Munkvy

Or an alternative - keep the BE5 as your daily and pick up a cheap Version 3/4 STi RA as well. That way you have your sensible car that is also quick when needed without the compromises and have the RA for when you feel like going quicker and isnt loaded with all the unnecessary extras you dont need in a non-daily driver.

Yep thats the one. Nothing as tidy as yours, but then I wouldnt want to rape a nice RS on gravel

That was always the plan - however I have now caged the car and am nearly finished setting it up for rallying/rallysprints. So Im a bit worried about when I find a bank and f*ck the front - as then I can say bye bye to the water cooler radiator or fmic. Secondly an air to air then means I have less stuff to squash against the radiator, Ive looked under alot of other rally car bonnets and air to air top mount is a pretty common trend in anything Subaru. Ohh and theres also the reliability factor - FMIC has lots of hoses to have fail and water cooler has too many components that can break. So in my opinion for rallying/rallysprints the air to air is best suited. However for any other scenario involving less than 250kw I would personally choose water cooler. All my own opinions of course - Im no expert!

Yep its down on power compared to any STi - runs a consistent 98mph at the drags, so thats roughly 130 to 140kw at the wheels at a guess? However, all it needs is to run 20psi with an aftermarket ECU and injectors and it would move reasonably well.

Fair call. I have to say it was quite different in the Skyline, it had stock suspension - so the driving style is rather different, you rely on tyre grip and hope that its not gonna swap ends Whereas it sounds like your cars more like mine - suspension shows up any deficiency in the rest of the setup

NS1 or NS2? The NS1 is shite, but the NS2 is a hell of alot better. And what size did you have them in? I used them on a Skyline in 205/50/15 and they were reasonable. As I said - a budget tyre, so you cant expect everything from them - but they hung on suprisingly well.

Im running a TD05 on my RS Legacy - which is basically the same as an early WRX as far as setup goes - ie I have an air-air WRX intercooler and 380cc grey injectors. I also have a 3" exhaust from turbo back, chipped ecu and a Walbro fuel pump. Goes ok, dont run more than 1 bar or it will detonate. Other than that, its not really been an issue.

I asked the LTNZ about this a while ago - according to their technical department you just need to get the car noted as a 2 seater when you go for your next WOF. The LTNZ apparently cant do it over the phone for you or at the Post Office, has to be done by the WOF guy - presumably so he can make sure what you have done is safe - ie you havent taken front door cards off. However I have owned 3 cars now with stripped interiors and been stopped by cops before and they have never complained about it. The proper solution of course is to put a cage in there - you know you want to

T1R I rate on a heavier car like a Subaru. Pretty good value for money although not that long lasting. Im currently using Yokohama A Drive R1 and it doesnt have the grip of the T1R - but also not the price tag and very progressive and easy to control when you run out of grip This is in 215/45/17 on my BG5. Nankang NS2 is also a very good value for money tyre - again not the grip and price of the T1R, but a good in between priced tyre. Federal 535 is another tyre that fits the same category. However I only used it on a lighter car so may not be as good on a Subaru? Bridgestone MY01 is one I would suggest avoiding - understeer city on my BC5.

+1 i find it very good oil!! +2 Ive found http://www.partsquipdirect.com/ a great place to buy it from One of our members down here in Wellington works for Armstrong - Im not sure how much of a discount he can do, but I know it costs me less than $70 including filter for my BC5 or BG5.

He is referring to using third gear and that causing you to loose your license... as third equals about 140km/hr at 7500rpm. And 40km/hr over speed limit of 100km/hr in NZ is loss of license material

Elf Competition SM 10w40. As prescribed by STi Japan. Ohh and used by a number of cars in the Production Racing series here. Can be purchased via Armstrong Subaru.

R34 Z Tune RS6 Avant 22B Maserati 3200 GT, Ghibli II or Shamal

For your purposes arent you gonna need a fair bit larger turbo? As a VF10 is about the smallest turbo you can find on a single turbo EJ....

Mobil is also a form of E10 down these ways. I think I remember hearing that it was also being rolled out round the rest of the country progressively...? I too am in the believers camp when it comes to biofuel. I have run it in both my Legacys and had at least equal performance, the RS seemed to run a little better at Manfield on the weekend using the Gull Force 10 compared to the BP 98 I put in it later in the day. However that may well be just a mind trick, I have no hard data either way.

I dont agree with that at all. I have a 3 puck clutch in my RS (which if you know anything about clutches - you will know is rather unpleasant on the drivetrain) and am using a Ver 3 non-STI RA box, I have yet to break anything driveline related. Thats after 5 full days worth of drag racing (Masterton and Laws Rd), as well as countless launches at autocrosses and other events, as well as testing settings out. Ive litterally given the car over 100 launches. Some have bogged, some have spun up two or four wheels. NO ISSUES. As long as you treat your drivetrain with respect, you shouldnt break things. If your going to launch, slip the clutch a little at the bite point so that you dont completely shock the drivetrain. When you hook second, dont flat shift. And in my opinion - launch with more revs than you need, to make sure you loose traction or eat clutch - rather than the more expensive option of hurting your gearbox. I may not be the greatest expert, but I can talk from personal experience when I say the above. Treat your car sensibly and launch properly and you shouldnt have problems. PS - Raydeo, this isnt an attack on you, Im just trying to make sure that people understand that Subarus dont generally have glass gearboxes - its the knucklehead behind the wheel thats the problem!

