Andy_Mac

Looks like japanparts.com has been hacked too. Someone over at subaru must be annoyed with all the cheap parts we're getting from japparts and partsouq rather than the stealerships... Japanparts.com was under a cyber attack a few days ago but have taken measures and got restored. It has been confirmed that all the data including e-mail addresses of the customer, addresses, names and phone numbers of the buyers have not leaked out. Please rest assured that credit card/Paypal information is not stored on the server. However, delivery information of the customer has been lost. So we are restoring it one by one based on the data saved elsewhere (only those customers who have purchased on new Japanparts.com. site) As a precaution, the password of the customer’s account has been changed. If you cannot log in with the registered password, please log in with a provisional password created at https://www.japanparts.com/reminder.php and change the password and review your information. If you have any questions regarding this, please contact us from here. We are sorry for all the trouble caused.

Took mine to the rubbish transfer station, guy thought i was a weirdo for leaving with the same weight i came with haha. Probably not the most accurate but beats internet guestimation

Is there any reason why you couldn't use nitrogen or co2 to pressurise the intake system to check for leaks? Have super low regs for both. The workshop air compressor hose isn't long enough to reach outside and as hard as i try the office guys don't believe a longer one is a good investment of company money...

Cracked the cheap crappy plastic ring that holds the shifter boot on, now she's flopping round like nobody's business. Could be a sign a short shifter is needed

Purely for the Evo wannabe front end, the rest is debatable... https://trademe.co.nz/833531860

Does a jdm 257 even exist? Thought they still use a variant of the 207 right up to the 2015 sti's Pretty sure the legacy's went from ej20x/y or similar straight into the FA/FB DIT ones too

Purely speculating here but alot of car manufacturers do this for appearance. In the 4th gens the 2.0i had a single but 2.0r had twin, bit of a performance difference between the two but not enough to justify needing it, purely a sporty dress up addition to bring the appearance closer to that of the top of the line cars.

Out of interest what does the 3 digits before the model code imply that rules out 2 digit cars?

BNT normally have a better selection of stuff like that. Was also cheaper than repco for the plugs in mine

S-gt?? Isn't that pretty much a rex without the widebody?

Yea it has 5 speed auto box. From what i can find they seem to only be cvt for 2.5i and normal auto option for gt and 3.6r Na si drive is purely ecu/ transmission stuff for autos. Changes throttle response mostly, and gear change points for autos.

Raijin would be a good one to get hold of for a tune. Road tunes so works out way cheaper since you don't have to book any dyno time. I did mine through a guy called cryotune in the states

Don't know where the 13psi came from but mine before a tune would boost up to 18.5psi and taper down to about 15 further up the rev range. When logged the stock tune was pretty messy. Have it setup now to 17psi tapering down to 15 and its a lot smoother. This is a vf45 though, essentially the ballbearing vf38. The vf38's journal bearings don't like over boosting and pack it in real quick. 18-19psi seems to be the max people go to with vf38's, but that's with a proper tune. Is his one nz new or import? And what year? There are two completely different engines within the bl/bp era. I had mine e-tuned Which needed a cable that was $200 plus tune was $250 if I remember correctly, and any future tunes/logging use the same cable. Even if you do just do a boost controller its'd be worth getting the cable just to see how safe it really is. What you see/feel may seem fine but you'd probably find it'll pull timing all over the place, especially if it's an import, and end up being no better off than without it. All I can really say is these are nice cars, not the cheap kinda ones you drive into the ground so why not just do it right and not have to worry that one day it'll croak it all for saving a couple of hundred bucks.

For imports 4th gens had 2.0L gt's, 3.0R, 2.5i and 2.0r 5ths had 2.5L gt's, 3.6r, and 2.5i, don't think they did a 2.0r off the top of my head but could be wrong. There was never a 3.3L option, that was just me writing faster than I think. There's absolutely nothing wrong with 4th gens, and since its a older design you can generally get a higher specc'd one for the same price as a base newer one. And not to mention they look better, in my eyes at least. If you had one in the past it was probably a twin turbo model which are horrendously over thought and over engineered and just a complicated bastard when things go wrong. Newer ones are a lot more reliable, as with most newer cars out there. The mcintosh setup is just the up market stereo they put in that's a real pain to do any sort upgrades on, sound is pretty good but lacks any real inputs. Sounds like a 4th gen 3.0r auto would be your best bet if it's in the budget. From what others say the 3.0r's actually get better economy than the 2.5i since the motor doesn't have to strain itself as much, sure some of the auto lovers out there have figures to back it up.

You shouldn't be concerned about the 3L engines wearing the tranny out. the 2.5 would probably be worse if anything as it has ALOT less power so will have to change gears more often to stay in a useable powerband. Also incase you hadn't realised the 3.0L engines were taken away with the 5th gen legacy's, 2008/09 onwards and went to 3.6L. So if you're sure the 3.6L isn't for you you'd have to go to the older style. They all need a band expander at the very least, though their performance can be quite crap in some instances. If you are looking at a car with a base stereo, vs optioned mcintosh one, then swapping out the headunit is a simple process and gives you bluetooth usb and all the rest for a couple of hundred bucks.

Was the flywheel machined when the new clutch went in?

Dunno if armstrongs would give it out. Tried doing that with the tauranga subaru since their prices were going to bankrupt me and they told me it was company policy to never give out part numbers. Maybe if you're in the trade you'd have a bit more luck though

Dynamat the doors and boot Catback exhaust + gutted downpipe Sti front lip Those work CR kiwami's that i've been dreaming of forever And yea, the list will surely grow throughout the next few months

Ah man, where was that one a month ago when i was up. I was literally a 2min drive from there

killer new years spot, car didn't appreciate the gravel road though

http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz

If you can get hold of a engine parts list surely partsouq is your best bet

If it was a blocked filter or piping airflow would be limited not just colder. Not sure if they have two separate heater coils to do left and right or just one, assuming two to provide the differing temps with airflow remaining the same. so you're best bet would be to look into trying to flush the coil/coils as they are probably quite blocked preventing coolant from passing through them. Hence no heat

Cool. Ok i'll give the resistance a check. Always get the open/closed loop stuff muddled up. So closed loop is only when the cars cold and goes into open once warmed up and then the o2 sensor isn't used anymore after that? So if thats the case would you say that the sensor not reading once in open loop doesn't actually matter and just stay off boost and limit throttle when cold which is what i do normally anyway? So other than for logging it isn't used all that much?

Longer than i would have thought it would. Haven't accurately measured it but it can be 5-10mins after engines up to temp, unless i give it a bit of a boost which quickens it up, hence thinking the element is gone.