Tony

You havent "blown" the gearbox - you have broken the selector arm which pulls/pushes the shaft into gears. Its a stupidly small part which usually gives way due to rough/forceful shifting (mainly caused by f**ked synchros) and leaves you stuck in 4th gear. I recently broke the same thing... this is what it looks like: Easy enough to fix - just have to take the rear housing of the gearbox off and its right there (gearbox out job though). The ball that breaks off just usually drops to the bottom of the casing and doesnt interfere with anything so need to worry about that. But if your synchros are stuffed, then you\'d be advised to get that sorted as well to lessen the chance of it happening again. As a note, the above part is $197 + GST from Subaru, but there are none available in the country at the moment - ex-japan, 1.5 weeks wait if you order.

evowrx could be meaning "stance" in the sense of it just looked cool maybe? Cos it certainly didnt have low offset wide wheels with skinny tyres (this was a fair few years ago before the trend started).

Daaaaaaaaamn, blast from the past!!!!! That was my mates old car.... RIP now though, the person who bought it off him wrote it off sadly :\'( Anyone wanna buy the numberplate - he still has that if anyone is keen

To me it looks like he posted in this thread to say its gay

Go to a proper bolt shop (Steelmasters etc) not just a Mitre 10 or whatever - Tell them what you want the bolts for and specify what grade they need to be, they will be able to sort you out. When we put clutches together that need new bolts we usually use grade 12.9 cap screws (M8 thread for subarus). Hope that helps.

Heat is what cracks rotors and accelerates wear on your pads. You need to look at pads that handle a higher heat range, and get as much cool air to your rotors as you can. Simple ducting from the front bumper does wonders. An advantage of good quality aftermarket rotors is that they will have much better designed cooling vanes which will pump air out more effectively than the factory "pillar" vane design. Although, they will be priced accordingly (and I am not sure of what readily available bolt on options are available for subarus? - DBA kangaroo paw design is still a pillar type vane and I personally don\'t think they work as good as they claim... Just in my opinion/experience though). Hampton downs is very hard on brakes, so I would definitly look at adding some ducting. This combined with good pads (I\'d suggest endless N35S compound), and fluid should see you right. But the brembo front upgrade is a very good one if you want piece of mind and no more rotor cracking worries. The 326x30mm discs can dissapate a lot more heat than the 294mm ones. Just comes down to how much cash you want to spend I guess.

Originally it was in Ross Rutherfords GC8 race car back in the super GT days, which Tony Oliver then bought off him. Tony changed that suspension out for Proflex. I was looking to buy them off Tony but he must have sold them to whoever you got them from. Al has looked after most of Tony\'s cars so he will know a bit of history on that suspension (I spoke to him a bit about it when I was considering purchasing them). Al still looks after that car, it is now owned by Colin Parkin. What did you end up paying? (if you don\'t mind me asking, if so, no biggy, or just pm me).

You need to take the car to Al at Macbilt. The suspension you have (going from the pic you posted somewhere earlier) is originally from a car that Al runs/maintains. I was actually going to buy that suspension from the original owner late last year, it was very cheap for what it was. Al set my car up and the difference was amazing (big contributor to dropping my lap times) he certainly knows his stuff when it comes to making subarus go quick. It is a time consuming job so can be expensive, but you have to remember you are paying for his expertise, and as you have discovered, setting up suspension of that level is not a 5 minute job. The double adjustable bump & rebound settings are something that will need playing around with to give your preferred feel - usually requires a fair amount of on track testing (from one extreme to the other so you know how each setting feels and how it affects the car), but for a street car you would just have to play around until you are happy (you could say that suspension is a tad overkill for a street car! Or is your car a race/track car? Sorry I am not familiar with what you have). Go see Al and speak to him about what you want to achieve. His advice/help is well worth the money spent.

Nope not needed man.

