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At that point it's not a shift light, it's a bar-graph colour-coded tachometer.

Partsouq is but shipping is ok amayama has a depot here they ship from for fixed costs. amayama have Japan as supplier and also seem to use supplier who is behind partsouq for UAE listed stock. I use both, as do a lot of other owners. Can’t say have had or heard any complaints.

haha & yep! lol (in general) Mates a Cert guy & some of the stuff he puts up in his stories really scares me (cars turn up for cert checks with no gas / bald tyres and loose / wrong wheel nuts is only the start eh knocking steering arms on exhausts (hot rods) seats and often even Belts held in by hopes & dreams (bolts but no nuts) hand tight nylox, yeah hand tight, not even engaged...

By this logic you should have to go for a cert if you take your wheels off or put new brake pads in. Which the LVVTA once actually insinuated in a particularly dented Facebook post about brake rotors needing to be certed in case you installed the wrong size ones (???). Honestly they do my f***ing head in and I hope they read this, yes without them it would be very very hard (actually I don't know, would it?) to modify cars and they provide a framework for us to do that, but some times it's completely cooked. Literally from the NZ Car Construction Manual: And it's just bulls***, over the years they've had some spectacularly useless rules that have taken years to peel back and cost modifiers thousands of dollars to comply with stupid requirements that, if someone engaged their brain for about 20 minutes, wouldn't have made it past the draft stage. When was the last time you heard of a driveshaft hoop that did f*** all on a modified JDM car with less than about 800hp? The entire organisation was built around the concept of bearded hotrodders (who are wonderful, btw) stick welding bits of car together in their shed, not the "modern" version of car modding which is basically Lego except larger, dirtier, and generally undertaken by people with lower IQs. EDIT: Apologies OP for derailing your thread. I guess the sparknotes is "be prepared for some bizarre obscure cert requirement".

Standard example of one of the completely dented areas of the LVV standards. If you use all OEM parts from an identical but manual vehicle it should be a VIRM issue not a cert one. If a compatible manual ECU exists I'd go looking for one. Will make your conversion much less likely to throw a million different error codes.

Thanks Joker, much appreciated!

made some good progress. Can set custom rpm redline, flashing options, set brightness options etc all via webpage. Even added a light sensor so it dims based on light level. Still have plenty of work left but better than most options I’ve seen to buy. Found buttons with Icons to order for turning display on and off, as well as enable wifi web page. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006666132955.html

@Joker No-ones been able to explain the funky backwards lines but I think you can see the VOD there on the PSI chart. The plot X axis is road speed and the line from data logged over time plotted in time order, so the run started at 90kph then dipped back to 85kph likely caused by operator error, you can rule out car if you have other good plots. -Wheelspin from not being strapped down well. 1 strap and not at steep angle rushed at dyno day. Or too much power applied too quickly. -starting run and not giving it more gas so dyno load drags speed down.

Yeah I started looking at custom ones a month ago because of exactly the conclusion you came to. It’s why I posted the canbus topic. Old cars rpm reading is just counting pulses and dividing that based on the number of cylinders. Eg 2 ignition events per revolution for a 4 cylinder. Every cheap micro controller can either count pulses or the time between them so it isn’t complicated. Newer cars the ecu runs multi coil and the rpm signal is over canbus so you have to read the canbus messages and decode them. In some cases they do have a rom pulse from the dash cluster, but if you start opening dash clusters it raises flags if you ever want to verify the odometer. Over the weekend I think I have some basic canbus reading working but before I can test I need some more parts to look after the power and now waiting on an order for that.

Can checked has them as part of their small can gauge or a module individually. Could probably just configure it to flash a section of the screen different colours as you approach the shift point too as another alternative.

Outside of the track/strip, meh. And friends don't let friends buy monster tachos.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005952894041.html 3.75” one for 27 +gst shipped. for Ali add things to cart, then there are 3 small icons next to item, the first is find similar, then add to Wishlist, and remove from cart. the find similar works pretty well. Im looking at the F1 style ones with a row of LEDs that change colour until set point and then flash the whole bar.

