B4_685

Old thread, but check Air-Con idler - mine died and made a hell of a racket B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Interesting writeup about maximising TT setup rather than trying to parallel if you\'re interested http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=41358 B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

When you say you \'altered your ECV duty cycle\', im guessing you are talking about an ECU tweak? (Thinking about trying the .8mm hose 1 mod in my RevD) Interesting re: ECV stabilises primary boost comment. I\'ve noticed that running slightly higher boost levels (.8 bar target) with my EBC controlling wastegate, there is massive lag between gears if im pushing hard. If i run lower boost level, secondary doesnt reach full potential but spool up is quicker between gears (strangely enough) - any thoughts? Could be something totally unrelated...but am thinking about going back to stock boost control and troubleshooting properly 😎 B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

1940-50\'s Jap2A 4 stroke petrol engine coupled to externally regulated lucas alternator with my old fan belt cut split down the middle to make it a 3 rib Heres an old video of it running: B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Topped off tyres with home made generator and 12V compressor - realised I need to make a shroud for cooling as oil started bubbling and fuel tank started to get hot...💥 B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Read this http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,23735.15.html

BE Rev-D with HKS boost controller (non sequential). Looking to return it to stock with a 0.8mm restrictor pill as I want to re-use factory boost controller for better tuning results later on ; you alluded to the tuneable ECU: Id agree - much prefer to have ECU- table control of boost/ign timing so you can precisely map rather than just cranking it up with a non sequential/boost tap and watching a piston fly out the side....(not to mention our fuel here in the land of the \'engine failure induced\' long white cloud) I like the idea of porting WG too - wouldn\'t hurt to smooth some of the casting flaws and tease out the opening... Did some reading - anyone had any luck with ECU editing - specifically romraider and disabling rear o2 sensor CEL?

Hey man, thinking of deleting Cat - any issues with CEL for rear O2 on a stock-ish B4? I \'ve heard you can inhibit the CEL with the right software.. B4_685 via Tapatalk

Cool - that makes sense! B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

BE5 2001 - bought in 2010 with 96k - now 150,000 with noisey gearbox (was noisey when imported - nz new) - otherwise good B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Was it stalling before you put bov on? Did you do an ECU reset? Any changes to BOV plumbing from factory routing? Recirc air a common discussion point - but if your throttle is closed, where the air goes probably doesn\'t make all that much difference pre-throttle body off boost...in my humble opinion Apples and oranges - take what you want from it- had to tweak my idle up using laptop and OBD2 VagCom cable with "FreeSSM" software after doing \'hose10\' mod on my \'01 JDM B4to prevent stalling. Short story, factory plumbing has a controlled vacuum bleed that helps prevent Boost spikes/surge by \'leaking\' some boost back to inlet via bypass. ECU tuned to expect this so, short of tuning with expensive Tactrix cable, I just bumped the idle up 100rpm (once I eliminated the factory bleed, the idle dropped around 100RPM causing stalling/low idle exactly as you explained) with cheap ebay cable and runs fine. Only catch is that if you remove battery, you have to do it again. B4_685 via Tapatalk

I have no experience with said version - but as stated - check basics - grounds, coil getting voltage etc. could be as simple as a connector or as complicated as ecu fault...fuses? B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Don\'t ya hate that? Always makes you wonder if they\'re genuinely helpful or just trying to score the job...

Yup - comes on with rear window electric window demister

You know that aftermarket filters are manufactured to meet or exceed OE spec right? So if you are using an equivalent filter rather than the wrong one you will have no problems unless it fails. Yeah I know they do exceed OE spec - was more interested to hear from others whether there have been any horror stories of failure attributed to any particular brand (to steer away from). Obviously, filters are fairly low cost items and you wouldn\'t go buying crap from ebay or anything - just curious to see whether Subaru made filters flow any better than your regular Repco/Supercheap items or if you\'re essentially just paying for branding

I use the same oil - seems to work fine for me - stable oil pressures even on a warm day. Might just be me, but I do notice a little more valve train noise just off idle but goes away as quickly as it starts as rpm builds; could be my stupid clutch tho - anyone else noticed anything similar with lifters? (150k engine) Not trying to comment on consumer products or anything, but I was warned off any after market oil filters due to primary turbo \'limitations\' on the twins: any opinions?

50mm is huge ! maybe a decimal point got lost in translation... ;D I usually factor 250A per 50mm run when doing big, dumb s*** with 12V electrics. A starter will typically pull about 200A. Ideally you want 50mm (0ga) but 35mm (2ga) is fine as you\'re unlikely to crank for more than about 5 seconds. As for voltage drop, the resistance of a properly terminated (hydro crimped copper lugs) 50mm cable is measured in ohms per kilometre - about 0.322 of them - so 250A over 5m will give you a drop of 0.403v - which is actually not ideal, as you\'re losing approximately 100w of energy in heat throughout the length of the cable. Just to put the fear of god in you, if you get a short 1 metre into the cable, and you\'re running a 0.5 metre long ground wire with a 700CCA battery, the cable will be attempting to dissipate almost 9kw of heat and you will have a burning car real fast if you don\'t have a fuse. Either that or your new impromptu 700A/12V arc welder will rapidly punch a hole in whatever it\'s touching. Is a cable an Ohmic conductor? Lol Hehehe was just gonna throw my 2 cents in but you hit it on the head. Always funny when different levels of electrical knowledge clash....

Jacked up one side (was only jacking front but rear wheel came up too- awesome stiff construction!) and found i have cracked cv boot spraying grease on cat **Edit** - Drove up to Richard (SAS) and had new boot fitted in about 10 mins - cheers dude!

Just a thought - anyone fiddled with your idle air solenoid? I pulled mine off to clean it and the gasket inside, if not replaced can pump water in to the manifold because it has a water jacket to warm it all up...just a thought (BE5 B4) B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Im thinking ECU to injector pulse width is based on original injector sizing - will o2 sensor feedback loop correct this at all? (Rich signal sent to ECU to lean off by reducing injector pulse width?) im guessing open loop fuelling will be screwed as explained

Had a look under the hood after noticing some wisps of smoke coming from scoop when engine off- developed an oil leak somewhere near the primary....looks like its under the heatshield - any guesses?

Wof - need new front rotors soon...3rd warrant with the comment so better get some. Opinions on stock or aftermarket? Armstrong have great price for factory (non-slotted) so leaning in that direction... B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Is that the one you can hook up with the torque app? What sort of data do you get from it? I have the Torque app and a bluetooth OBD11 plug, Have not used it on a subaru but on the few hiace vans and a sprinter I have used it on pretty much any info you want/need is available. if it has a sensor for it then it should be able to read the data, on my driving screen I usually have boost,common rail pressure,speed ( gps and speed sensor) intake air temp,oil temp,oil pressure and water temp, I have Engine link HD and an iPad - works for OBD2 standard PID\'s. Subaru-specific SSM doesn\'t like the wifi (and/or Bluetooth) ELM 327 dongles - something to do with the data transmission encoding. You can pull CEL codes off though - for more detailed data, use an EBAY Vag-Com cable $20 from hong kong with learning view/laptop or Romraider software to read sensor data or read/write ECU with more expensive tactrix cable B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

Will keep eyes open

2001 RSK B4 - I think its always hot - when I plug in Wifi dongle, it lights the LED B4_685 via Tapatalk HD