Thats how the R180s are - it is fine, put the axles in and you are good to go. They are fairly easy to pop out with a good pry bar, I guess thats just how they are? In saying that, my axles have never popped out on their own before (and my rear arms are wound out a fair bit to give more camber and wider track, so if they were going to, they would have by now!) [quote name='funkytown said: what about the viscous units Tony? i know in r160 the axle stubs change depending on the diff type Both types use the same axles - my 6 speed came with a viscous/sh*t-track diff and I used it for a bit till I could be bothered swapping CW&P and putting my plate centre in. All the R180 axles I have seen use the same stub axles on the inner CV.

ummm, on the R180 plate diffs, the circlips are inside the diff itself. The grooves on the axles are what they sit into when the axle is pushed right in. I wouldnt go putting extra circlips on the axles!

I can supply you a new one if you get stuck - $78 + GST + Freight. Got a few of them sitting here. PM me if you want one.

"were" dealers for them.... That was a while ago, haven\'t dealt with them for quite some time (sorry you probably saw that on our website? It\'s been the same for years with no updates! New website on the way soon.... It\'s nearly finished and ready to go live).

Strange, cos the Subaru TD05 water feed banjos & bolts I have here are definately M14 (the lines are still hanging off the engine after I removed the turbo). I just re-measured to make sure I didnt give you the wrong info

? Version 7 hubs/knuckles shouldnt have any different geometry? They are the same as the earlier subaru ones. Or are you meaning he wouldnt have to alter his wheel alignment since he wont be removing his hubs?

Just measured one (from a TD05 but pretty sure VF use the same - last time I looked anyway). Its M14x1.5.

Use 235/40/17, it is better suited to your gearing. 235/45/17s are a really tall tyre and would cause a few rubbing issues I'd say (plus they look a bit balloon like on a small car like a GC).

Your second pic is the clutch damper line thing (as Stoffa said). Proportioning valve is the black thing that the lines go into (on the RA and Stoffa's car). Your ABS prop valve would be the thing with the 2 yellow circles on it, but I have no experience with ABS and how the valve would differ between the 2 models (although surely there is a reason for it being different)

hahaha good luck to a Subaru surviving that at pace

Yep, but a fu*kin' expensive solution! Just go to your local autolign and buy some of their generic adjustable ball joint type links for a quarter of the price...

How hot is your oil actually getting on the track Rob? I would have thought with your car being relatively standard (power wise), running a larger capacity sump, and only doing 3 lap sprint type events, there wouldnt be a need for an oil cooler just yet. What oil do you use?

Here's mine with the wastegate mounted below the turbo: And to give you an idea of exactly where it is, you can just see part of the wastegate in this pic (to the left, under the brake master cylinder): I originally had the wastegate mounted where Jon's is, however, I made a new up-pipe/wastegate adapter without having the turbo with me (I based it on my old design) and once I got the turbo back, it didnt quite sit how I planned and the wastgate pipe ended up fouling on the gearbox. Changed it to this set-up now, was a case of putting it where it could fit. It works fine, but I prefer the original (Jon's) way better as its much easier to access the wastegate itself if you need to...

Went and got a coupla bits off it today that I needed Its fairly stripped, but there is still a few bits that people may be interested in: front grill, boot, tail lights (red/clear indicator type), rear bumper, gauge cluster (white face dials), most of the dash, steering wheel (looked fine to me - airbag not blown), rear seats, rear hubs, rear axles, diff, suspension, 3/4s of a 22B style front bumper (if you are good with fibreglass you could piece it back together!)... Its one of those V-Limited type coupes, non STI, so R160 rear end etc etc

i also used airplex... but as tintin stated.. the airplex ones need to clip around the headlight... unless you jam a screw through the tabs or something? No they dont - I use them in place of headlights on my race car for the exact same reason tintin wants them. Pretty easy to make work on an impreza - all you need is a small drill bit, 2 cable ties, a rubber bush, 1 long screw, and a washer

www.airplex.co.nz Check out the headlight covers section, and find the listing for Impreza. They are the ones I use.