This is one of the earliest Dyno Sheets of my TT (the 1998 BG5c) = 160kw bonus actual video of the Rolling Road setup & run on a Digital Camera with no Mic October 2004 not long after I traded in the 1990 BC GT for it Sorry no RPM's but a notable dip in power / torque : No-ones been able to explain the funky backwards lines but I think you can see the VOD there on the PSI chart 2007 Hub-dyno Petone I call it 180 kw WITH Boost Spike : split 4mm or 6mm hoses on the top of the intake

terrible edit but a over view of the black box

Haha sorry um Richie sautell revD Subaru black box description I'll add a link after work if you can't find it

that's a little low in the rev range but "could" be what we call the Valley of Death is the changeover point between Single small Primary and Parallel Twin turbo mode (both) I'll see if I can find a Dyno graph of my BG5c in the garage thread or archives photo bucket has eaten the images (but I know I have them @ work so please wait 10-12 hours hah

Downpipe and tune is still best value upgrade though it costs more every year. Stock 2L cars are only really about 185kw at the wheels, with down pipe and tune can hit 220kw at the wheels. But that’s just peak power which isn’t where the big gains are. What you want is more area under the line on the dyno graph. Useable power is consistent and found in the mid range. Stock turbo won’t put out much more than a few extra psi at the redline so up there there is only a little gain up there. What it can push 5-7psi more or about 23psi by 4K which is a 30-40% gain. Turbo comes on a little earlier and ramps up way quicker. That’s where the push you back in your seat comes from. Look at the power on some dyno graphs posted on here or other forum that have stock and tuned. In some it’s 45kw in the 4.5k range. But likely it’s 35kw from 4.5k all the way to 8k If you add a bigger intercooler you may get more power, but what it mainly gives you is more time at those dyno numbers. Normally after slower twisting roads at high boost in lower gears the intake temps rise and it won’t make the same power as on the dyno. Or cheaper option is water spray kit.

It’s generally worth getting a tune done just to get away from the factory one which is very emissions dependent so can be far from great on most Subaru’s. Not sure on VA’s but some of the Legacy’s could get noticeably better economy for cruising which helps a bunch for long trips An aftermarket intake and downpipe along with a tune will really wake it up and even with the on paper figure being not that much higher it can be way nicer to drive. The SI Drive stuff can usually be optimised a bit too so it acts more like separate maps rather than just pedal feel.

Okay well years later, I converted the bg5 to revD ECU and dash and engine/gearbox and now way better setup than the ej20R setup with the annoying orange label maf that breaks solder joints all the time, looking for A4SH701H definitions , as for the ej206 I fixed that by understanding that if closed loop fueling is up the s*** it will affect the open loop so replaced narrow band sensor with a genuine one and a whole different car

I made a video on YouTube on how the black box works to help with boost issues

Hi no not easy to remove without taking intake off and , I'm sure the regulator is a part of the fuel rail if I remember correctly , pink injectors are easier to remove than the side feed yellow ones to get fuel rail off too Don't tear primary turbo intake hose when taking intake off ,they are brittle after a few heat cycles , I replaced mine with a silicone replica type

When running from battery there is no issue since nothing is grounded. Same applies to running from power banks. TLDR; keep them away from car electronics when powered from the wall. Wires etc are ok to solder if not connected, eg making a loom disconnected from the car. Anything with integrated circuits, chips will likely suffer some damage. Seems this is well known in electronic circles but not communicated widely outside. When powered from wall socket they have floating ground which while super low amperage can be in the 40-70v range between tip and you skin. You won’t feel or notice this at all. Wearing a grounding strap actually make it’s worse as then all that voltage will have somewhere to go. The irons are built correctly and connect the tip to usb shielding, it’s a power supply issue. The problem comes from the fact modern USB or DC power adaptors do not ground the shielding of the cable that the iron needs to discharge the static ESD. Eg Apple used to ground there adaptors but newer usb-c ones some are some aren’t. Seems the USB standard does not specify which end should be grounded as grounding both ends and having more than one thing plugged in can cause more issues. There are fixes I won’t link to as playing with wall plugs even if just plugging into the earth terminal needs some understanding. Many irons now come with special grounding wires to plug into the wall so if you have this then you should be ok.

that's 40 years or older aka "Vintage" (and COf's for Private Motorhomes if that's your bag) MSM info : https://www.1news.co.nz/2025/02/25/consultation-opens-on-warrant-of-fitness-cof-change-for-some-vehicles/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR3Szqxw4KT2XVMIvXJUh2Cs7tsIVh-3EpI3l_ix0xbHSWN89Q6rOZV5jqE_aem_gu1iRxVqPzdJAtZSxDm82Q Important direct link to the NZTA feedback form to have your say : https://www.nzta.govt.nz/about-us/public-consultation-hub/current-consultations/land-transport-rule-vehicle-standards-compliance-amendment-2025-consultation/ "only" 4 more years to wait for OG BC Legacy's and 11 for my GeX! Lol cant do it twice from the 'same' device 8(

