PhatRS

Best to take the strut out and take it apart so there is completely no tension on it too. All the road grime/sand and grit get in the threads and jam them up so if taking the pressure off it doesnt work then the grinder better come out. I have a spare locking ring or 2 if you need tein ones?

Im going to manfield but not to Wanganui, if the buyer wants to come meet us there Ill take it.

You cant put the 30 housing on the 22 as the 30 is plain bearing and the housings arent interchangable with the BB cartridges. I have a p18 BB housing if you wanna try it tho? Everyone says the 22 is laggy for some reason, I found it to be really quick spooling, better than my 23 as my graphs prove. No avcs, std RSB gearing but no harm in making it better still.....more area under the curve!!!! It has been done in OZ and they like the results only made 2kw less with a p18 housing which could be put down to weather conditions or margin of error. The spool was reported to be 2-300rpm better. Most tests have been done on bolt on variants of Garretts (MD321 turbos mainly) and they gained nothing but more lag from the p20 over the p18. Note the housings were machined to fit the garrett cartridges so not perfectly standard. (they now cast their own housings but basically the same shizzle)

Nope, single scoll. I still want to see someone bung a p18 housing on a vf22, should make all the power that it normally does and cut down the "lag" which it doesnt really have anyway. Simons 18g is the same specs as mine although mine is built here but he has AVCS and a 6 speed which will help spool, I still think that a 34, 36, 37, 22 are all better turbos just not rebuildable and cant take as much boost (they dont need to tho).

I have a TD05 18g and compared to a 23 or 22 both of which I have had its a lag monster, really good once it spools but rubbish for street driving, really needs avcs or the bin lol. I did lots of research before I got it and the 18g was meant to be one of the best turbos to get, after driving it Id never get one again, in fact Ill be going to Garrett later in the year which has been proven to be very very good. I have overlayed the 22 (red) and the 23 (orange) that I did have, the 23 was on a std ecu, the 22 was on wastegate boost but tuned. The other 2 are the 18g (blue line) and the bolt on Garrett that I will be going to (green line, graph was from another car with fairly similar mods to mine)

Factor in the v7 being heavier and there will be stuff all difference in the real world Id say. The newer vfs (30,34,36,37 etc) do seem to make better area under the torque curve while making the sameish peak power even when chucked on a non-avcs engine, better compressor designs no doubt. I always found the 23 had the worst of all worlds but thats my opinion and no one cares about that

There is an access panel behind the rear seat on the drivers side, you go in there. Should be fine just to do a straight swap, the only ones Ive heard being that much different are the later model b4s.

OMG Im actually gonna agree with Rueben for once, did mine with a hair dryer and a rubber mallet, not one crack. Then I killed it with an angle grinder 2 years later for the widebody lol.

Youd need massive positive offset not minus and as Matt says most likely not gonna find it unless its custom made. No matter what you do youll need flares or a widebody.

May need a cert regardless if you are changing PCD, however I could be talking poos. I use 25mm spacers to change to 5x114.3 and they are certed and legal. Makes setting the handling up a bit interesting tho, you get a lot of bumpsteer/torquesteer and some other funky stuff. Increased track makes it a lot flatter in the corner tho.

Id make a cold air box or even use the std one and pipe it in from a cold DRY area in the guard. I see cars with pods sticking out or bumpers and stuck n guards and wonder if they can ever drive in the rain or through a puddle without hydraulicing the engine.

And less water in it

Seen that before, its really nice just need to ditch those rank headlights.

Youd need v9 onwards, which would also require different suspension and possibly driveshafts. Probably easier to use a spacer/adaptor and arch flares. Option 2 get wheels redrilled to 5x100 but Im not sure Ud trust that personally.

I havent had a roof lining in for like 2 years, no issue with WOF, When I retrimmed the pillar trimss I got WOF without them too, dont think there will be any issue there. Not with Funkys WOFer anyway.....106db meh its not thaaat loud haha.

Yeah that would be blatantly pilferred from Nasioc

Sump is the ideal place for it, or you can use the blanking bung behind cyl 3 which is m18 x 1.5. Same as the std oil pressure fitting so you can use one of them and retap to suit your sender if you need.

Custom ones can be heated and bent at places like George Stock & co down here or you can get a bar splined and mounts for the links put on. I dont think its too much work although you might need to know what size you want to go to or have them made up adjustable. Probly not much around for the BE as they are the only models with multi link rear suspension arent they?

If its for the Prova car would custom machined ones be out of the question? Zerosports will probly do some horribly over priced jobs too.

Ive got an open deck if you get stuck for anything better, in great nick too

Yep thats essentially what I did on mine

Ive always been lead to believe that coppers produce a better stronger spark too, might be more with super human gaps than on a near std car.

Stooooooooooooop, some one post a new result!!!!!!! please!

On my tab?.....dont get me started, I can still quote the entire movie

Harry...I need NOS, couple of the big ones.....and I need it by tonight.