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Showing content with the highest reputation on 17/07/18 in all areas

  1. It'll be fine *touches wood* Just install this, so you can touch wood all the time
    2 points
  2. anyone feel like becoming a moderator to help sort this list out? formatting is up the wops
    1 point
  3. Just received my parts from @D1Style. Send late yesterday, received in ChCh just before lunch time! Stoked, now gotta get a warrant and fail then put my bits in. Gonna be a busy weekend. Need to do inner LHS CV boot, 2x sway bar links and 2x ball joints.
    1 point
  4. Any of the old school subie mechanics know the difference between the 4EAT transfer solenoids? My BG9A lists a part number not in stock on partsouq. But I have a part number which looks identical in the google image search listed for facelift BG's/late 90's, which is in stock... When it comes to hoiking used solenoids in, if the shoe fits, in she goes... But why did subaru have different part numbers? They don't supercede to eachother. Numbers that I'm aware of: Early - Bolt in the rear housing style BC - 31942AA070 - Listed agains a 91 facelift GT BG-A - 31942AA051 - As googled, "94 BG" BG-A - 31942AA061 - Listed against a 95 250T BG-B/C - 31942AA090 - As googled "97 BG" Later - bolt onto trans style (from what I can see in the diagrams - found this listed for an SF5A im working on) SF-A - 31942AA103 The main question obviously is, if i order the facelift BG solenoid, will it work in my prefacelift BG? My assumption is yes, but I'm asking to double check if anyone knows if there will be issues with this. And lastly for those who have no idea WTF I'm yabbering about, if you've ever driven a 90's auto Subaru, and when you turn hard lock on a corner, the transmission binds up, and the car sorta stops moving. If you power though it you often get a chunk-chunk-chunk coming from the gear box (often miss diagnose as binding rear diff), or your inside wheel braking traction and slipping forward, as iff you had a locked diff. This is whats wrong with it, these little slolenoids I've been talking about fail, and the centre diff locks up. If the car binds completely as described, chances are the centre diff clutch packs have eaten grooves into the clutch housing, and replacing the solenoid will no longer fix the issue completely once this has happened (though can still help a lot to replace it). If the trans power light blinks at you every time you start the car up, and there's a slight resistance to turning on full lock (i.e. the car will stop driving itself forward as auto's do), the solenoid is still failed. but the centre diff hasn't wrecked itself yet, and replacing the solenoid should completely fix you're issue. (Of course check your trans error code to confirm it is the transfer solenoid, aka duty solenoid C, before buying parts...
    1 point
  5. Images of the Verticooler installed:
    1 point
  6. jared, Clint; someone update it, my timeslip is there just waiting for a mention on the first post
    1 point


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