Pappu1

the rev d ecu runs the single setup better but you have to have the matching manifold and sensors as they are different to the rev b u have.. also you are right about the crank wheel being different as well so swap to a rev d or v7 type

hoping it goes superb do sing out if u need a hand ok

hey man, 19psi is ok for a tuned v9 to hold usually drops in the higher revs .. with catless exhauts, they do spike a bit and normally its the spike that could be the issue .. either way, with a good tune, they get safer and can run that boost well.. will pm u.. is your one a black v9sti? surprisingly, we just tuned 2 black V9's in the last few weeks with similar setups...

you are located in auckland ya?

i will check it out mine does the exact same thing stays super lean and then occasion would show rich and on the odd occasion shows fine on idle

how did you fix ypur "dead" unit? what were thye symptoms im hoping i can sort mine as well

do the "replacement" sensors work any good (worth the monies? the AEM leaflet says does not need free air cal but is it worth a try at all? mine reads ultra lean and then spikes rich and normal for a second then back to lean

typo 4.9 i mean oops sorry..

any well priced locations where i can ge Replacement Wideband sensor for AEM UEGO kit think they are the Bosch LSU 4.7 .. i think...

cant seem to find much on modified stock cradles...

the code can be deleted and you can remove the items when you can later done that to a few cars

therre are also hoses and vacume lines in the BBoD thats on the strut tower - make sure all atre intact usually underside - there is a actuater under the intercooler check that as well.. a workshop can do a inlet pressure test in case its leaking boost from somewhere the vf33 sounds like secondary i believe (vf32 being the primary for u)

no leaking hoses or rips etc..?

had a similar issue in a TT before where ti issue trned out to be a faulty primary turbo - have you had it checked for functioning turbos and leaks etc>?

i have done the following in the past : set a boost switch to a timer circuit. that way the spay continues a few seconds after the boost event (gear change) set the boost switch to low trip (say a few psi) in an additional step, you can add a temp switch that only allows circuit activation on higher intake temps (saves on some water) but the initial setup (despite being hard on water use) is good for a all round spray setup that works well