Lol had a similar issue for a while and my boost tap would let pressure through to open the gate then it would wind itself shut and hold the pressure in and the gate stayed open and it made like 4psi by 7k
Changed the grub screw and it never happened again
Don\'t think that will be your issue since you had the heads done i reckon it\'s more likely a pre turbo exhaust leak?
Lol the blade made it through the intercooler? Ouch
What about all the vl commodores that have been fluttering away since new?
I rarely run a bov and when i do it\'s always set tight. I haven\'t had a turbo fall to bits neither has the mrs gt starlet.
It will be fine
Drove it for the first time since new years last time it got driven it was diesel with a slipping auto trans. Now petrol turbo manual. Great success!
Still niggly bits to tidy up now
Lol need to seal trans tunnel, got a bit smelly when i started to boost
Lol this is true.
Been pretty popular in the US people putting them on all the time and they sounded alright from what i heard. Have some sitting here doing nothing and figured if i could use them then i would for the sake of using spare parts i have
Ran a deatschwerks in my sti with no issues certainly seemed to keep up well (no dyno proof though)
Running a walbro this time round so will see how it goes. Walbro is a bit noisier than the deatschwerks supposedly
It\'s been done before, and this new wagon sounds so average lol
It sounds worse than annoying esp when people do it with a big exhaust or exhaust leak. Just bolts straight on afaik well ones Ive seen have.
I would leave the rest of the exhaust factory just thought it might be a gimmick for somebody buying it
"Makes dat rumble with cheap insurance" bitches love cheap insurance
Started it, run it up, filled it with water, got to operating temp, stayed there, minor leak to attend to.
So happy.
Anybody got a nissan manual driveshaft to sell me?
That would be flash.
Would need to be triggered by an unlock signal to keep current drae to a minimum but i reckon that\'s doable.
(Sarcasm)
I was meaning removing them entirely. If they aren\'t there they can try all they like
I have always thought an isolator switch in an invisible place in the main battery feed to the fusebox/vehicle would be sneaky too.
Run a low rated fuse across the isolator terminals for radio memory etc and if an attempts made to bridge to ignition or whatever they do then fuse blows
To say I am a little bit familiar with the workings of your average Class A/B car audio amplifier with a PWM MOSFET Switchmode power supply would be something of an understatement
But 400w is for little girls :-*
Bigger is for ricers