lachlan

mine doesnt really drip much aye . like it treis to then gives up . well it doesnt empty itself like you would think

lol just read ya thread . yeah nah wont bother arguing with you again

i have stock water sprayer re located to apexi fmic . def makes a difference . u know how yyour car feels like it kinda cant be bothered on a real hot day and feels real chrisp and lots of pull when its 0 outside . i recon it feels about 40-50% of that difference . the hose is miles long enough as it is just chase it back . my squirters are held on the bumper with little > shaped clips . almost look professionally made

refering to supercooler was the big thread from overseas . in the supercooler thread ? is that what you are on about ? . his holds 5 gallons in the tank . thats 20 kg . plus the tank , pump . water in the lines . water in the cooler . water in the front heat exchanger . the front exchanger itself . bet if all that carp was on the scaled and you add 30 litres of water you not going to get much change from 50 kg

lol "check engine " went west bout the same time as floppy disks .

lol i really love how everyone pull sout the old "water has 14 times the heat transfer of air" . lol but noone ever mentions the 5 stages of heat transfer and the fact they are all very in effiecint due to minimal temp difference across them all need some pop corn for this thread now . the supercooler isnt up to fuck all anyway . if he achieved any less with a milion dollars of supplies and WMI then itd be laughable . hed prolly get similar results with the tmic with WMI and saved himself 4 figures of pipes and fittings and 50 kg

fans on some top mounts make a difference but they are really only fixing a problem that shoudltn exist there is no way to get one on a subaru . but on a gtt caldina that are def worth doing spraying cool water on a warm top mount will do something bout i doubt youd notice from the seat of your pants . if you logged the temps yes it would cool the core down faster . fuck you lot needa get a life fan on a front mount = fail . it is surrounded by ambient temp air . adding MORE ambient temp air isnt going to achieve anything is it ?

my non sti ra has no auto mode tempted to hook it to a 10 psi pressure switch

id say its gonna get fixed . itll go on the chassis rape bench and be good as new . its quite scary watching a skilled operator on a chassis bench . well not scary but interesting

oh well i asked him for a "what would this cost joe blow at a panels shop" not a "what will you fix this for" price go see the boys at doug smith . should sort you out . they do all armstrongs stuff etc .

mate whos a pretty up there panel beater who i just sent the pics said paint 150 and repair about the same

it says how much you need to run it which is what they ask when you drive ambient air blows accross the intercooler to cool it down to ambient temp when you are strationary idling your engine is ingesting ambient air that is also flowing through the intercooler. you intercooler actually doesnt shed any heat untill your heated charge air(boost) warms it up and creates a temp difference between the inside and the outside

fkn lol . click on the link . read the question on the auction and the response then look closely at the picture

no . would not achieve anything the airflow through it before you stopped and the charge air through it as the engine idles are cooling it down . the intercooler doesnt get warm untill you start boosting not needed . only time you would want one is a tmic with the engine idling caldinas benefit from this

got it going again . installed aem wide band . made the intake a whole lot better . re fitter the water sprayer tnk and hooked it up to the front mount . went for a thrash . 15 psi . mid 11 afrs . injectors nudging 88% . fuck it feels fast . nowhere to open up many gears . gave it a launch . spun all 4 for the length of the car .

i doubt it . looks like they barely clear the stock brakes . maybe meet up with 4 pots and try a wheel

yeah ive got an avcr i had them plugged in but not plumbed in . ive just left the map plugged in but not plumbed . replaced the boost solenoid (20 ohm) and the brown solenoid(42 ohm) with resistors from jay car . no engine light . i took out that whole bracket and bs too car runs mint . afrs are happy and plenty of injector action yeah was more wondering what the brown thing actually achieved

its pretty obvious what the map sensor does . but what /y is there the little 3 port solenoid plumbed in with it aswell . i have had both not plumbed to anything for a while and car is going good . ive searched the net but there isnt really much info on them . well not the whys and hows ive seen people put a t and a one way valve in the line as a primitive boost cut defender but allows it to still see vacuum

are you seroius ? you think 1 kw of power will put compressive focre on a rod to bend it sideways ? heaven forbid there be an explosion on the other side of a piston pushing on said rod ... it just stalls the starter . if the engine fires that is a different story

prolly coulda gone in the silly questions thread too interesting reading the wikipedia bout plates . funny there is no mention of how many boy racer cars got reregistered when they were dishing out "FTP" plates

^^ gtfo this thread . orange and green and monster energy in general was cool for about a month at the end of 2010 .

advan rg . will never go out of fashion. 3 sets on tm atm too . or set a new trend and get some AME tracers been out for a while but still pretty rare in nz and fkn sick . not bed price either

jesus fuck settle down on the throttle . was someone having a seizure on the gas peddle ? in the first video engine wouldnt have turned over with that much water inside it . all that water would have just been sitting in the exhaust . and a wee bit in the throttle body

starter motor wont bend rods

if you lose your ones and get a new set as replacement they are odd ball . not sure why . maybe they run special ones for vtnz etc to have on hand and not upset the new regos