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  1. cars been in dirty 'rally' mode for few months now due to auckland water ban (that's my excuse and i'm sticking with it ) , took it slow and did a full simple detail by hand, feeling out and taking notes of areas for paint correction later. vacuum, interior clean with soapy water on leather bits , wipe down rest. wash/dry , meguiars ultimate polish 1 pass, meguiars ultimate wax, rainx glass cleaner, rain x water repellant on glass. silicone to black out the black stuff and around the tyres. ran out of wheel cleaner so warm dish soap and some elbow grease like good old days lol. bas
    4 points
  2. A well overdue and well deserved wash, polish, ceramic coat and trim detail.
    4 points
  3. It is almost never financially viable to do any swap that ends up with something that the factory actually built in the first place. Especially if you can't do all of the work yourself.
    3 points
  4. My mind is melting at the thought of buying a manual donor car to manual swap an automatic, when presumably you could just... ya know... drive the manual donor car.
    3 points
  5. Got the S401 tuned and got 260kw atw on 8psi.
    3 points
  6. Hi all We have just updated the forum software and are in the process of moving our domain hosting so you may experience some issues connecting over the next 24hrs. Please post any issues you are having below and we will work on them and update this list: Mobile notifications and profile missing Last updated: 21-JAN-21 See post below for update notes Cheers!
    2 points
  7. Well, this has to be potentially one of the most frustrating weekends I've had with Subarus in a VERY long time. warning. LONG read. tl;dr LOTS of things don't go my way. Things broke that shouldn't have broke. I consider insurance fraud. I fixed it after putting in WAY too many stressful hours. I'm definitely not selling it now because it owes me WAY too much money. Also, @SAS Richard, thank you for the help on identifying the issue from over 1200km away Man knows so much about Subarus it's not funny. Kinda is, comical but guru
    2 points
  8. Solved, ty. Was a bolt misalignment issue so the connections between the pipes didnt sit flush causing a leak
    2 points
  9. Thank you for all the response, you all are right. much appreciated for all the suggestion. cheers.
    2 points
  10. The special part is that they are de-tuned to be slower than the manual STi and that they have an especially boring auto transmission with crappy diffs. 🤦🏻‍♂️ @nihell I know you are really into this idea mate but just sell it and buy the manual STi hatch. I went through the same problem with my old wrx wagon, I really wanted a 6 speed but after a bunch of looking and thinking I just sold my wrx wagon to buy an STi wagon. I swapped all my suspension parts into the new car and I’ve never looked back.
    2 points
  11. Changed out my Legacy rear boot gas struts. They work just like new again
    2 points
  12. I'm happy to lend a hand and see what I can do. It's been a few years but used to manage some forums and web hosting a while back.
    2 points
  13. How much to whip one of these up for the desk at work? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2425465
    2 points
  14. The turbo can be rebuilt. or buy a new Core CHRA TF035HM-14T
    2 points
  15. If you put the front of the car on stands and turn each wheel in turn... while holding the other still... you might be able to hear very clearly where the clicking is coming from.
    2 points
  16. Not sure on the older STI’s setup but 4th gen Legacy’s would often get a click similar to that which was the viscous centre diff. It would be much worse doing tight turns and once warmed up.
    2 points
  17. if it's never going to be launched etc, I reckon the oem Exedy will be fine.
    2 points
  18. Get a Ford Ranger. And the 300,000 km Legacy might be really good or completely crap depending on how well it's been maintained. Could be an extremely expensive car to keep on the road.
    2 points
  19. That little metal tab is a brake pad wear indicator, the only function it serves is to make a squealing noise when the pads are getting low. They are not necessary for the function of the pads. Some brands/models have the indicator on 1,2 or all 4 of the pads in a set but it doesn't really matter. The pad with the clip tends to go on the inner brake pad on a sliding caliper since it usually wears marginally faster. Provided the calipers are performing correctly all 4 pads will wear at the same rate and it won't matter that only 1 pad has the indicator.
    2 points
  20. 2 points
  21. https://www.facebook.com/groups/140180922814491/permalink/1852308468268386/?sale_post_id=1852308468268386 Just do it 😉 But seriously, cheaper to do it right the first time than spend $1k on a Chinese turbo and tune then upgrade and tune again
    2 points
  22. anyone else interested in joining the 'help team' or learning?
    1 point
  23. awesome : Have put it to the 'ADMIN' team to confirm but I don't see any objections as yet sorry to hear that!
    1 point
  24. Add a roof rack and carry a full set of spares 😁 Me fail - just noticed the date 😝
    1 point
  25. I think you should call the LVVTA head office and choose the tech option. The info they give you is about the best you’ll get. they are also aware of any changes coming up that make screw you over if you don’t complete things by a set date. getting a cert is a massive range from simple to very complex. I’ve had certain for different things and some are drive in drive out. Others are months of calls and paperwork. But they all go well if you start with a call to the source. Or I’ve hit them up at car show when they have a stand.
