Pappu1

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Pappu1 last won the day on September 27 2018

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267 ok this is getting a bit out of hand

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About Pappu1

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  • Drives :
    Subaru
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    auckland
  1. the code can be deleted and you can remove the items when you can later done that to a few cars
  2. therre are also hoses and vacume lines in the BBoD thats on the strut tower - make sure all atre intact usually underside - there is a actuater under the intercooler check that as well.. a workshop can do a inlet pressure test in case its leaking boost from somewhere the vf33 sounds like secondary i believe (vf32 being the primary for u)
  3. no leaking hoses or rips etc..?
  4. had a similar issue in a TT before where ti issue trned out to be a faulty primary turbo - have you had it checked for functioning turbos and leaks etc>?
  5. i have done the following in the past : set a boost switch to a timer circuit. that way the spay continues a few seconds after the boost event (gear change) set the boost switch to low trip (say a few psi) in an additional step, you can add a temp switch that only allows circuit activation on higher intake temps (saves on some water) but the initial setup (despite being hard on water use) is good for a all round spray setup that works well
  6. guess we can try it out and see what one yeilds better power ..
  7. was peak boost the same?
  8. not really i guess - maybe just downpipes and hose 10 mod and boost controller and using some knock detection/afr logging equipment, safely up the boost.. that could be an alternate but for that is not a tune as such - more of a safe boost setup have done that for a few cars where ecu was not accesible
  9. after remap - whatever the engine is happy with. if its healthy sometimes 18/19 at high point or even 20 then settles lower in high rpm.. all depends on the health of the engine do basic things like service and perhaps a spark plug, also do an upper engine cleaner as well replace your fuel pump and filter so you have good fuel flow
  10. the older pre v5 GC were more basic i think in the v5/6 GC they added a few more smarts the GD got a lot more smarter and better the GR onwards went back to being pathetic with no spray except for the single spec c version .. what a pity they missed the spray on the GR/GV models...
  11. easy to put a temp boost gauge romraider should be accurate to within reason.. tee the boost gauge off the bov line and just run it to the cabin for testing no need to hardwire it or do it too neatly for now while u testing
  12. try the hose10 mod and see if u like it some people dont like the feel of it and revert back.... keep an eye on the boost gauge and dont hit over 16psi for now while you testing
  13. as above.. ecu swap needs to be accompanied with loom and some sensors and few other bits.. the rev c may be tuned on ecutek which is what they would potentially use. if you are wanting some cheap gains then just the exhaust system makes for a decent pull perhaps a zerosports sequential controller helps with VOD some people dot the parallel turbo mod (hose 10 mod i believe its referred to) and up the boost a bit..
  14. the ecu controls it it can use a few inputs like rpm, temp,boost, speed etc and then based on conditions it will spray the sprayer can be tuned to suit usually if im doing a reflash on stock top mount, i will make it have more aggressiveness the spray unsure on the GC8 parameters but thats what the GDB has above
  15. i did this to my old RA - had a remote start to allow for warming up was great and really good for cold mornings.. only issue was that - one time the alarm got stuck and would not stop engaging the starter motor i though i would burn the starter off as it kept starting the car despite me turning it off maybe was a glitch ..who knows but i stopped using that feature after that....