readosnr

ok to get this completely accurate lets look at this as 4 engine types EJ20R GTB Manual engine (206kw engine) the BG5-B engine was different to the BG5-C engine (both were the same as their BD5 sedan counterparts) EJ20K STI Ver 3 STi engine was different to Ver 4 STi engine CAMSHAFTS (not including wrx, wrxra, ej20h twin turbo auto or manual) V3 EJ20k and BG5-B EJ20R were the same V4 EJ20k and BG5-C EJ20R were the same Cyl Heads Ver 3 and ver 4 had the same bare heads (same as wrx, wrx ra, 22b & auto models of same year) EJ20R heads were the same between the BG5-B and BG5-C

JDM V7 WRX (non sti): 5 speed models were 4.444 Aus/ other models spec 5 speed wrx also had a 4.444 (there was a 3.545 rear diff was fitted but not to the australian spec models, so we shouldnt see those here) but as subar-speed say best bet is to get the gearbox code

those wheels are part of the "STI SPORTS" range of wheels that STI japan sell. you can get them through any subaru dealer in nz, and more pics are avail at STI japan website. i have only ever sold 1 set of these wheels, and prices have gone up dramatically since then so expect to pay drug money

i too am interested in this thread as i have sold anywhere from 15-20 of these shortblocks over the last 4 years since i discovered them and not one of these have ever come back. such vehicles i know ive sold to have been - atleast 2 bc legacys - 2 SF5 foresters - atleast 1 twin turbo - mostly gc impreza's - atleast 2 gc rallys up north - and even 2 ver7 sti's (one being a targa rally car) - (even a top level NZRC campaigner buys these and uses them for the parts) surely someone must have bought one and not bolted it together properly and blown it up?

a "20k" is a GG hatch Turbo (basically a "WRX") it had the ej205 engine, came in hatch only, 5 speed or sport shift auto i dont know what turbo it had (genuine subaru part number not fitted to any other models) "20K" was only released as a bugeye hatch (NB and NBR models were the bugeye sedan) and i beleive it was THE wrx from japan. upon the release of the ver8, the 20K model name was no longer used and they reverted back to the "WRX".

whats the go with the starter motor bolt/stud? my box is a ver 9 (so 8 bolt bellhousing) and the ver9 starter motor uses 2 bolts, which travel through the bellhousing and into the engine (8 bolt) however my engine is a phase 1 closed deck block (4 bolt type) do i -helicoil the lower hole in the bellhousing and make a large stud? or -drill out the block and tap a hole?

going on the gdb-012187 is a my02 sti prodrive model same engine and transmission as a standard sti IT IS NOT A SPEC C

KOOM-that gc8 rally car you speak of was the Marston coupe? i was speaking to dwight about diffs etc for mine and hes suggested this idea, which i beleive came from the setup that coupe had i decided im going to go with a LSD rear diff converted to 3.9 ratio. i might have one lined up, but will inspect and see whats in mine at the mo before i go buying bits

i know that nz replica version (the STI club promo car) very well as we gave it a large rebuild before it was shipped to australia for a tv program all the arms are factory gc8, but to get the offset better we used 25mm spacers and different offset wheels. the problem this then creates is a larger wheel turn arc for the front wheels, and also puts more stress on the wheel bearings if i was to build a wide body track car my rear suspension would have custom length lateral arms with full adjustment (for accurate toe). not sure what i route i would go with the front suspension design

ahoy i need to look at getting my diffs sorted to work with this 6 speed im fitting and one option which has been suggested is that i run the 6 speed ( i have a suretrac front with dccd centre) and run a 3.9 ratio with a welded up centre in the rear diff. this car will primarily be setup for gravel. if i was to mostly run a locked diff it would be gravel only and for tarmac spec i would probably swap over beforehand. i have atleast 2 diffs (probably 3) from early 93 wrx/ra's ready to go and a donor 3.9 crown wheel and pinion my suspension is non adjustable (ie no bounce/rebound control and no height adjustable) so tuning my suspension to the diffs to get it to handle isnt an option any thoughts club subbers?

vinning my car was a complete drama it went back 4 times over 2 months before it got re-vinned and in the end it cost me $1700 as they had to repair the sills. when it was moved around at (im guessing turners damaged auctions) it was moved with a forklift which put dents in the rear door and bent the sills, which is what i had to pay to get fixed and painted i guess the ra models are more susceptible (spelling?) to damage and your more likely to see the damage as they dont run the side skirts

plenty- yes HOWEVER there are really only 2 suppliers of rocker cover gaskets for subarus in nz. There are genuine gaskets or there are the ones supplied by Automotive Components LTD. the ACL gaskets are nowhere near as good as any genuine gaskets as they do not seal as well (as far as i am aware) thermostats are another example. aftermarket ones you normally buy from repco are no where near as reliable as genuine other parts you buy from repco/bnt/supercheap can be the same, BUT NOT ALL

well considering there is only 1 type of half moon seal (ie only one part number) youre probably doing something wrong or you could take a chassis number into your dealership then they are probably going to get it right. if it is a 98 std (SF5B type) then there will be only 2 types of rocker cover gaskets if it is a 97 STB (SF5 A Type) then there will be 3 types of rocker cover gaskets depending on what day the engine was built

buy genuine- aftermarket are nowhere near as good

all the franchise dealerships and workshops i have worked at have always replaced or skimmed the rotors before fitting new pads

well i doubt anyone in wellsford is going to have any! try any of your 4 winger dealerships in auckland or sublab whangarei they should be able to courier OH and ARMSTRONGS are only in Christchurch or Wellington

maybe the gear selector is broken?

there is no difference between the STI and standard WRX engine bearings on the same model year. for another opinion on rebuilds try Warren at Innovate autotech 09 273 2911 (ex PBMS). he does a lot of street spec subarus and may even have an exchange engine for you

you can bolt your 95 heads to the ver7 block and run it that way without too many issues

take your rego number or chassis number and go into your local subaru dealer

what sort of 2000 legacy? manual or auto? turbo or non turbo? etc amazingly enough not all 2000 legacys are the same!

the gc8 models with quickrack (ie WRX RA STI, Type R, 22B) had the same power steering pump than their base model counterparts (ie WRX STI, WRX, WRX RV LTD) so a standard pump should do, especially if your doing track work. gravel spec different story- im will be running a quickrack in my car in paihia this october, but im also running the STI p/steer cooler at the front too, so hopefully i wont overheat it, as some of those stages are quite tight and twisty (read: Goat tracks)

the earlier 6speeds (V7 and V8) superceed the 1st and 2nd gear when replacing the synchros, so can be an expensive exercise. the ver10 6speeds transfer has a different ratio. this means the front diff is 3.9 and the rear is a 3.454. spec c gearboxes (depending on model option) had a front facing gearbox oil cooler built into the radiator, so those boxes came with the cooler pipes along the side. some gearboxes had dccd centre while others had a viscous centre diff if i was to go for a 6 speed i would source a ver 9 spec c (like the one i have hey hey)

sti sports make a replacement speedo that goes to 280km (i have these in both my cars) trademe will be the best place to find these- as new ones are pricey due to exchange rate

sorry my bad i thought it was the speedo that stopped working if it is the tacho then it would be something electrical that is wrong and will need looked into