sobanoodle

Out of curiosity checked my ex 3.0R and she's due for a recall.

Yep most likely, I got one too in my fairly short ownership.

Keep an eye on TM and FB, genuine ones pop up every now and then. Just make sure you get the one specifically designed for a 3.0 bumper (pre-facelift)

Sway bar was sold ages ago unlike a bunch of braces that I never get around to itemise and list properly. Have some for the front and a few for the rear including one that goes across, kind off like an underbody strut brace 16mm is not as bad, if I remember correctly NZ new had 14mm there.. I first upgraded to an STI GRB swaybar and then to Ultraracing.

Dang I still have some brand new underbody braces (Hardrace) and used Cusco, would've been cheaper than those whitelines That rear sway bar should make it handle so much better. Stock one is a joke.

Wheel alignments?

What's the chassis number? BP5-xxxxxxx

What sort of specs are you looking for? Japanese are nothing like some euros where you can decode a VIN and get a full spec sheet with all the standard and optional equipment.

The amount of uneducated bullcrap some people come up with is just amazing It's a limited version but nothing too special really. And certainly more than just 10 in NZ.

Do it yourself. Headunit will be plug and play, just make sure you get some harnesses. Get a 2DIN kit. SWC should not be an issue with the latest HU as they can "understand" Subaru's signals. Failing that you can always get a decent SWC control unit off amazon/ebay cheaply, wiring is not that hard. Cameras are cheap too and are easy enough to install, just find a wiring diagram and find out what/where reverse gear signal wire is so you do not have to run the wiring all the way from the taillights.

Flashed TCU with a xHP flasher and Stage 2 map, might as well give Stage 3 a try at some stage as it only takes a minute to flash a new map.

No idea what G but was a 2.5L. Same as here

I had a ”pleasure” of driving a 2016 or 17 Mazda 6 wagon for two weeks as an insurance loaner. Fuel consumption wasn't anything spectacular at all. Noisy engine that you have to push hard. Very basic multimedia etc. In all honesty I'd rather drive a 4th or 5th gen Legacy than that Mazda.

That. A stereo in my Brighton 220 that I had moons ago would restart every now and then when brakes were applied. Cleaned all the earthing points I could find and never seen it happen again.

Haha yep had the same experience - certainly do not get treated as one that potentially pays their salaries, i.e. a customer. They certainly do not prefer buyers that know exactly what they want/need. I found main/brand dealerships to be the most helpful (and persistent afterwords if you leave your number there).

Not that wheels are falling off euros everyday...

Yep, I have to admit I was very much against them on any of my Legacies but seeing so many people happily slapping spacers on their bimmers all over the world made me to reconsider... Got some extended bolts to match too. Had a quick catch up with @im-a-bus and her gorgeous M3 (fitted with spacers too, obviously...) and she pretty much convinced me that there is nothing wrong with having spacers on ya bimmah

+12mm front +15mm rear Very happy with the fitment, that booty is even fattier now

This: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/bmw-recalls-268000-diesel-models-uk-over-fire-risk

Received a recall campaign letter. Off the goes to the dealership next week.

Facelift twin cat HKS.

And then some muppets tell me they'd rather get a brand new Subtech for the price of my (now sold) HKS pipe

Which is a container and is a few months wait. I had an unpleasant experience with 41 Automotive which are/were a CS sponsor. Nor they ended up being much cheaper than going through buyee of the likes anyway. Priced up a few things through MLR too (including a Bilstein B12 kit). Was still cheaper and certainly much quicker to import myself directly.

I'm pretty sure you can still do sea freight if you're prepared to wait for a couple of months and find a retailer willing to assist. From what I remember B8 are designed to be used with lowering springs and B6 for stock. Also keep in mind that that different revisions of BL/BP were equipped with different revisions of Bilsteins hence you'll see different part numbers. Earlier revisions were the stiffest ones.

Get some Bilstein B6/B8 and you'll be all good. Check local prices but most likely you'll be far better off importing from the EU (based on my experience anyway).