Guitar_Guy

I had a split CV boot that was flicking grease all over my downpipe on the passenger side in my old GT-B. It stunk every time I stopped the car at lights or got out. Didn't smell like burning rubber but didn't smell like burning oil either, was similar to when I accidentally cooked my clutch on a steep hill start. Rookie mistake....

Example: If you're going 60km/h in 4th gear sitting at 2000rpm, to maintain that 60km/h in 3rd gear the car must be revving more, say 3000rpm. That throttle blip jumps the car up from that 2000rpm to 3000rpm so when you click it into 3rd and release the clutch your car is already in the correct rev range for the gear at that speed. Hence it's a much smoother action that kicking it into 3rd and releasing the clutch with no throttle blip which results in what is essentially engine braking.

I ended up fitting a Genome muffler pretty happy with it, adds a bit of noise but its really quiet when cruising, nice compromise as I wasn't going for power increases or anything and no complaining from passengers about annoying drones and the like.

And ej255? Ringlands and all that?

Any word on how it went??

Interesting.... when I asked Subaru Speed (wanting some for my Foz and was recommended wagon struts) they said they were exactly the same...

^like. Super curious as to how it all went...

Not 100% sure about a standalone product but I know if you are running an AVS or Dynatron alarm they offer them as add ons.

Stone(s) in your exhaust heat shield maybe?? I had that in my first car, it was horrendous, had the shield chopped off and was never a problem after that.

Anyone have a link to car?? Want to see if I recognise it from when I lived there... and cause this thread has made me nosey about it!

You will be fine to adjust it to 50/50 if you do want a bit of venting cause lets be honest, who doesn't like it every now and again. It shouldn't affect performance either. As ADIKT said, running it at 100% atmo has been known to cause stalling and backfiring as well but it is unlikely. The reason it would have driven so poorly before is cause not only was it plumbed incorrectly, it wasn't plumbed at all.

What I'm picturing is The 50/50 GFB Respons BOV but it was originally installed bolted onto the TMIC, with the recirc hose being blocked off (like you would an HKS SSQV) not plumbed onto the recirc from the BOV, leaving it open, also the vacuum hose being left off as well.... I can only assume they have now hooked it up properly and set it to 100% recirc.

Could also be hydraulic lifters, piston slap perhaps? Not uncommon when cold but it's definitely a fast slap sound as opposed to solid knocking sound.

Falken Zeix Ze912.

Will be cool seeing my old wagon out on the track if thats what Sam is taking down!

^^This made my morning. Pure gold. Is there an awesome quote thread somewhere??

That is awesome! Thanks for the help.

Looking at fitting a fire extinguisher in my car in case I do end up taking it On the track at some point, also because they are just good to have. Supercheap currently have 1kg jobbies for about $20 at the moment Including a metal fitting bracket. Will this be up to track standard or do I need something more specific? Thanks!

A friend of mine bought a 3.0R recently after being a lover all things Euro for years... finally convinced him a Subaru was the way to go. He loves it, comfortable, rides well and is very smooth to drive. After I drove it I wouldn't look at anything other than 2l turbo or the 3l H6 engines. I have driven the equivalent 2l automatic Legacy and found it to be a bit gutless, great around town but as soon as you want to overtake it drops a gear, jumps to 5k+ rpm and screams its way past, kind of the price you pay for an underpowered engine in a heavy car (specifically the wagons). The 3.0R was effortless, didn't even have to try. The fuel economy was great too, with the right kind of driving you could comfortably get 600km to a tank on the open road. Towing with the 2l non-turbo wouldn't be particularly ideal either, not that it can't do it. It would just be pretty hard going depending on weight etc. I drive a 2.5l STi turbo Forester and when I need to buy something more realistic for my needs I will be shopping for a 3.0R Legacy for sure.

I dunno... these were a pretty cool little upgrade. Something to keep me busy while I work out what I actually want to do to the wagon.

Finally wired up my supertone horns after having them sit in my grill doing nothing for over a month... Got the other half to test them with me standing 5m from the front of the car, cannot get over the volume, absolutely insane!! Deafened me almost instantly. Can't wait to use them!!!!!!

^forgot about the ECU thing which was one reason I sold mine (rev C). I wanted something I could get re-flashed or tuned depending on mods but I wanted a change from the Legacy so didn't buy a rev D. Jumped up into the beautiful land of STi single turbo-ness.

@sobanoodle - that doesn't give me a whole lotta faith in them... But good to know! Clint, what can you rustle up for me?

Cheap because they are an older car, often high Kms and people are more interested in WRX's or anything with a single turbo over twin. I owned one, it had 185000kms on it and ran like a dream, it was manual with the ej208 twin turbo setup and couldn't fault it, fricken quick once the secondary turbo kicks in too not as quick off the line. If you get an auto you will have the ej206 motor which is only 260bhp, less than the 280bhp of the manual ej208 version. The market is just really hard at the moment for those trying to sell them so be aware if you buy one it will more than likely be hard to sell on again unless you drop the price to something ridiculous.

Came across this on the Pro-Wholesale website. http://www.pro-wholesale.co.nz/ultra-racing-strut-brace-sway-bar-chassis-bracing-products/sf5-sg9-forester/ I know they don't sell rubbish products but I don't know much about these, anyone who can shed some light on them for me? Or would Whiteline be better value?