Marky

Or photobucket - dead simple, load pic, share address, done

Holy hell - that explains the front end knock I get on mine - can see the paint wear on the swaybars where it\'s obviously moving back & forth

Oh right - no it won\'t affect them at all, if anything it\'ll be better for the motor having a more consistent / cooler intake charge Nothing to do with the turbos unless you start cranking the boosty boosty

In other news like I said drop the boost back a bit also I read somewhere a while back that the "reflash" the dealers do is nothing more than a reset and solid fang to have the ECU do some relearning on lower octane, like an opposite of the old "reset ECU bung avgas in thrash t!ts off car" trick on 90\'s skylines /mitsis to get a couple degrees advance thrown in for the day (that trick does work but I have nooooo idea how it pans out on newer stuff)

What do you mean "twin turbo kit"

I was gonna ask "Are you getting them in when and how much" - but you I take it from the address in your profile you are from scarles anyway? Actually I\'m still asking when & how much hahaha just a bit cheeky edit: nevermind looked it up haha http://scarles.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=224

It looks like it\'s just cracked in the sun, not like its deliberate I am not a fan sorry

Pretty sure they don\'t sell them anymore, apparently pretty much a plug & play experience from what I read. No they won\'t let you keep foglights unless you get creative with trimming them a bit in behind? 99% of the internet will tell you it makes them more laggy, apart from the 1% who have actually used them and write about it who say a) no lag difference b) no more heat soak in traffic / hot days and c) yussss now you get BOV flutters

It won\'t be any faster - it\'s still the same turbos, running the same boost, just rather than one coming on then VOD and re-spooling it\'s just like one turbo which is far too large Just "different" - I\'d do it if I was taking it to the drags or a trackday or something for sure, went back to normal last night and helloooo low down power again... and hello VOD again you suck

Bunnings - outdoor irrigation section - 50c for an adjustable nozzle piece hahaha On a more serious note I\'ll have a look round the garage

Nope - Red-D / 2001 onwards only sorry (on the build plate by passengers guard it will say BE5 a-b-c-d for which revision yours is) There\'s a rev-D ECU on trademe for $75 at the moment but I have no idea if it\'s do-able to retrofit to earlier model

Close gap up on / replace the plugs (does no harm to do with a new car anyway), also try it (as has been said) with a boost tap and see if problem persists If problem goes away with tap: ECU or boost solenoid problem (either ECU is retarding boost due to knock or mystery problem, or solenoid is sticking closed) If problem stays: Not either of those look towards misfire / something else at fault Trial by elimination

Average of the first page of google says approx 150-170kg with and without turbos / manifolds etc so 140 is pretty fair You\'re just too tough ow

It has markings on the side of the bottle

Bear in mind it\'s basically a silhouette series these days - like the DTM or NASCAR cars in a way - one brand or another won\'t be allowed to dominate. Wasn\'t it a really big deal a couple years back when the holdens had a longer front under-tray and therefore an advantage? The Holden bodyshell isn\'t even the right shape/size compared to the road car (lower roof, shorter back doors I think?) Every aspect of those cars is regulated - nobody can get an unfair advantage through the car itself, it\'s meant to be a parity series (or at least it is now) The cars now use these OHC 2V V8\'s because that\'s what they can use - same as the locked diffs, the 7500 rev limit, the 5L capacity - imagine if they all had free reign to use "what the road cars come with" - would be pretty mean to hear some typhoons out there

I do like the function some forums have of being able to vote usernames up and down with "karma" or trades completed etc. Can be bastardised a bit but better than nothing.

Sooooo the backdrop got levelled over the weekend I will accept anything east of Anzac Drive as a substitute

It\'s big, it\'s heavy, it\'s wood

New windscreen wiper blades! Next best thing to a new car Also broke something so converted to parallel twin

Yyyyyes the only difference with them is that you CAN run the manifolds without joiner pipe, since you\'d have one waste gate per bank.

