Munkvy

**** that's a long time ago now! Sadly none of those WRC drivers are competing any more either! I rolled that Legacy the following year, so that was probably the last gravel rally I broke it at.

What is the brake setup you have? Ie 2 pot/4 pot/Brembo? And what has failed you so far in the brakes? I don't know anything about your car sorry, so no idea of that. I would suggest if you are going to spend that sorta money on rotors you may want to consider brake pads in the same league? HPS Plus are a bottom of the range pad compared to those rather serios rotors! And I found braided lines a minor improvement in pedal feel, but at least you then know you have new lines, not potentially old/weak factory lines.

Personally I will be racing up Mt Vic that day. More my sorta thing!

There is plenty of pad left there... Looks more like it crumbled from heat, hence coming off the backing plate? Did you warm up and cool them down on each run?

Are you on semi's or road tyres and what sort of times were you doing at Manfeild on these? I put the same type of pads in my brothers Evo 5, which has big Brembo thingys and they did work well, for a road pad.

E30 is a good cheap way to get a RWD, but an LSD is expensive, best to just lock the diff and learn some car control. I do autocrosses in mine (E30 325) with a locked diff and generally make it into the top ten. And parts are mostly cheap if you hit stuff, E36 is a bit more expensive and parts are a little pricier. But E36 is definitely a faster car as long as you aren't bothered by the extra weight. But Loren is right. A WRX is faster once you get brave and stop caring about breaking it, then it will slide just as well as a lot of RWDs. And again, parts are dirt cheap and you can add power very cheaply. Only downside is you have to have a few spare parts around as they will break a bit with abuse.

I thought special interest only applied to low volume, specialist cars? So a variation of a common car may not qualify?

I spent a week down in the South Island on Targa in the car and the paint peeled off the front edge of the right rear door, mainly from me rubbing up against it as I climbed out of the car between stages. So any area that has high wear on it like that and door handles it will peel from over time. But it is also very easy to touch up and you don't have to blend it, just put another coat on and it seals it up nicely. I would definitely say try it out on a panel and see what you think.

Yup, it's a hunk of junk. But hopefully it will drive right this time, as apparently my mate who was driving it last time didn't have much luck with it.

I did my rally car: https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10304792_10152361284750933_3896402578076281505_n.jpg?oh=c2c972ef3682fe4cb9414207858c49cf&oe=55631785 It's a pain in the arse to maintain, as it peels with too much touching and it is easily damaged with oil/petrol too... It however is a ****load cheaper than painting a car properly... If you don't really care about your car/image, then try it. Or just buy one can and paint one panel to see. It does peel right off, but that's also it's downside, it peels right off! Ps, took about 15 cans to do the car properly. Vivian

Assuming you are going to the Playday, I will be at that in the dodgy matte green WRX...

Is this one of the Silverdale radiators? I got one recently and it doesn't quite fit properly on the passenger side, hits the chassis...

I don't both with OEM, I went to Unleashed Automotive in lower hutt and got them to order a kit in for me which was every coolant hose. Wasn't overly expensive either from memory.

That looks pretty cool, whats the setup you are running for the pc?

Yeah i was paying about the same including shipping from Auckland for the E30, but that's just piddly 15s, not sure what 17s would be worth. I wouldn't say the Federals are the best, but as a compromise between grip and life they have done well so far. I think I have only done 2 track days on them though. And it would be fair to say that I am not overly kind to tyres.

What are the Zetums worth? I have been using Federal 595 Evos on my E30 and they are very consistent and stable on the limit of grip. And have worn well given I have a locked diff. They are also very cheap.

I might come for a skid.

Drove the car back to Chch from Targa South Island earlier in the week, then trailer back to Wellington. Nice to be able to drive it home for a change!

DBA do a 2 piece, alloy hat rotor for the Brembos. Don't expect change from 1k for a pair... But a little cheaper to replace disks later on as you don't need the alloy hat again. But still not cheap compared to $160+GST for a pair of factory rotors.

Finally drove the rally car (well actually several times since having G4 Xtreme+ installed). Half tuned due to a fuel issue, which is now sorted. So currently plastidipping panels. I miss driving rally cars in peak hour traffic!

Nice, thanks for going to the effort of documenting it for other people. FYI, I ended up buying my own press as they are so cheap on TM these days. Comes in handy for all sorts of random little things!

Taupo Track 1 - 1.52.9 - Mahindra 3hr Endurance race - 5/7/14 Hampton Downs - 1.21 flat - Mahindra 6hr Endurance race - 26/7/14 Both in a non turbo, FWD, 120wkw Mazda Astina.

I bought a cheap E30 325i and use it for sprints, as I can't afford to run the rally car all the time at events. It has now ended up as my daily too. I typically do events 2 times a month in it, from autocrosses, sprints, hillclimbs; I even did a round of the Winter Race Series at Manfield in it. Good cheaper alternative and still really good fun. It owes me a bit, but if I wrote it off it's not a biggy compared to destroying my GC8 rally car (not that I haven't already bent the GC8 a bit anyway!). Slow/cheaper cars are better anyway, teaches you much more about pushing the limits of yourself and traction compared to a fast car. I also love beating the odd quicker car in it! I would highly recommend this path if you want to learn about how to drive faster, vs just getting to drive at higher than normal road speeds.

Assuming the ECU is going into a WRX they do a G4 plugin, which is better than an Atom and not that much more expensive. Means you can also in theory revert to a standard ECU without too much difficulty later on if you wanted to on sell the car. I found this the best value for money safe mod to my old rally car. However tuning then does make the cost quite expensive. So a G3 is a great option, unless it's a wire in job, then it gets expensive! Either way, minimum budget for a new full replacement ECU and tune should be around $3k. Hence if you can get a reflash (depending on age of car etc), then they are generally much cheaper for a one off thing.

Just how low does that sit? And how far forward?