Leaderboard

Interesting. A misbehaving o2 sensor could be the cause for just about all your problems. Will cause it to run like crap and could be the reason your LV’s and fuelling is so messed up in logs.

Decided this has been stagnant far too long. So here's the next location. Old (Auckland Airport from Puhinui Rd): New:

Man, this car is getting annoying. What does it mean when CEL & Traction lights are on solid, and cruise control flashes? I have checked the codes and I get P0037 as a result. It's still hunting a bit at lights, and almost stalls when stopping at times, but seems to be fine at power. *shrugs* don't want to spend more money on this thing, might be time to get rid of it maybe.

What Andy said Does it idle ok after taking it for a full open throttle run? Some nice diagrams and tests for the sensor https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2450569&page=2

95svx; didn't see you ! next year pix not working

from evo uk april 2019

Whip the two silver accents off on either side and there are 4-6 screws holding it all in depending on how many screws the last guy dropped and didn't find. Pull the transmission ring too and flick the lower cubby up and off from the low side. Not the easiest to explain but it's super easy once you start

AFAIK, the Gen 1 Impreza MAP sensor taps out at 1.27 Bar (18.42psi) - so anything above that would mean you're starting to lean out if it wasn't for short term fuel trim. I'm no expert, not even close, but my understanding is that once you've breached the upper limit the ECU only thinks your boost is the upper limit i.e. 1.27 Bar - how or if your O2 sensor can override based on a now lower than expected AFR, I simply don't know. I'd be interested in getting a tuner or someone that knows definitely on this thread to explain the factory behaviour of this - I've always been curious. To answer your questions: I think your down-pipe appears to be over spooling the turbo and the IWG can't flow enough gas through to stop you overshooting I'm not convinced a manual boost controller would do anything but it's a cheap test and then you can correct me and elaborate on the impact to the behaviour you're experiencing I don't know What I can tell you a test that I've personally carried out. From a complete factory set-up I: Removed IWG actuator and replaced with TurboSmart one Patched compressor outlet vacuum directly to IWG vacuum inlet completely by-passing the factory BCS Tested and adjusted my actuator so my boost target was 1.2 bar out of a maximum possible 1.27 bar Why did I do this? So that I could raise the boost without using an EBC or boost tap What did I experience? Rock solid boost with factory spool characteristics with a complete 3" turbo-back exhaust

Damn you have one stunning car!