Found something broken, converted to parallel until I can replace said part (secondary bypass valve thing) and thought I\'d put this up, the internet makes it seem like such a hard job - it isn\'t. Changing oil takes longer. First off - this is the *Free* way to do this, takes you 20 minutes, and is 100% reversible in the same amount of time (you don\'t even need to cut any hoses, nothing). It will not be as good as a dedicated setup (with parallel headers etc) and not as good again as a single setup - however there\'s a lot to be said for cost. All this is doing is short-cutting the TT system to lock it into the same arrangement as is normal above 4500, so no you will do the car no damage and have nothing to lose. Secondly - if I\'ve gotten things wrong, please tell me. The reason I wrote this up is when googling for the diagram smurff put up years ago (which is down the bottom) I just found link after link of people either asking how to do it, know-it-alls going on about "I think it\'d be terrible, just convert to single turbo" without trying it, or people thinking it was a horrendous job of re-wiring, replumbing and confusion. You can make up your own mind about how it drives, some love it, some think it\'s a pig - I put some examples at the end of how mine drives. So first thing: Loosen off the heat shield on the secondary turbo. You don\'t need to remove it outright - just take off the two bolts on top and the one down close to the chassis rail. There\'s a bastard of one tucked underneath, but once you remove those 3 you can tilt it right back. Yay now you have access to the exhaust valve actuator rod - notice how it\'s threaded? Slightly off topic you can noticably change the behavior of the car by lengthening and shortening this rod, bit of trial and error but you can improve VOD and secondary spool a bit, bit of a balancing act. ANYWAY - unscrew this right out. It\'s a reverse thread, and the locking nuts can get pretty stuck on there too. Keep winding until the little hexagonal rod falls off, or hopefully you grabbed it before it fell and got stuck in the steering rack. Now it\'s pretty tight, but try and wire the bottom half of the rod down, basically rod down = valve open. It holds itself down anyway but may as well keep it there. IF you were doing this permanently, you would either remove the valve, or make a new up-pipe. The piping guide at the bottom suggests tricking the car into permanently opening it with pressure - I just took the short cut. Now put the heat shield back on. There is a vacuum hose going to this valve - this is the one which opens and closes the secondary turbo off from the intercooler outlet. It\'s held closed by vacuum... So pull the hose off, its spring loaded to stick open. Done. In theory you now have the TT system stuck open. (Oh yeah, block the hose off) Last thing - you need to block the secondary dump valve OR tee it into your other BOV, it\'s the relief valve the TT system uses to pre-spool the secondary (the hose which runs from secondary turbo, to a plastic arm, then a black thing which is just a BOV but not used as one... sort of). Mine has a massive bolt in the hose (cause I\'m redneck bro) and this is temporary, what you are MEANT to do is to tee it into the main BOV line. I would have, but this thing being snapped is the reason I did this in the first place so uh.. yeah. In theory you can now go for a drive, and then watch the check engine light come on after the first few times you floor it. Reason being - the ECU in these things has a MAP sensor with the sole job of watching for boost to be on just primary, then on both to make sure the TT system is functioning correctly. One side of it goes after the intercooler valve and is watching primary boost, the other is in the plastic arm to the secondary relief valve thing. Luckily here\'s something Subaru prepared earlier - the hose which goes to the TOP of the exhaust valve actuator conveniently has nothing coming through it until about 4 grand when it starts to get boost through it. You unplug this - and instead join it to the hose going to the map sensor. Pro photo mid-work below - if you\'ve replaced your hoses with pretty ones, the hose you use is the back one of the two running up the firewall. Blank off the hose which ran from the plastic arm bit, it has no use now. The hose to the top of the ECV is number 8, and the one to the MAP sensor is number 22. FYI the one to the bottom of the ECV gets vacuum only as a way of being able to half-open the valve. Now that is literally it - there is no messing around with wiring, if you want to undo this (and to be honest it\'s quite likely you will) you just reverse what has been done. Just don\'t burn your hands. So - how does it drive - whats the benefits and why would you do this? I don\'t know if my car is a prime example but here\'s what I have found anyway - it\'s laggy and the long legs the legacy got makes things worse. Best comparison I can give is it\'s similar to an 1.8L GSR with a TD05, pretty doughy down low but worth it once it wakes up. Basically feels n/a below 3500. 5th gear @ 3k (100kph ish) gets you about 0.5-0.6 bar boost and a corresponding lack of speed. Dropping to fourth at the same speed (about 4 grand?) it will hit about 1 bar in around a second - in comparison with it TT it would spool the primary, hit VOD in an instant and then start to spool. From a standing start or dropping back a gear on the move it (parallel) canes the TT (sequential) setup as it just wakes both up, however say goodbye to getting a kick from booting it in second on a roll like you used to. I haven\'t driven something with one of the z/s sequential controllers on - so can\'t comment on how it compares to that. The sound is drastically changed - it has a hint of the normal burble at idle but to be fair it sounds like ass until it starts to get some boost into it. Not much different to tuned length headers or a non turbo suby I guess - once it does get some boost on board I love it, sounds like nothing else. IF I was to carry on with this I\'d be looking to get some proper headers and downpipes for it and try to improve the spool up, mine still has factory downpipes including primary cat which won\'t be helping matters. You *could* look to use a V5/6 ecu as per a normal single conversion - and that\'d make sense to do - but isn\'t quite so reversable and involves spending $$ (I understand there is a difference in CR 8.5 / 9.0 between STi and B4?). If you could get the spool up improved a bit it\'d be a pretty sweet way to do things. I have seen it mentioned that some remove (and block off) the joiner pipe which connects left and right banks - the problem there is that you lose boost control to the 2ndry turbo - at the moment when the single WG on the primary vents, it\'s dumping gas from the whole manifold hence why it works just fine. I get absolutely 0 spiking or flickering on boost with the way things are now. In terms of outright speed - pass? 0-100 times are a bit hard to compare, 0-400m won\'t happen with this car - I timed it at under 3.5 sec 80-120k so it\'s got pace enough for me at least. To do this to a BG/BD it is effectively the same - not sure if the hoses are numbered the same, but where they run to and from is. I\'ve tried and tried to get it to throw a CEL at me but so far so good, things seem happy (touch wood). Here\'s the diagrams as well - only thing I do different is not doing anything with the ECV hoses. Writing this post up took me 3 times as long but I know some find a diagram way way harder to follow than just a photo. Anyway - have fun

Enough GTR, the wing is for looks anyway Time for awesome Best $800 I spent in my life, ran high 14\'s and never ever stopped being funny Apart from that one time it tried to fall over sideways

Wow they\'re coming down in price, good score Your numberplate is almost as bad as my FAJ one though haha

Gate might have a rip in diaphragm just barely enough to start leaking after some strain on it as has been said Short answer: no it\'s not normal to have it vary, that\'s a symptom of a gate being too small / not opening fully / dump being restricted, things start to "snowball" - more load and time in a higher gear = more gas which can\'t be bled off = more boost = more gas = more boost Playing with fire running that much boost through a 4G93 though

I did an advanced defensive driving course not long ago, genuinely taught me a few good habits - and I used to drive for a living. Majority of it was more about learning to predict other road users & hazards, as opposed to "how to drive your car". Also taught a fair bit of the class some of the basics they literally didn\'t understand - like what stamping the brakes can do mid corner, things like that - for car minded people it\'s (in theory) simple stuff but for joe bloggs it can be an eye opener. Compared to what is required to pass learners / restricted it\'s worthwhile doing. How to handle 180kph with a jammed throttle - how about learn to knock a car into neutral?