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Showing content with the highest reputation since 19/08/21 in Posts

  1. Took the car out for the first time since polishing and coating it during lock down.
    5 points
  2. Tidied the wagon up a bit. Gave it a front lip and some new paint on calipers. Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
    4 points
  3. Done my first wheel bearing/hub today. Rear passenger side wheel bearing on my 2016 STi gave up at 98,000km. Must have worn out prematurely from all the AWD burnouts on the Taupo skidpad! Sorry for the poor quality pictures, they were taken on Snapchat and then saved…
    4 points
  4. Installed carbon fibre/alcantara wheel
    4 points
  5. 4 points
  6. $1500 is for a long motor that the seller thought was toast. Which is about the value of the things that bolt onto a dead long motor. Used low-ish Kms EJ205 long motor, let's say $2k. Gaskets, seals, odds and ends that you would want to refresh, coolant, oil, probably $1k, 1.5k if you want to do the cambelt. Can you do all the labour yourself? If not, engine out, refresh replacement motor, engine back in, probably $2k+. So you're looking at $5k to revive it. If you went to a 207... shortblock or long motor? If I remember right the shortblocks are a couple of grand, then all the misc you would have to do, at least a couple more grand, then labour, a few more, then you would presumably need a retune as your compression is probably different, I'd say $10k all done and you would have probably the same performance as you do currently. EJ207 long motor, let's say $4-5k for the motor and bits hanging off it, $1k refreshing it, $2k labour, $1k tune (or maybe you could swap in an STI ECU?) - $8-10k and you would get EJ207 performance. But you would be better off selling yours before it blows up and buying an STI.
    4 points
  7. The gravel express ticked over 250,000kms today. Well, the base chassis did, mostly everything was refreshed, so not much is actually that old. Although I realised that also means the engine has ticked over 400Kms since being built now, and it's been absolutely flawless in that time. I've been enjoying driving it every now and then, and it's been super practical. The lease on my workshop is up at the end of the month, so using this to move everything to my lock up, it fits a surprising amount in it, that's for sure. Just wish It had roof racks for some of the larger stuff!
    4 points
  8. Made a spur of the moment decision to outdo last year's lockdown attempt and do a dodgy driveway engine and turbo swap this time round.
    4 points
  9. I had a big job adding a piece of plastic from a Legacy in the STI’s engine bay. As expected it fits just the same on the GR/GV chassis, unfortunately the Legacy battery cover doesn't quite fit the same as the support behind the lights is about 5-10mm further forward so none of the front points line up. I might still cut it slightly to fit but it’ll probably bug me not being a perfect fit.
    4 points
  10. I've decided the nasty plastic trim on the wheel arches are great, will be easy to unclip/unbolt and put on a decent looking/functional set of aftermarket fender flares Also looks exactly as it should in the traditional livery rendering Decent looking as a hatchback that will never exist alas Also as a hot wagon that will never exist (but we have the Levorg which is rumored to get the 2.4, shame there is no 6 speed manual)
    3 points
  11. Well technically speaking you didn't change the bearing... you just swapped out the whole hub
    3 points
  12. That is a good question. I don't know what spec the current cams are. They came in the car... no markings and are a bit on the weird side. Without dialling them in they caused #2/#4 to run very lean, and #1/#3 to run very rich. It lead to a great deal of head scratching to figure it out before I had adjustable cam gears. Once dialled in, that problem was solved to a degree, but they are still just bad. Good power once spooled (at 5k rpm)... but s*** everywhere else. Very sluggish to get off idle... chronic fuel smell at idle... chronic fuel consumption all round. They are not high lift because the heads haven't been modified to fit them and there is plenty of clearance... but I think they have a moderately large duration and a s*** load of overlap. New cams are Kelford 199-j... short duration, high lift and almost no overlap. Should be night and day.
    3 points
  13. I had partsouq orders through the last L4 no delays.
    3 points
  14. Well cos COVID and well all of 2020 since March being out of town, this got nowhere. Just as I go to restart it, the car door gets messed up in attempted thief. Then car got stuck for 2 months with first 2021 lockdown and getting insurance done. no insurance company issues they took claim in 10 mins. It got towed day before lockdown and got a bit lost between towing and panel beaters. Looks mint now though. So drop in to PBMS to say let’s go and lockdown again… WTF. Anyway not much left to buy or select. ECU will Emtron as not much choice with newer canbus car fuel system bits like cradle and flex fuel. Going to add sensor as why not. head gaskets depending on need but fire ring if possible ARP case bolts I’m pretty sure these got ordered but no idea where the ended up. have those spacers for intake to help drop temp need intercooler setup and scoop less bonnet headers well was going low mount but to much time effort so will fall back to twisted setup Maybe new radiator as well since it may run slightly warmer
    3 points
  15. If your exhaust doesn't have scrapes - your doing it wrong 😁
    3 points
  16. As always it's a controversial look that splits people somewhat down the middle, with the majority seemingly disliking it initially but for the most part I quite like it. The front, side and interior are quite nice but the rear end lower plastic piece is a bit weird with the extra depth compared to the rest of the body. Some form of semi functional diffuser on the STI might make it look a bit nicer but I doubt they'll change anything. https://www.google.co.nz/amp/s/www.caranddriver.com/news/amp37281384/2022-subaru-wrx-specs-revealed/
