log1call

Oh, ok... you are let off Evowrx... I see you are only twenty-one... that explains it.

Yeah well for stupid people that would clean up with matches, yeah, perhaps better you don\'t do it that way. I\'ve had enough pressure though to know that I can hold that pressure in a six mill hose, and I know that if it\'s got enough pressure to feel, that it will keep running, so my suggestion is ok for reasonably intelligent people... you better stick with your gauge though... And, if you are so smart, why don\'t you suggest the simple things first?

Car groomers have twenty litre drums of upholstery cleaner that\'s a clear liquid, you rub it on spots with a cloth and it foams up and makes a big foamy mess on your cloth and the seat.. really worrying if it\'s dirty black grease your\'e trying to get off the customers car... and then , the foam starts to break down, and it disappears, and all the grease/ballpoint pen ink... is gone.. It\'s seriously much better than the stuff in a can... go see a car groomer at a car yard, and scrounge/buy a half cup full..

Well done.

Always do the simple stuff first. If you have a timing light, stick it on and watch it as the motor dies, does it stop, then the motor run down, or does the motor start dieing and the spark keep going...

It would also be a good idea to try a replacement "know good" main relay... they were renown for this symptom years ago.... Or slip your relay into a mates car and se if his car shits out..

You should check your fuel flow rate and then pressure, at the rail. Disconnect the hose and shove it in a bottle, turn the key on and there should be a full flow out of the hose. Now whip it out of the bottle and stick your finger over the end, turn the key on, and you should have pressure, somewhere near household water pressure... depends where you live...

Sounds like the brakes sticking alright to get that hot. It could be caliper or the brake hose swollen inside and letting the high pressure through to put the brakes on, but blocking enough to stop the fluid returning completely. Test it when it\'s jammed on by loosening the bleed nipple, if that free\'s it up, then it\'s the the brake hose. Confirm it a couple of times by jacking that wheel up, getting your mate to put the brakes on, then check whether it turns after he\'s let them off, and then whether undoing the nipple frees them up. The short wheel bearing life is perhaps caused by over-tightening the bottom link bolt which distorts the bearing housing. There\'s a technical service bulletin about it on end-wrench.

Before replacing the sensor, it\'s always a good idea to actually test it, and to check all the wiring.. Best thing is to download a pdf manual..

Are you sure there aren\'t two speed sensors...

There are some new definition files... http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/SelectMonitor.ini Those are for the SSM software and I\'d suspect that the A30117 definition might work for your car. Those addresses could be moved into Evoscan or there is a "data" file online for it. Try your car in SSM with that file copied into it.

It sounds to me like the clutch plate has stuck itself to the flywheel anyway, probably just from a long spell of no use, and a completely separate issue to the bolt.. but it would be best to take the clutch off while you are in there anyway.. Box out time.

You should check the circuits to and from the ecu before you go deciding that the O2 sensor is the fault.... Just a thought.

Have you checked the connection settings, port and speed etc? If some programs connect, then it must be a setting I'll bet.

I don't know what it would be without hearing it and even then it would only be an educated guess based on symtoms... like does it do it hot and cold, idling and at revs. Once I'd studied all the conditions and was certain it was a follower or head noise, not piston slap or gudgeon knock say, then to be sure I'd pull the covers, possibly even the cams, and inspect for oil, wear, blocked passagways etc... i'm not sure about your's but some models have a restrictor inside the cam that sets the oil pressure or flow to the cam followers... some expert in here(Itchi-ban), will know which models and if your's is one of them. I'm a mechanic and what I do know is that we should never go doing stuff until we know it is needed because even the best mechanic is opening thmself up to expence and problems they do not need if they go doing stuff that's not nessecary.. diagnose carefully and fix it first time and at the right price...

A tapping noise does not sound like a bent valve to me. If the valve is bent enough to upset the valve clearance the idle would be rough... Is the car idling smoothly and even on all cylinders? Have you done a compression check? Have you checked the oil supply to the cam followers?

There are different torque settings for different length bolts, you need to down load a manual.

You could check the routing is correct, and the connection blocks for loose wires or corroded terminals, including where they go into the ecu. You could pull the plug out of the ecu and connect a beeping multimeter to the CAS so the beeper is going, then go around the wiring wriggling it all till the beeper goes quite. It might show up a loose connection or broken wire. If those don't work then yeah, carry on and pull the ecu and inspect it.

Not sure if this will be the same, but worth a look into, and let us know if it works... it's off an american site. Reading the tcu code on the outback sport is the same as the legacy except instead of grounding pin 5 on the "diagnosis plug" you ground out pin 4. If you look under the dash by the steering column you'll find a black plug with 6 pins. Its close to the two green plugs, and if you follow the wires back you will find two black wires looped around and the ends taped up. Untape those wires. Run your car to normal temp by driving it around. Stop the car and put it in nuetral and turn it off. Put one of the black wires you just untaped in to pin 4 of the 6 pin plug. The plug has 2 pins on top and 4 pins on the bottom, so pin 4 is second from the left on the bottom when you're looking at the plug. Then turn the ignition on but dont start the car. Put it in drive then 3, then 2, then 1 and then depress the gas pedal part way. The AT light will then blink your code with the standard blink sequence.

Sounds to me like some cylinders aren't firing.. are you sure you have all the ignitions connected up right? Wire pinched somewhere?

What he says..

Groovy Dmsrex dude. I thought you were being a little defensive is all. No worries though. They do give good discounts and their oil is quite dear on the retail shelf so there is a good mark-up to be had from selling it. Good luck with it.

I sell several brands... what's your problem?

I got put right off the stuff the second time I saw it Koom! To tell the truth, it was when it was new on the market here, and they may have had contamination in their new plant.. perhaps it is better now. I figured that if their quality control was allowing that sort of thing through.. other shit could happen too. I have heard of water within the lasy year and a bit though, so I suspect it is still about the same as it was. If anyone else does look in the bottom of their oil packs.. tell us what you see.

I don't care how long they have been sponsoring racing, they are a relative new-comer here and it is entirely possible that there is parallel importing or second grade goods being sent down to NZ. I have seen heaps of contamination in their oil.. It sounds to me like you two sell their products, possibly because just like me you can get it at a good rate and onsell it at a profit... that is your business. I looked at it and decided not to sell it to my customers no how good the deal being offered was. My opinion and advice is offered independently... if the original poster is interested.