Andy_Mac

They all have fuel rails. If they don't have split rails then the last cylinder can get a fuel shortage under high loads. Basically in stock form think of it as one big loop going to the cylinders one after the other so if the fuel pressure isn't keeping up then the last one in the line will get low. The split rail mod splits the flow into two paths left and right heads each get a dedicated line. And in general keeps things more even between each cylinder. Haven't done it myself so my knowledge is purely from reading others experiences so someone who has physically done it themselves will probably do a better job explaining it. Beat me to it adikt. Also if car is stock, as you say its the first mod you're thinking about, i wouldn't really say its needed. People only seem to do it on medium to large power builds

Yea non of those ones have worked since the update

Working fine for me

Full audio install. Amps, sub, speakers, all the wiring so gonna be a long one at this rate. Pulled everything right back so i can have all the cabling tidier this time around. Yea pretty much just those two bolts. Move the seats completely forward to get to the bolts and then remove the gearstick surround amd you'll see a clip kinda thing there. You'll see some screws there too, not needed for the centre console even though they look like they are. Once the front ones free just give it a firm tug, i normally lift from the back, and it'll come up. Haven't worked out how to separate the handbrake setup yet so just have the whole thing sitting in the drivers seat.

Made a mess, achieved f*** all

dented the sill on the van a while back, cost the business almost a grand to fix up. Thank god for our box of beers for f*** up's policy.

Always interested to see people taking on projects different to the norm but is it really worth the effort in this case. I never found the mcintosh setup to be that great. Always seemed to be lacking in my opinion and will be happy once mines gutted out and new stuffs in its place. Also remember the mcintosh systems don't have aux or anything like that so unless you're a real fan of cd's connectivity is behind the times. Just my opinion really, I know a lot of people out there think this system is awesome.

For boost gauge i'm guessing? Why not just the bov/bpv line

That gold ones actually a Nissan sunny base with that horrendous front tacked on for the japs according to carjam. So they took a terrible car and somehow made it even worse..

Sweet. I'll give nz post a ring tomorrow and see what they suggest

Oh that sucks then, I figured since some rev c's came with and some without then it was just a matter of dropping it in. http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=25730

http://www.partsworld.co.nz/parts/subaru/legacy/6506_be5+98-03/81_instruments/75972 Probably a bit steep but that's the kind you're after, even try find someone wrecking one on trademe and see if they have the blackout style Couldn't tell you if the wiring between auto and manual is compatible, different ecu so maybe not? But going to a blackout one from a manual would definitely work. Have you already got one from an auto?

That's nothing to do with auto or manual. That's just the style the gauges went to from late in the rev c cycle, mine was a 2000 rev c and that had the blackout ones. You should be able to find a manual version easy enough through wreckers.

Anyone know roughly how long items can be at customs for? Got some stuff from japanparts and their tracking system shows it made it to nz customs on the 24th but haven't heard any more. If they were pinging me for tax I would have thought something would have made it my way by now to tell me

Been fiddling with some antenna wires behind the dash to try sus out the reception issues i'm having. Needless to say i'm getting myself nowhere and getting into an even worse hole than i was in to start with. Now my question is what am i supposed to do with the mesh type wire on a coax cable? Does it need to be in contact with itself throught the length of the cable, even through joins? The internet seems to say both yes and no depending where you look. With the way they all plug in with the sprung metal outer on most i would have thought it does. Or is it just the centre wire that matters.

Noticed a bit of a squeak from the rear end yesterday when cornering. Did a couple of rapid back n forth turns once on a straight bit of road to try replicate it, dedinately from rear passenger side, did it a few times then went away. Got home and had a look underneath to see whats up and found the sway bar was way off centre and the bush must have been rubbing on the bars bend. Worth worrying about or just something that happens from time to time? Thinking of geting a thicker whiteline one at some point and will get some of the bar clamps at that point to hold it all together.

Yea I always thought that myself. Looks a tad rough with a coat of black paint to try hide the imperfections. If you want to do that then just hold off on one completely as it won't work with a sti style turbo. Better off putting that money towards the sti setup

If by open Ecu you mean re flashable, then yes and no. Only person I've heard of that can really do anything thing to those ones is Raijin.

Even the subtech on trademe is a hundy cheaper than retail

The wrx downpipe will fit but nothing has the same turbo bolt pattern. The legacy twinscroll pattern is one of a kind, some Asian bugger should have been fired for that horrible decision! So unless you want to buy a wrx one, cut the flange off and try get a legacy flange put on they won't work. The options really are just the subtech one or something from a jap brand which will cost a fortune. The one rossub listed is the subtech one, which of course you've stated in the past you aren't keen on. Only other way is custom made of course.

Very nice

Hadn't heard that about the cvt's. I'd always heard subaru's were one if the safest bets if going cvt. Also at that age all are cam belts except the 3.0l 6 cylinder ones

Since the speakers will try get the impedance they need they will try pull 4ohms from the amp which may not be designed to run at 4ohms. Wouldn't know if it would kill the amp or not without knowing the exact specs of it. Could be over heating it. Guess amps could crackle/distort if things get too hot?? Definitely not recommended. I could be wrong but I don't think impedance works exactly the same as standard resistance where you could use a resistor to achieve what you want. Doesn't it continuously vary with note/volume? Also getting a new headunit for mine so I'll be able to run it without the converter so the one I have will be up for sale soon.

The stock struts are the same between both so you'd say coilovers would be the same too

Actually yea you're prob right, outback ones look a bit more washed out Couple more of mine to keep the 4th gen trend going