Marky

I am thinking airflow meter or an air leak

Open question which is relevant to this thread For evo 4-9, a common simple DIY change is throwing on one of the Ralliart maps, there's a couple around and its cheap easy horseypowers and it's "factory vetted" so to speak Why is this not something commonly done with WRX/Forester? For arguments' sake the maps for the S204 etc are available online, and are factory set maps to suit a motor which is broadly identical to the normal STi (just a free flow muffler, different tune and that's it yeah?) Just thinking out loud I guess

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?21038-BH5-Twin-Turbo-to-Single-Turbo-document-Wiring-modifications-*All-you-need*

Yeah I should probably send that cable hey

Would you plan on putting a bigger turbo on one day? And would this new downpipe be applicable to any of them?

Can't you use manifold vacuum as a measure as well - more vac being pulled at steady throttle = it's doing things easier?

My additional 2c (so, my 4c?) is don't worry about what boost pressure you want to run People get fixated on "I want to run 20psi", or whatever number they have picked End of the day with a bigger motor, which breathes better, you might not -need- 20psi to make the number you wanted anyway. It's purely an example of how much restriction there is to the turbo pushing air in remember, so if you have a more efficient motor to start with, it's less restriction, so at the same airflow you show less manifold pressure (sort of) Hence why you can make such easy power on a turbo honda motor (for example) compared to having to push 2 bar into a beat up 8.0:1 EJ20 to make the same on the same turbo. Ditto for how on some cars a camshaft change can net huge gains, again it's making the base more efficient, which then snowballs once you add boost. More capacity is the same, combine both for max win

Best upgrade is don't buy it, get the sti instead Unless it's -dirt- cheap it's not worth it

What is the problem exactly? Leaky up pipe needs fixing obviously but whats the other problem?

Plenty of turbo vehicles with 9.5:1 CR these days, low comp is nice for seeing the boost gauge read high but makes for a pig off boost, or at least not as nice. 10:1 is getting a little silly on pump gas, if you had meth injection or E85 then go mad but fuel quality can be the limiting factor with silly CR's, ditto for turbo sizing. Most new-tech turbo motors are quite high comp - likes of the mazda 2.3 MZR, audi/vw direct injection turbos, etc etc all run 9.5:1 upwards and they all drive like you have a massive diesel under the bonnet, compared to a peaky older tech engine especially. Round town "normal" use is where you feel the difference, the dyno sheet not so much In a way same idea as going to a larger capacity, work smarter not harder

Yes the BOV hose is perfectly fine

As said that just looks like redline oil. Which for what it's worth does a great job of hiding whines but is a bit sh!t when cold, it is good stuff but has its' downsides. If it were me, I'd just flick the box while it's out and get something with shorter legs anyway, I think this one has the longest across the board of all the 5sp boxes?

For like $3k if it isn't covered mind you

Yeah a WOF check will never pick up anything like a diff about to die - for real not sarcasmstick, especially if you never heard or felt it make a peep in 1000km of use. Least it's only the diff which has popped, not the actual gearbox itself - small consolation I guess Remember it's not the car dealer providing the warranty, he has just onsold cover from whoever is actually underwriting it. I imagine -they- have declined it, and now he's just trying to dig upwards so he doesn't have to pay out. As said, stick to your guns & it should be covered. You're not obligated to pay for the brand new diff either, the garage would have just assumed it's a warranty job and went OE cause it's easier than faffing about with 2nd hand. If you do end up having to go further just be wary what you write online. Have heard first hand of a few people being caught out in similar situations The wheels you put on - are they identical offset and width to stock? If it isn't, then I guess it's an alteration to the driveline not solely cosmetic (if you really want to split hairs), just get a second opinion from another mech or even subaru if you end up up against it

Note - forester bonnet sits way higher than WRX So a WRX splitter will fit on but you'll need to extend it somehow

Lmao Define "slightly fast" for the corner

Yes

Whereas I'm on the other end of the scale Overpriced product for what is a relatively simple job, which can be done for a fraction of the cost Just chuck a bleed valve on it, the cost of that EBC is halfway to a complete standalone ECU which can do boost control too Why do you want either is the question

Got some tidying up to do on it still, but got the sedan bumper on. It's got the front lip centre bit to go on yet, that needs trimming to suit the (crooked....) intercooler. (That's on the to-do list too)

See if pro-wholesale will hook you up too, he's on Maleme St (or used to be) and is a "sponsor" on here He's also friendly as hell haha

I forget the name, they're in where adens tyres used to be I think? Just get the to weld the pipes too, just cut everything where it needs to be, mark what welds to what and get them to do it. Failling that silicone joiners are cheap as anything these days too

Replaced spark plugs, old were platinums gapped at 1.1mm and look healthy (not lean, rich, oily or chunks of piston bouncing around woo) New are el cheapo gapped at .65 and my misfire is gone, hooray. While at it shortened some of the IC piping and seafoamed the thing again cause I found the can and figured it'd be one more way to irritate the neighbours Painted new bumper, removed the old one, started to trim the new one to fit the fmic, kinda slipped Inside of my knuckle looks pretty healthy too so that's a bonus

Heaps of places make them custom - there's a wee place over the road from me who do them. It's just a radiator but thicker Simplest bet is buy a $80 chinese cooler, have them wop off 100mm from the height and reshape the end tank to suit, done. You now have a long, wide cooler and don't need to remove the bumper bar or change anything. Paint it black and it's now an undercover version of the same Got my bumper off at the moment and it'd genuinely be about 50% hidden behind bumper anyway, it's on my to-do list for this year As for pipework, just grab a generic subaru kit and adapt to suit, or a couple bends and lengths and make it work. It's pretty simple stuff just helps to plan / mock it up first, then once you've done it once and made it pretty.... Make three more, sell them on TM and recoup your costs cause noone else in NZ has bothered but there's plenty enough demand

Just make it long and skinny, easy peasy Even if you have a 600x100x80 cooler it's still going to work better than the top mount