    2 points
  17. Seems about right... it's a risky proposition for the buyer of course.
    2 points
  18. Very good question. I've trying to find the same answer for my fully stock one with 110kkm on the clock. Harley apparently sells them for 3-4k usually for a semi bare timed longblock.
    2 points
  19. Better late than never... Mk7 GTI is a much sportier drive than a 6R. The 6R uses the previous gen (Mk5) motor with cambelt and is much more reliable, many chain drive Mk6 GTI's have suffered from chain tensioner failures - expensive, often fatal. Golfs use a Haldex AWD system, nominal 90/10 torque split to front, a slow reactive system. Subaru's permanent AWD is a superior solution. The 7R is much better but still no match for a GTI with VW's front LSD - like a Haldex operating on the same axle. A GTI Clubsport/Edition 40/40 Years - same car , different name for different markets, or the 7.5 GTI TCR are much better drives and once moving, just as fast or faster than a 7/7.5R.
    2 points
  20. Installed a bunch of bushes and started putting s*** back on the car The car now has three wheels on it! The fourth hub will be put on tomorrow afternoon in anticipation for its move to a new home (pictured below) Also ordered a bunch of random s*** to help things along Tomorrow:
    2 points
  21. I would not count on option 1 existing for long. It’s a moving target. option 2 is an option but it’s a bit of luck as to if it passes. I haven’t looked at in many years. have you called NZTA as a start? then Subaru nz for figures, they may have ones older than 10 years if you are lucky. They may even send you email to use as part of submission. Burden of proof is on you so make sure you have it covered well. do you have the Japanese paperwork for the car? production numbers are worldwide not American ones which are online a lot. you need to supply an article saying it a collectors item not just a review, though review will say it’s a performance model. Depends on how the split the models as well WRX vs STI. You also can’t sell the car for 4 years or use it for work. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/__data/assets/pdf_file/0004/49738/Application-for-SIV-permit.pdf option 3 put a cage in it and then frontal impact doesn’t apply as the airbags etc have to be removed
    2 points
  22. Solved! Ecu was the problem. Carried out some scope tests on the ecu using my oscilloscope and wasn’t getting the correct reading. Swapped one out with a second hand and drives like a dream.
    2 points
  23. Back in a subie! Nice and low km, has some goodies already done. Have springs and shocks headed my way shortly Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
    2 points
  24. Well since I burnt so much money so far I figured that balance is worth it. plus I kind of want 10k rev limit.
    2 points
  25. Thanks for keeping it updated, this is a great reference for anyone who may have this issue in the future
    2 points
  26. Just confirmed with Subaru over the phone, the part was redesigned and reduced in size but still fits
    2 points
  27. To be honest it sounds like you've made a mess of the alarm removal. First place I'd be looking is the door sensing. It sounds like the car thinks the driver's door is open.
    2 points
  28. 2 points
  29. After all the issues I had with the missus vw I still regret not pushing it out of the drive after setting it on fire 🤷🏼‍♂️
    2 points
  30. So after lockdown and a pile more $ I’ll have a spare stock engine. done 135k km but rebuilt 25k km. Rings and bearings done. has PMBS sump, Stock turbo and PBMS down pipe are all HPC extreme coated. ECU retuned to turbo since the coating made a big difference. only issue is it has small rocker cover leak but wasn’t worth doing while in the car. was thinking about swapping it to an older car but think I want a kei car as second car again.
    1 point
  31. Well there is actually a few here in NZ with the Circuit Pack (thats the one with the LSDs etc), you just need to look for the ones with the lightweight 10-spoke wheels like this:
    1 point
  32. Third generation? Surely it's way more than that... how is it different to the current WRX?
    1 point
  33. Still got my wagon - just started waxing it for the summer Poor thing needs a good hard drive, it's hasnt left the garage in 4 months
    1 point
  34. Umm how come the electric unlock buttons on the remote or drivers door don’t work? they aren’t attached to the cables. if they don’t work the cable maybe jammed up tight.
    1 point
  35. Not sure. I remembered that I could see the cable sleeve behind the lock switch so I'm gonna try and slip something through to get the cable(s) free 🤞🏽
    1 point
  36. Part the car out, or buy a $2k wrecker motor and cross your fingers. Converting to anything STI is going to be a very expensive journey.