Yes that’s insurance company stats, it’s why classic cover has lower premiums. Insurance runs on stats, it’s how they make money. But the reason for the stat maybe based on less km traveled per year so at risk less for a great amount of time. Also driver is likely not a better driver in other cars, is more aware of the current cars value or sentimental value so treats it different. Eg takes more time and care to park it away from danger. The reason isn’t important for insurance to make money. As long as the statistics hold they win. Only WOF issue I have are when they don’t understand cert plates or what they can and can’t fail you on with Motorsport authority card. Been failed for certified suspension, no airbag with full cage, harnesses, oh and washer fluid being low.

the stats I've heard quoted (sorry cannot cite) show classics are involved in accidents less than any other category & all the "Old" cars I own fail on aprox every 18months if not a longer period of happy motoring in between (Avenger went 10k without drama 2016 > 2019

Agree that if your car's a bit ropey/on the decline it should get a 6 month recheck, not sure about some of your criteria though... I don't think my STI has had a oil change sticker on it, ever. Fundamentally this change is targeted at owners of proper classics that get loving care and driven 2000km a year, not some 80s s***box that is somehow still on the road. Unfortunately virtually all old Legacys and Imprezas fall into the latter category.

I’ve always wondered why it’s not a dynamic system. Get longer time eg 12 months if… is overall tidy, and somewhat clean. no rust areas starting Fluid leaks brakes are past a high enough level hasn’t had crash repairs done. Gets WOF after repair but for 6 months, then back to 12. Does less than 15,000km per year. gets 6 months over 15,000km car fill with litter and junk No Oil change sticker service light interval warning etc. Could have a 18 or 24 month for under 5,000km. Or pro active maintenance. Clear the cookies for that site, or use private browser session.

Some of this is word of mouth others is personal experience. the good EFR turbos spool very fast and make boost low down. The 7163 is close to a stock 48/49 twin scroll turbo but just keep going to 40psi. They make good power and efficient so top mount is a viable option to 450whp. Bigger frame B2 make huge power and still have impressive spool. there are some hybrid Gama-Ti without the small inlet as options but they are not as good as the efr with cover swap. the bad The limited inlet side is a real problem. You need an anti surge cover SX or they choke. They are an OEM or OEM replacement turbo so while they can put out big boost in shipped form they must have the built in recirculating valve or they choke even faster. Don’t fit a blanking plate and run external BOV. they can’t sustain 15 degrees angle even though that’s the spec. Even 10 degrees can leak. the ugly You can’t rebuild them as there are no parts. Parts are back ordered as far back as 2019. Apparently this was as they started to move production to China in 2019 and got caught up in the pandemic so lost a lot of production time. Even now 5 years later some parts are up to 18 months back order. They like to leak oil. This is due to the lack of counter rotating grooves to push oil back. But that are also sensitive to pressure either in oil feed or crank case. Once they have leaked they seem to leak forever. Make sure you put a OPR like turbosmart inline with them from the first start. There are quite a few secondhand units floating around that leak but you can’t tell until they are running. They won’t have shaft play and can look clean, or have been cleaned. prices have almost doubled since release so the reviews for the price point no longer stand. Factoring in $700 for a new cover they are big money.

Can’t answer that but what’s your cars under carpet sound deadening like? Some models have thicker foam or felt that you can trim out to gain 1-3cm clearance Thickness depends on model trim Eg higher spec models can be thicker legacy maybe thicker than Impreza. And newer car have more thickness or density.

https://legacypic.uk/transmission/search.php?type=tr690gbdca says matching ratios with what you listed and also another model. according to the site above the 9ca is listed against 2014 models all with FA not EJ engines? are the bell housing and bolt pattern the same, you may need to get measurements to confirm. Can always ring Subaru dealer and ask what supersedes your current gear box.

Alistair will build any motor for you... definitely not just race motors.

Hi all, I have a 2012 Legacy DIT with a snapped CVT chain. The transmission in it is a TR690GBDCA. I've found 2014 WRX wreck with a TR690GB9CA. Any one know if these can be swapped? The legacy transmission is somewhat rare so needle in a haystack trying to match that up. Transmissions look identical in side by side photos, but perhaps there's some internals different. Drive ratios are identical Other option is rebuild, but want to close this loop first. Thanks.