rex-leggy

dont like the line the back door takes it should follow the line of the wheel . change the frount bumper and some wing mirrors and i think it would be sick! just my opinion

good luck man . short block probly best bet for upgrade . espesialy if your able to do the work yourself. or have some mates to help you out.

+1 or jap race bt i wouldn't hold your breath on that 1. nzefi is the go . every time Ive been there there lots of help!

and i gta green afm here if ya need 1

afm cleaning http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/171272-mass-air-flow-maf-sensor-cleaning.html hope this link works should ave all the tests http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip

did ya get somone to have a look?

are they the super lows matt?

never seen a standard gt with leads unless its been converted. doubt it tho

Yeah I has heaps album here http://picasaweb.google.com/Busrsq/MySubaruRX11?feat=directlink sick. love the plate to! second this one

i got a lancia beta and found that out lol the hose was so brittle it just snaped! gta say tho best na engine i have ever had they rev extremely hard . I hate monster tachs with a passion but i had to have one so i knew wat i was doing because after i got the cams done it just revd and revd AMAZING! (must get it back together for a track day)

and the codes just came back up ?

reset the ecu and clear the codes then bro

lol dodgy home wiring ive had to fix so much over the years (not saying you did it dodgy) some people seam to think whys the fuse blowing????? i just hookd a plug onto a 10a lighting circuit and i was only using my hair dryer lmao

do you think they could have cut through the loom while the battery and everything was still hooked up ? could have shorted out everything.

dont know mate just going off wat i was told lol. he could be wrong he was from kiapoi after all

its a bit strange that all your injectors coded up theres something funny going on there lol

LOL.. Are you serious? If thats what your getting your alt must be stuffed.. Seriously.. Have a look at what an alternator is capable of discharging vs a battery charger. well he just said that going for a drive after jumping your car is never going to charge your battery . i was more meaning a full charge . it would be worth a go as those dam battery's can be expensive, id wana do my best to save it

going for a drive will never charge a battery . the alternator wont have enough juice in it to run your car and charge the battery . wack it on a charger and it may still be sweet ;D well this is what i got told at the auto sparkys yesterday when the f*^&ing van wouldnt glow. he said it may start again but it will have nowhere near full charge.

haynes manual bro all the diagnostics are in one . it sucks but unless you just start replacing stuff? but that will soon get expensive have ya got a muli meter? How to test the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) Here's the procedure out of the chilton's manual to test the TPS switch. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON. 2. Measure the voltage between the ECU connector terminal and ground. Voltage should be as follows: Terminal 2 and ground: 0.7-1.6 volts with the throttle fully open Terminal 2 and ground: 4.4-4.8 volts with the throttle fully closed Terminal 3 and ground: 5 volts Terminal 1 and ground: 0 volts 3. Ensure voltage smoothly decreases in response to throttle opening. If measurements are not within specification, check and repair ECU terminals or harness. 4. Disconnect the connector from the throttle sensor. Measure the resistance between throttle sensor terminals 2 and 3. Resistance should be 12 kilo-ohms. 5. Measure the resistance between terminals while slowly opening the throttle valve from the closed position. Resistance should be as follows: Terminals 2 and 4: 10-12 kilo-ohms with the throttle valve fully closed Terminals 2 and 4: 3-5 kilo-ohms with the throttle valve fully open 6. Ensure resistance smoothly increases in response to throttle opening. If measurements are not within specification, replace the throttle sensor. 7. Disconnect connectors from ECU and throttle sensor. 8. Measure resistance between ECU connector and throttle sensor connectors. Resistance should be as follows: ECU terminal 1 and throttle sensor terminal 2: 0 ohms ECU terminal 2 and throttle sensor terminal 4: 0 ohms ECU terminal 3 and throttle sensor terminal 3: 0 ohms 9. Measure resistance between throttle sensor connectors and ground. Resistance should be as follows: Terminal 2 and ground: 1 mega-ohm minimum Terminal 4 and ground: 1 mega-ohm minimum Terminal 3 and ground: 1 mega-ohm minimum 10. If resistance is not within specification, check and repair the harness or connector. Here is a diagram for the pin-outs.

yea there a bitch lol think ya got it and then at the last second (slip) and ya gta start again

new speakers . the coils could be on the way out . is it a standard headunit? that could be another reason lol dont know about b4s but my legacy one was sh1t.

haha +1 to this and post pics ans vid

lol mine just wriggled apart my mate tho took us a good 40 mins it was crazy how glued it was we used bog appliers and tapped them all the way round . the threebond made up for any of his scratchs.

from memory theres a bolt inside the sump locking the two halfs it caught me out. Did you get that one? otherwise it could just be really glued lol

i dont know weather its this but my car smoked heaps because the pcv valve was f**ked , i just took the pipe off an blocked it up ta check and the smoke went away