PhatRS

You probably want to measure the intake temps not the temp of the air coming in the scoop, volume of air not temperature would be affected by having a bigger scoop (though there maybe a little difference in temp due to more/less friction). More air through the cooler = more heat exchanged, no harm in cooling the incoming air down as well but you wont do that much with a bigger scoop.....hence watersprayers!

Depends on the street car and also what else you may do with it, good cooling is never a bad thing on a turbo car!!!!

I run 22 psi daily on a V7 block, I dont think going over 20psi is a big deal if its tuned well for it. Petrol quality is the big limiter really, where they have good gas overseas running 25-30psi daily is pretty common.

Standard GD is plenty wider than the GC alloy arms (my now silly amounts of front camber to get the tyres to fit will attest to that), Id say 10mm at least, the spec C are wider again and a different shape (sorta) to give more caster also. GC alloy ones are the same as the steel ones tho, for geometry that is.

Yeah just drain the catch can back to the sump below the oil line and as long as your oil temps are high enough the moisture burns off in the engine, then pipe the catch can vent down under the car so you cant smell it. Dont lose any oil that way I havent plumbed mine back yet as my temps are too low but I hardly get any oil in the catch can anyway.

4" straight pipe from the turbo worked on my mates old skyline, dont expect it was very legal tho

T25 is not subaru factory flange Funky (its a factory Nissan one I think, s13 maybe, square inlet, internally gated 5 bolt outlet if Im not mistaken), youd need to get a subaru flanged gt2863 which Im sure will be coming out shortly if not here already. ATPturbo generally do garrets in subie housings along with a few other retailers but the others normally give the turbo their own name.

stab in the dark 2.5lt with a 35r?

yeah took me 20 hours to do my new engine loom too, soldering to std connectors rather than new ones though.

Tap it into the intake manifold and use phenolic spacers between the heads and manifold? they take pretty much all the heat out of the manifold so you should get reasonably accurate readings.

35 year old Banking Operations officer but self taught mechanic and fibreglass/carbon laminator. Trial and error (with the odd bit of research FTW). 90% of the stuff Ive had done by shops takes 3 times too long costs 10 times too much and ends up being carp so quickly discovered that I am the only person who takes the care that I want with my car and I need to learn stuff. Ive owned the same RSB for 7 years I think now and gone from standard to top competition show car to broken to wide body to broken and now pretty over the top daily driver.

only chopped up asian student styles lol its by far and away the best event Ive been to.

Booked and ticketed, wouldnt miss it!!!

Pull the whistly fitting out....youll be pleasantly surprised.

I got recomended the Pagid yellows but only managed 9 laps before "an incident" but they were good for that long and still seem fine for fun driving on the road.

-8 from memory (10-11mm in normal money)

Not a straigt swap and to be honest the GTB ones are pretty cr@p as far as light output goes, might as well bolt a couple of those candles you cat blow out on the front

And worth it, the difference in manifold temp is night and day.

What about that little plastic cover going down into the bell housing and flapping about on the flywheel? Or.....is there oil in it?

I used the small one from a V7 on mine that worked fine.

AFAIK all are cast up till v7 just the STI got a better quality/stregth metal (you cant really semi forge something in my opinion, its either forged or its not......forging is a process afterall) , v7 are forged then the Hyperetetic (sp) cast were v8 onwards. Rods are all the same till v7+.

Was being sarcastic about a club engine just so everyone knows

Lol, can donate a set of good pistons and rods and an average crank if thats a start

We need a club engine to whack all these turbos on and get dyno plots for

Someone will correct me if Im wrong but I think to use them on the street you need a cage and auth card.