A twin and a single turbo legacy for me.

Car: 1994 BC5 RS Mods: Coilovers, TD05, exhaust, pod, ECU, RA Gearbox, semi slicks and rally tyres depending on the occasion. And a rollcage. Things u like: Grip when using semis. Going sideways in third gear despite that grip. What you dislike: The constant battle to keep it running reliably. The never ending drama that is power steering. Why you brought it: Came up for the right price at the right time and had the basic mods done. Ohh and it would stop me raping the GTB. What your future plans are: Add codrivers seat, LSD front diff, decent boost controller, finish preparing it for gravel and then do some gravel sprints and maybe a regional rally or two (eventually). Car: 98 BG5 GTB in yellow Mods: Zerosports intake, cusco master cylinder brace, STi struts, tints, some stickier tyres and better brakes. Things u like: The fact its quiet, especially after I get out of the other car and into it. 3rd gear 90km/hr, overtaking - all TT owners know what thats about The fact that I did the whole of Targa in it last year (and used nearly $1000 of fuel!) without a single problem. What you dislike: The fact the engine ate my wallet. Why you brought it: Wanted to get something sensible as a daily that I wouldnt thrash. Yeah, that didnt happen - one rebuild later and 4 sets of shocks and I have a thrash car again so that I will leave it alone. What your future plans are: Quiet but better flowing exhaust, gearbox rebuild, some tougher suspension that doesnt keep dying.

Pros - easier to pick up hoes (if thats your thing) as you can say your a mad drif0r au. Cons - sh*t breaks more easily, diffs, cvs, axles even. Ohh and of course the tyre bill. Then theres the handling - you wont want to drive in the wet anymore....

Car: 98 BG5 GTB Suspension: Standard Mags: Standard wheels diamater: Standard Wheels width: Standard Offset: Standard Tyres spec: 215/45/17 ie standard size did you have to roll the gaurds?: n Car: 94 (facelift) BC5 RS Suspension: Tein coilovers Mags: Depends on the event type - 16" Work wheels, 15" factory wheels, other 15s wheels diamater: 16 or 15" Wheels width: 6.5" or less Offset: ??? Tyres spec: 195/60/15 road tyres, 205/50/16 Semi slicks, 205/65/15 Rally tyres did you have to roll the gaurds?: No, but get some guard rub on rally tyres on full lock.

Im a GTB owner and I have to say I think your best option if you have a problem with the TT is to get rid of the car. If it is something that you dont like, all the fixes mentioned are bandaids only and add more expense to the car without increasing its resale value. Particularly the single conversion. Its a great way to get more power, however its still in a heavy chassis and will most likely reduce the value of the car to the average joe, especially if you do it in your back yard and have no receipts for the work! You are better off upgrading to a WRX (which wont have as much top end power compared to a B4) or ideally an STi. As lets face it, these days a later model GC8 is getting fairly cheap and a Version 7 STi is dirt cheap now. However I should quantify: You should look at what you want from a car - are you after something practical with a bit of go? If so, a GTB/B4 is probably fine. However if you want something that you can give a hard time on a regular basis and expect it to perform well - you are much better off upgrading to an STi. They are a better car in every way if you are after a performance car. They are even more fuel economic from memory! And yes I know this is only my opinion, but it comes from owning one for over 2 years and spending a god awful amount of money repairing it as a result of the fact these cars are not made to be abused the same as a GC8 etc.

One thing I would add for Gen 1s in particular is Power steering. Make sure theres no leaks in the reservoir and also in the lines, as this is quite a common problem. For all Legacys - make sure the suspensions not fooked. Check for leaking shocks and take it over a bit of bumpy road and see how it handles, any crashing about is not a good sign. In particular I have noticed GT/GTBs in the rear have a tendancy to kill the shocks - so make sure they are ok. A good way to check is to simply ride in the back of it and pay attention to how it feels. Furthermore, how does it feel on gear shift? (This applies to all Subarus) - is there any shock or shudder on gear change? Particularly a fast one. As this is a good sign that some of the drivetrain bushes/mounts maybe getting tired.

Well, this is my Subbie ownership. I started with this: Then broke it, so got this: However, I found it kept doing this: and this: So I decided to be kinder and now only use it as my daily. And instead I got this: and now do this: Update, it now has this (currently unpainted until homologation is done):

I would recommend giving your nearest subaru dealer a call to be sure on that one. As they can give you the best advice. I know for my Legacys they recommend CASTROL SYNTRAX 75W-90 for the gearbox and diff. But thats for a much older car.