Loren

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Loren last won the day on June 5

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556 my mum says I'm cool.

About Loren

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  1. Hi Matt. I stuck with the divided up pipe all the way to the turbo... figured there would still be some benefits from less pulse interference. Whether it's that or the headers, the spool is better anyway. Good to know... it helps to confirm my thinking then. Something I have discovered is just how meaningless a dyno chart is in some respects. The divided 1.01 and single entry 0.63 with both spool almost the same on paper, but couldn't be different on the road.
  2. They have done the same to me, their computer system is useless... I always give them the part numbers now.
  3. BNT have always had good prices on whiteline stuff... ask for a discount, they seem pretty willing to accommodate.
  4. Green line is old SS headers and up pipe... yellow line is new oem TS headers and up pipe.
  5. You would be better off with an egt sensor as the temperature can be too high for many reasons... including high egbp, but the egbp should not change unless something in the exhaust changes... it will change across the rev range... but that's all.
  6. The subaru headers are just too long it seems... I think the factory system is probably okay as they would have done a lot of R&D and got everything match perfectly. The GT3076r is smaller than the GTX3076r... which might explain that? I think the 0.82 would be too laggy for me... probably really good for a track car though. True, but they have a 2.5 and AVCS.
  7. I never thought it was choked at all based on the amount of power it makes and the fact that it makes good power up to the redline. The constant heat damage to the headers is the only thing that has made me suspect there is a back pressure problem... but it could just as easily be that the temps are normal and the headers were just old and worn out. Still no dyno chart due to a power outage at the tuners all day.
  8. Agreed, very weird thing to do. I have two ports at the base of the up pipe... currently both have a thermocouple in them, but I will probably put a pressure sensor in one of them at some point.
  9. I don't know about the back pressure as his lines kept melting... not sure how that works exactly, he mentioned using a rubber line from the exhaust to the sensor, and they all got melted the last time the car was on the dyno. It is spooling pretty well by the feel of it now, and the top end is good... so it's hard to imagine that it's restricted, but I am just speculating. Your car might behave differently of course... different cam profiles etc.
  10. These are some notes I have emailed to myself in the past that I can find easily... doesn't cover everything you want though. Rear suspension Big lateral link bolt = 100 ft-lbStrut to knuckle = 162 ft-lbTrailing arm to body = 85ft-lbTrailing arm to knuckle =66 ft-lbLateral links to crossmember = 74 ft-lb Con Rod Big End Caps = 44.6 N.m (4.55kgf-m, 33 ft-lb) Block Bolts: 12mm Head = 25 N.m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft-lb) 14mm Double Hex = 47 N.m (4.8 kgf-m, 34.7 ft-lb) Sump Baffle Plate = 6.4 N.m (0.65 kgf-m, 4.7 ft-lb) Oil Pick Up Pipe = 10 N.m (1 kgf-m, 7 ft-lb) Sump Pan = 5 N.m (0.5 kgf-m, 3.6 ft-lb) Cylinder Head Bolts: The text refers to bolts A,B,C etc, they are as follows: A = Top Middle B = Bottom Middle C = Top Left D = Bottom Right E = Bottom Left F = Top Right When removing Cyl head bolts, they should be undone in the following order. F E D C B A Refitting Cyl Heads: (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N•m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N•m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (4) Tighten bolts (A) and (B) to 34 N•m (3.5 kgfm, 25 ft-lb). (5) Tighten bolts (C), (D), (E) and (F) to 15 N•m (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°. (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Ensure that the total “re-tightening angle” [in the two previous steps] do not exceed 180°. Camshaft Caps M8 Bolts = 20 N.m (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft-lb) M6 Bolts = 10 N.m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 lb-ft) Cam Cover = 10 N.m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 lb-ft) Camshaft Timing Wheels = 98 N.m (10 kgf-m, 72.4 ft-lb) Timing Belt Idlers = 39 N.m (4.0 kgf-m, 28.9 ft-lb) Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket 25 N.m ( kgf-m, 18 ft-lb) Timing Belt Tensioner = 39 N.m (4.0 kgf-m, 28.9 ft-lb) Timing Belt Covers = 5 N.m (0.5 kgf-m, 3.6 ft-lb) Crankshaft Pulley = 177.m (18kgf-m, 130 ft-lb Oil Cooler Modine = 55 N.m (5.5 kgf-m, 40 ft-lb) Water Pump = 12 N.m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft-lb) – Must be done diagonally and re-checked Oil Pump = 6.4 N.m (0.65 kgf-m, 4.7 ft-lb) Inlet Manifold = 25 N.m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft-lb) Exhaust Manifolds = 35 M.m (3.6 kgf-m, 26 ft-lb) Flywheel = 72 N.m (7.3 kgf-m, 52.8 lb-ft)
  11. I don't have a copy of the dyno chart yet but going back to the SS housing restored the performance luckily... spool is slightly better even. So OEM TS headers and semi custom TS up pipe with a 0.63 AR SS housing performs better than the same system with either a 0.61 or 1.01 AR TS. Kinda curious how the 0.81 AR TS would have performed, but not going to try. Next thing on the consideration list is whether to get an e30 tune to keep temps down with anti-lag.
  12. What pl0x said, and in addition hold the belt firmly on the wheel... or it will jump teeth.
  13. Why wait for round 4? Round 2 - Sunday 23 June 2019 Round 3 - Sunday 11 August 2019 Round 4 - Sunday 29 September 2019 Round 5 - Sunday 01 December 2019
  14. Some sort of messed up earthing springs to mind. The fans and relays are permanently powered... if those relays are some how earthed incorrectly, they will power the fans.
  15. v-band outlet length is about 5mm longer on the SS. The TS 0.61 and 1.01 housing are miles apart in size, yet the distance from the inlet to the outlet is the same and they both bolt up to the same exhaust. There is no reason that I can see for the SS to longer either.
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