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373 at 18.5 psi, anymore timing or boost and the clutch starts to slip. Guess I know my next step!

I thought he meant just the engine bay... not sure why... but yeah... for time attack type vehicles they are probably good, as long as you have a good aero guy

Mine did for ages. Like yourself and Caleb it bugged me because it didn't drive like an 3.0 but also that IAM would change weekly, even on the same fill of fuel (98 RON), weather so on. I had an e-tuner work on it before learning basic open source tuning but neither helped much aside from using heaps of fuel. Then had Tactrix log full time to SD card awhile and loaded it all into a database to analyse the parameters when the worst feedback or rough knock correction happened. Highway gradients in 5th would trigger changes which is lugging but other times it would jump around in benign driving conditions. By then I loved reading and learning anything on the H6 3.0's here or other sites, still do. But back to hardware. IAM's been higher but more importantly stable and driving better with recent fixes however it's just a month in. Also it's Autumn so things could change when warmer humid weather arrives, or before. Most of these helped my car, you might have done them already but if not I hope they help ; Cylinder compression & leak down test. For sanity and to make sure I wasn't spending up on a no good engine. Regular servicing. Just good fluids, genuine filters & parts as we don't know what the previous owners did & our cars are fussy as. Check the plastic air chamber that sits behind the throttle body. There's a known vertical crack that opens up front and centre. Also the join seam that runs around its circumference can peel open a little. They can cause vacuum leaks but are easily filled with JB Plasti Weld. Check the catalytic converter covers, they are made of mild metal and should have a couple mm gap around the pipe at the forward and rear openings. Mine were rusted around the bolts & the ends smashed right up onto the exhaust pipe plus small stones trapped inside. These factors can make a vibration that the knock sensors shouldn't hear . Change the in tank fuel filter & strainer. I ended up changing the fuel pump as well which is provided with a new strainer but you can buy them separately. This change was also reflected on the knock logged.

I think it’s a slippery slope. Few to many deal posts and shops join just to post crap. but even if it wasn’t from James I’d have posted this. crazy Something like $400 off the first link price. plus pretty sure I have been in hospital twice without one so even at full price very much a must buy.

Not 100% sure but imagine the replacement of factory emmision devices such as cats would need to be tested and confirmed to meet factory standards It has been illegal for years but not actively pursued by WOF issuers but something has changed in the politics of it so they are now getting a lot more serious with checks. Previously you could try your luck and easily slip through as many have. Not that we would advise anything outside the law, but decatted factory downpipes very often still slip through as they look factory so testers often don't think anything more of it.

I think it does f*ck all unless you're full racecar and the car is low as a low low thing, and you're driving on a race-track smooth surface. Otherwise the turbulence under the car is a joke anyway. I think for fuel economy you would spend more on making up a flat bottom than you would ever save in gas. EDIT: This also completely throws out the window that Subaru spent a whole pissload of R&D on designing a bunch of aero for your car already; for example the gearbox tunnel creates a low-pressure area at the rear of the engine bay that is intended to draw air down through the intercooler and past the turbo; if you put a full under-car tray on this would probably become a high-pressure zone instead due to all the air coming in through the bonnet scoop having nowhere to go. Amateur aero is more or less a complete waste of time on the road.