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About logan25

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  1. Well against the odds the engine still roars into life - THANKFULLY Appears that in the previous cambelt replacement, the waterpump was not replaced and some of the idlers were not replaced either. From what it appears, the waterpump seized completely, and one of the idlers was somewhat destroyed, hence the belt didnt actually fully break, just lost tension and melted in places. Must have been serious heat as were lots of burn marks on the tensioner as well. Luckily I had the new cambelt kit on hand so all is back.
  2. Yeah I will pull off the front case at the weekend and find the culprit, I expect something was rubbing on it over time. Just prior to pulling engine might throw an old belt on and see if it starts. Maybe on the off chance everything somehow survived. Looking at just doing the EJ20X swap, hopefully shouldn't give too many headaches. Although I do have a question if anyone can answer: It is always known that the auto model with the EJ20X produce 260 BHP, whereas the manuals with the EJ20Y always produced 280BHP, is this a de-tune in the ECU causing this or actual engine difference?
  3. So here's an interesting update: Decided it was time to get tuned by Cyro in an attempt to fix the fuel learn issues, was planning to change cambelt, water pump and oil this weekend, before the tune. Previous cambelt was done 40,000KM ago. Driving today, noticed car was 'idling a bit weird', as in wouldnt hold idle very well wanting to stall the engine almost. Coolant temp starts to spike, quickly pull car off the road, shut down. Inspect and seems okay (I thought). After 20mins of cooling down, restarted, sounded terrible and within 5 seconds heard a dreaded snap and engine died. Tow back to house, and yep as I thought, cambelt had fully snapped. Now to decide: To go ahead and install the cambelt I got for it (and hope for no internal damage such as valves, pistons etc). Or Throw the spare EJ20X engine into it (is currently an EJ20Y as manual trans') and go down the path of getting tuned for the new engine. Are the same year, 2006, hopefully should be not to many issues with the swap. That could fix potential stutter issues, knock issues and the fuel learn issues. Engine has 130,000km. All is character building
  4. From memory I used “Fuchs Titan ATF 4400”. Was on an 07 Legacy GT 5EAT. About 5L for a basic drain and change, if dropping the pan/valve body takes a bit more
  5. So I had the nexus unplugged for a few days while I sorted out a suitable charging system, plugged in again, I see the LV has dropped to -10.6 at idle. This is an improvement since it always sat at around the -15 earlier, will keep monitoring it, hopefully it swings around to within the -5 range, On another note, anyone had much luck with good OTG charger for the Nexus setup? Got one from recommended from amazon and it only outputs 1,200 mA, seems to only just keep the nexus alive and barely charges on shortish trips.
  6. Yeah im thinking trying to get rid of it via tune may be way to go. I did inspect and replace the O2 sensor a while ago, when it came out had a bit of white deposits on it, thought that indicated lean henced made no sense why ECU would pull fuel, however my AFR always seems to in the correct range for power settings. Next time im looking at the car might have to inspect everything near turbo and downstream.
  7. So replaced the fuel injectors with a set from a lower KM engine. Seals I ordered were for the fuel rail, not the actual injector so didnt change them, looked like another big process. Also changed the intake manifold seal with the newer thicker O ring. But still have the high negative fuel trim at idle. Have reset computer and test driven. Not to sure what next step would be, might start having to look around the downpipe/O2 area.
  8. Okay yes that makes sense, sort of what I'd imagined would be happening. Have made a fixed install of the nexus and noticed it was pulling upto 16 PSI then drops to 14 after a few seconds. - Regarding IAM, since running 100 octane, never dropped below 1. Good sign. - Learning view, still have the high negative values at idle but haven't done anything to fix as was away on holiday. I have received the intake manifold seals, just waiting for the fuel injector seals (Part suoq screwing me around with the order) and will replace. Will probably put another pair of used injectors in as well. Hopefully this weekend if not next all will be here. -Funnily enough the stutter decide to re-appear at 2,800 RPM. My first runs it was fixed after changing vacuum source for FPR (so I thought). Maybe too longer line now? All connections are tight. Didn't reset the ECU, could have learned it? Will re-inspect again when doing the work, could be the FPR requiring a change? Learning lots as I go 😁 Edit: Just thinking aloud here. Low rpm, negative boost is running. So essentially a vacuum is running throughout the entire intake system including post turbo? Is that correct?
  9. If anyone feels like enlightening me on this issue. Boost under WOT: Factory tune, Boost target, consistently 14 PSI according to ECU. Actual boost, jumps up to 16 PSI for a few seconds then slowly returns to a stable 14 PSI, is this usual?
  10. Not to sure if its the same for the 2002, but can try use this guide. I ended up cutting the circle plug/loom from the original HU, using the colours to match up to new RCA plugs for the new stereo.
  11. First time using the site, lots of stuff there! So far I think I will need: Intake Gasket 14035AA492 Fuel injector seals 16608AA040 Other seals for the BPV, airduct from turbo aren’t in stock. However mine look good, and didnt show anything in boost leak test. Any other seals you can recommend to get? I havent ventured to much further apart from the ones above. Thanks
  12. You refering to the oil residue on the manifold area with the plugged cap on cylinder 4? I did replace the intercooler last week but still have the negative values. When I get back from a holiday in a few weeks might need to take the whole top manifold off and replace the seals as the subaru tech did mention quite a lot of oil residue there as well. Might change over the injectors while im there as well.
  13. That was a straight forward fix for the stutter problem. For those doing it in future: I used the following -3/16” Fuel/Vacuum hose (only need like 20cm). Supercheap auto - T connector (https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/champion-hose-connector-reducing-t-piece-8-6-8mm-polymide-6/p/226534) - 6mm Vacuum caps. Instead of using the Cylinder 4 source again, I capped it off using the vaccum caps and cable tied: Then from the BPV I cut into the line, inserted the T connector, joined the original lines to it (is a real squeeze but do-able with hot water and rubber grease), and then attached the new 3/16” hose to it: Then with the other end of the 3/16” hose, attach it to the FPR: All new connections I did were either cable tied or hose clamped. Will see if the mitre 10 mega T connector holds up to the job.
  14. So figured to make it work, the line coming off the FPR is 3/16 (5mm), and the line coming off the BPV is 5/16 (8mm). I assume it would be best to T the 5/16 hose coming from the BPV and find a connector with these measurements for that: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8mm-Hose-Barb-x-5mm-Hose-Barb-x-8mm-Hose-Barb-Tee-Brass-Barbed-Tube-Pipe/32818405836.html Then just cap up the Cylinder 4 port as its in an awkward spot. Anyone know of any local places to find these T connectors? Only ones I can find for the likes of repco are all 8mm connectors etc. Edit: See supercheap and mitre10 mega do assorted connections, might check in store. Plan is to get plastic adapter like above, and run the 5mm hose to the FPR
  15. Sounds like I need to change that over. Does any extra piping need to be purchased for it or do the original lengths cover it all? Will do this weekend