. 1 like
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  47. 1 like
    Very tidy! My first Subaru was a blue XT (reg MX9138); loved it! Had issues with the suspension but the local subbie dealer did a some magic to keep it going. Was an amazing car to sit in and drive... the electronic dash was fab and the 'joystick' transmission. Clocked up a fair few ks and fun in her. Had to sell her when circumstances changed :-( Just checked out the reg on CarJam…. deregistered in 2002 and off the road at 222,000km :-( Have a 95 SVX now 360,000km and love her too! Fingers crossed for many more years of enjoyment and pleasure out all of our cars!
  48. 1 like
    You need to sign into an image hosting site like "photobucket"and upload your pics there. Then copy the link that it'll give you and paste it here to post an image. The link will have "img" tags or start with "url=". Here's a comparison of the 4 plug ecu's that I've managed to chase all the pins over the years. The bd5a/bg5a pinout is completely different to the normal wrx or bc5 pinout. So you'd have to know whether your possumlink was originally intended for the normal layout or for the bd5a layout? I didn't think that they made a possumlink for the twin turbo, 4 plug legacy?
  49. 1 like
  50. 1 like
    Assuming the engine is cold, the amount of oil inside the rocker cover should be minimal