    1 point
  26. Hi sir, thanks for the detailed response. Like i said its just a matter of deciding factor as per your opinion, that gives me like yep maybe just give up and yes i do know about the LVV cert that needed to be done and yes i do know it will be costly im Just looking here in NZ if theres an actual person which i heard there is one. I’ve seen one converted in malaysia which has the same spec and apparently having an aftermarket ecu will definetly make it more smoother. thank you for that. Hi sir, thanks for the info i do have the feeling that it will always comes down to that
    1 point
  27. Mate, if workshops won’t take your money, why are you still trying? They are say it’s not worth the profit of doing it for them. Let alone the base cost. ring the LVVTA and see what they want these days as well. it used to be easy to do with no cert but as soon as you have traction control etc it’s all safety related and so all likely to require recert. I’ve converted other cars but wouldn’t even bother with newer ones as it’s a pain to get all the electrical s*** working and having seen there are actually 3 or more varieties of the GR v11. My one predates the wiring m
    1 point
  28. (here's the Partsouq thread : member here have known and used them since at least 2014 etc
    1 point
  29. Hey folks. I currently drive a 2.0i subaru legacy 2007 b sport sedan. I enjoy it but find myself constantly wanting for just a bit more power. I haven't owned a manual before but I can drive okay, would like to improve and hopefully will drive some of my mates cars before I get my own, but I'm sure it'll be okay. I also find myself wanting more space and feel that a wagon will be most suited to my needs. Due to the above I find myself wanting a manual legacy (could be convinced to go outback) wagon and tossing up between the 2.0Gt and the 3.0r Price range is flexible as I don
    1 point
  30. If you want the purist's driving experience, then stop looking at big fat Legacy wagons. Keep your current car and buy something really small and cheap you can throw around a bit while changing gears to your heart's delight. A s****y old mx5 or something maybe.
    1 point
  31. I’m trying not to buy one as well. now they have carbon fibre and glass thread filament it’s tempting. also there are some slicer programs that can make print not 2D layered but real 3D but it’s still very printer dependent and not user friendly. wait until you find out things like 3D camera can be scanners to get rough models. Like Xbox connect etc for low cost.
    1 point
  32. the design stage is the tricky part to get my head around, even with 20+ years CNC / CAD experience, another dimension is doing my brain in, even though I know what I want to achieve TinkerCAD training is helping
    1 point
  33. There’s a whole thread on legacygt.com where people have made random 3D printed bits. I imagine if you can get gauge holders sorted for the vents and centre cubby for the 4th gen Legacy’s you’ll make a few bucks for sure. The only other guy I know of making them 3D printed style currently is pretty rough so if you could improve on that there is a heap of potential. He’s gone with a modular approach where you clip more pods on which doesn't look all that tidy
    1 point
  34. Upholsterer?? Can't say I've ever considered sourcing some from an upholsterer. I just buy 10+ of every style my car needs from partsouq at next to nothing and slowly burn through them as they get wrecked upon removal.
    1 point
  35. Dunno if flow is exactly the same but they are the same physically.
    1 point
  36. Done quite often in the GC8s for rally, bolts right up, but you'll need to do a harness merge, or aftermarket ECU to run it.
    1 point
  37. Could be the release bearing, Is it a push or pull type clutch? Once it's warm, it doesn't do it?
    1 point
  38. The good news is NPD is expanding to the North island with its 100 Octane.. https://www.npd.co.nz/npd-announces-north-island-expansion-plans/
    1 point
  39. Haven't driven it much at all this year so these are a bit old but will throw them in the ring. Courtesy of friends more talented than me. Really need to get more rolling shots but its not particularly easy.
    1 point
  40. Installed my blitz boost gauge today with a zero sports holder very pleased with how it looks! Plus car is doing 14psi which is perfect
    1 point
  41. Update!!! I’ve managed to track down the issues! Well multiple issues. The fix in the end was resetting the ECU after ensuring that the car was running the correct boost. It was hitting 14 psi which I suspect was causing knock, this was due to some race lab EEPROM. Then letting the car learn again on the stock map. you can really feel the more aggressive timing after the ECU learn and reset process. It now pulls harder throughout the rev range and doesn’t fall flat at high RPM.
    1 point
  42. couple of quick questions.. Does it do this when the motor is cold? Does it get worse as the engine warms up?
    1 point
  43. Don't have any of the WRX this time, and havent gone to the south island yet, so only have these from one trip.
    1 point
  44. Yeah the JDM bugeye wrx came in either an ‘NA’ or ‘NB’ The NA was a non turbo wrx similar to the srx of the gc8 era. As boon said it had better seats, wrx struts and maybe a couple other upgrades but yeah the non turbo bonnet with wrx badging was a factory thing. Edit: http://a15ff11300g.sakura.ne.jp/catalogue/GD.GGimpreza/2000.8 new age impreza WRX/2000.8 new age impreza WRX.html
    1 point
  45. Thanks for the update Clint. I have been wanting to check out prices for stuff for a few days now! For those who don't know, Partsouq sell genuine Subaru parts (and many other OEMS) at incredibly low prices (depending on the item) All you do is search with the part number you want and they'll probably have it.
    1 point
  46. If you want to enable the alarm horn on a JDM BL5: 1. Make sure all passenger doors and the boot are closed. 2. Hop into the driver's seat and close the door. 3. Put the key into the ignition and change it from 'Accessory' to 'On' three times within ten seconds (Acc>On>Acc>On>Acc>On). Leave it on On. 4. Immediately open the driver's door then close it. 5. The status of the security system is shown on the trip meter. Security alarm: ON or Security alarm: OFF (handily this is one of the few configuration items that's all in English). To turn it on (if it's off) push the drive
    1 point
  47. 08 GT SpecB here. I never use "I" drive myself. I will use it if someone that isn't me is driving the car though, especially if they're not used to more powerful cars (ie my gf/family). For anyone curious here are the requested torque maps for the three SI drive modes:
    1 point