    1 point
  37. Hey bro same boat can't get some OEM stuff for my service. Luckily it was only 1 thing and fairly minor but they said their suppliers can't get things atm.
    1 point
  38. I've been driving H6 3.0 wangons for many years(owned 3x to date latest SI drive 2007 spec-B) ...well over 200,000kms+ hassle free driving to date over last 14yrs of ownership ... and even though I could afford to Buy a much new car (buying the wife a new Sorento)... I'm thinking about buying another one with as low as Km's as possible ...as I know them well and they do exactly what I want being AWD sweet sounding flat-6 with mods solid 210kw atm on 98 fuel in S+ so heaps of power .. great on fuel I've average around 11lts per 100kms .... great for heading up my local ski fields ...towing the bike trailer going dirk biking ,,,throwing the dog in the Back .... Now I'm thinking about #1 buying a BP 06-08 H6 Si drive leather /heated seats etc .. low as kms .... I see one turning up here in NZ with only 47kms on the clock ....and spending some good coin on making a car that will see me out over the next 20yrs+ as my daily driver (would like older school V8 one day purely as sunday wagon) then from my 07 H6 (thats got 250Kms of hard driving) changing over my Raptor headers X force exhaust , intake mods, towbar ... now I got the cars ECU +TCU tuned by Kido .... not sure if I could just swap the ECUs over or that would mess with other elecs in the cars ...
    1 point
  39. Thanks for the feedback, I've always loved the Hawkeye Sti but was out of reach when I was younger. My first Sti was a bigeye, then managed to save up for the teareye/blobeye which I do still love. However being young and dumb I got into too much trouble with them back in the day and haven't touched one in 10 years now, so its sure a blast from the past for the short time I had a drive with a trade plate on. Being an auto sparky myself I like to think I have a few contacts. Im in Wellington and have had a chat to a couple of car dealers I do work for as well as the business id take it to for certification on the road. None of them have been overly helpful except for the fact the car dealership pointed me to the special interest vehicle option. I hadn't thought about contacting FHI or anybody in Japan directly, so I might give that a go and let you know how I get on. Theres no harm in trying. Cheers
    1 point
  40. Yours will have the spherical bearing ones from stock won't it? Earlier ones that are still rubber are easy enough to hack apart and the hacksaw the sleeve but not 100% sure with these.
    1 point
  41. A few months ago on a road trip in my 2007 Legacy I heard a ticking noise from the engine. I pulled over to figure out what was going on, the ticking noise seemed to change with revs but not directly. I decided it was best to drive the 30 minutes back home - gently. Before getting back the ticking noise had stopped and I noticed the boost gauge firmly stuck in the bottom half. We took another vehicle on the road trip and after a month or so of procratination, I finally pulled the turbo out of the wagon. What I discovered was a twin scroll VF45 apparently with the twin shaft option, with the turbine and compressor flopping around like a d**k in a shirt sleeve. I do not like this configuration. I'm not sure how to proceed with a replacement. I've been looking for a second hand VF45, but haven't had a great deal of luck. The VF44 seems to be more available. My understanding is that the VF44 was largely fitted to autos and has slightly different spooling characteristics. I have a six speed manual (TY856WBEAA) with a EJ20YHFELE (atleast that's what the plate says). A few wreckers have VF44 turbos for around $800. Another option would be either of the TD04HLA-19T or TD04HLA-20T Kinugawa turbos which seem to be around for about $1800. I would imagine that any of these options would require a retune. I'm not sure whether that would need to be up on a dyno or not. Would a replacement VF45 require a retune? Is there someone near Palmy who can retune legacies? I'm also slightly concerned that there might be an issue with the oil supply, I wouldn't want to put in $2k of turbo to blow it up immediately. Any tips on checking oil pressure with a push button start model? Any tips on the replacement in general? I'm not looking for a power boost, I enjoyed having it as my daily driver with enough guts to make open road driving a little more fun. Thanks.
    1 point
  42. There should be no pre load on even factory links. They are the same height on each side so as long as car is level or fully off the ground the bar has zero load. You can put side loading on the links lower rubber mounts if you don’t get the ones that slide along the lower bolt mount and you move spacers around to make them sit vertically below the hole in the swaybar.
    1 point
  43. Big rear swaybar will induce oversteer, they tend to have a whack of body roll till you get them a bit lower, but very capable. Unless they are auto as joker mentioned, then they are like 70/30 fwd biased and will push like a mofugger into corners with low traction.
    1 point
  44. Nice pic! Did you light paint it or it’s a long exposure? Sucks about the motor ;( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  45. My FSTI blocking the road on the weekend. Forester_STI by Tim Rutledge, on Flickr
    1 point
  46. Redline exhaust You get what you pay for. Fitment is average and its loud a.f. Will need a boost controller as its a bellmouthed 3inch so it flows real well
    1 point
  47. If I wanted a Foz, it would be this one.
    1 point


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