Andy_Mac

+1 for Loonies. It's a good page dedicated primarily to the BL/BP chassis

If you're not up for it yourself any car audio shop should be able to sort it. By adaptor is it just an adaptor cable or one of the interpreter boxes? I had some trouble with mine not sensing the resistance differences well so I ended up using an interpreter box as well which definitely helped but I had to run my own cables as they weren't there from factory which I assumed was where the issue was

True that. At least they don't tax the out of town allowance

I won't be anymore. Gotta work the whole way through that weekend getting a site back up and running but at least the pay check will be epic

I’d be inclined to clean it up and respray with header paint and call it a day. Unless by rusting out you mean it's actually steel flaking from serious rust and not just old paint? Worst case scenario if you get a new one is a bit of boost spike if the dynamics of it are considerably different from the current one. Invidia make decent enough ones that aren't too expensive. Or possibly pbms but theirs are mild steel. Just be careful ordering as some models this age were single scroll so not all sites make it super clear what they're offering

Cool. In case my last comment was confusing, I do have new matte black ones along with some used silver ones

Yep I sell them. I've got some new or used light silver ones which you'd have to try paint to match yourself

That's a bloody ridiculous figure aye, have you looked into second hand units from a wrecker or not willing to take the gamble on another dud. Just about any double din unit these days works with basic steering wheel controls, not 100% on call answering though

Getting your one done is probably the easier way to go rather than trying to source some super old flogged out block that’s possibly been oversized already. Unless yours is toast obviously, then it may be better finding something newer like a GRB shortblock with the thicker walls in general

Go for the PBMS closed deck for sure. I seriously regret not doing it whilst my block was apart. My 257 made 330wkw with the intercooler being the weak point but any more than that would be risky for the semi closed deck

-Skip the RCM head gaskets and go for something like the Athena fire ring ones. -Depending on what you’re using the car for a better sump like an IAG or KillerB wouldn’t be a bad idea since everything else seems to be reasonably big budget parts. -The RCM custom timing belt tensioner is a good idea too as it uses the better original design but with an extra idler bearing to keep it from jumping. RCM sells timing kits that utilise it. -Also, I could be wrong but unless your valves are toast currently you shouldn’t really need to bother with aftermarket ones for this power level. 350wkw on pump isn’t crazy these days.

Chances are it’s no different or worse than the kind you’d pick up from Redline etc. but for your build why would you even consider it. Just suck it up and get a CSF or Koyo one and save yourself the worry of using something cheap

4th gens are a more appreciated vehicle in general with it being the first gen that the US got proper turbo’s versions so they’d probably be more inclined to jump on if ever allowed for import. Aussie tbSTI’s still typically go for just under 20k so by that logic 28k for one of these isn’t too steep.

that td04 would need a tune and maybe bent/new oil and coolant lines but other than that it’s a direct swap in. You might be better off finding a used vf45, they usually go for more like 5-600 so way more reasonable. The key is to find out why the original failed before chucking a different one on, so many people just change the turbo with these cars then complain the new one died after a few hundred/thousand km’s as they never fixed the original problem

What injectors does it have standard? I thought the rev D’s had decent sized top feeds already? A cheap decap or bumping the fuel pressure up a bit should give you a decent amount more headroom though.

@Loren Do they do oddball turbo’s like this car has? @tjfreestone It has the same fitment as twinscroll BL/BP’s so nothing outside these has the same fitment. The only upgrade option is from Mamba/Kinugawa that do a TD04 with a bigger comp wheel and same fitment besides oil feed and maybe coolant positioning which differs from the stock VF turbo Someone was selling one the other day that may still be available https://www.facebook.com/groups/3142531835810763/permalink/5604921429571779/

Which port on the heads got used? Front or back? One is baffled and the other not so it could potentially be hooked up to the wrong one. If the bottom of the can isn’t full then it isn’t so bad. It’s just full of moisture which is preventing it from seeping through that bottom baffle plate

That seems like quite a lot out of the heads aye. Is it driven particularly hard? Does yours have the twin ports on the heads or just single? What’s the size of those? They look like the small Mishi ones? Also having them VTA doesn’t negate the need to empty them periodically.

Go for the Invidia then. Empire is pretty much eBay spec stuff so don’t expect bang on fitment or a decent cat in it

PBMS has the Invidia one for $1100 which is a bit better than the other price you had

From memory this was correct last time I used it. The colours they have listed may not be correct but the positions on the connector will be. https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Subaru-Suzuki/subaru_legacy_2008_pinout.shtml

Quite a lot of parts will say they’re not compatible with older models as the US didn’t get on the STI bandwagon until well after most other countries. A bit of detective work may be needed on partsouq and places like that to confirm whether things actually share common part numbers

Do a ECU reset at the same time or it won’t help much as it will still have the current corrections stored.

Yea definitely. In theory it’ll actually be cheaper as the ECU won’t have to retard the timing anywhere near as much so you’ll need less fuel for a given power requirement.

If you can get hold of recaro rails compatible with your chassis then the GR/GV Recaro’s are very supportive for a factory option seat. Deep enough for decent support without being too uncomfortable or hard to get out of