Andy_Mac

Bought a new one....

they were like $12 bucks from subaru. Took awhile though as they don't usually carry them so had to come all the way from japan

Is getting a lower arm bar all that beneficial or is just a strut brace enough

Yea BNT should be able to do those plugs for around $80 if you don't want to wait for amazon

Dropped down to $13k now, bloody good buy. Would consider it myself but think i definately need a wagon this time around

Can we ask who it was. Wouldn't wanna end up going to that same place

https://touch.trademe.co.nz/motors/listing/view/729222701 Pretty good price for a fecelift spec b Shame its all the way down in chch

Oh for f sake. Just got it. Forgot to plug in the connector to the hazard button.

Na doesn't work pressing that either

Just had a thought. Hooked everything back up and tried arming the alarm, indicators worked fine for that. So i guess its something not quite hooked up right in the dash? Doesn't work when pressing hazard button either.

Yea absolutly nothing happens when the levers flicked. Sweet, yea thought it would be separate. And yep battery has been disconnected the whole time. Checked all fuses, engine bay and cabin. Guess i gotta go down the path of pulling it all apart again to see if somethings loose.. On a side note the sequential controller is working mint!

Are the indicators at all wired into the ecu loom or are they run separately? Have had a play round with the ecu wiring and pulled the instrument cluster apart to find a blown bulb so don't really wanna have to go down the path of completely pulling both sides apart again. Would the dash need all the bulbs in to complete the circuit, seems like a long shot but i removed the blown one so could that affect it?

What generation legacy is it?

What are you putting in?

Keen to see some pics of what you've got there

Stuffed up royally.... Wired up 90% of my sequential controller using the wiring diagram but was looking at the wrong side of the ecu plugs so now gotta start all over again. FML

Are the gaps set correctly. Even buying the correct plug for the car doesn't necessarily means the gaps are set to the right value for your car. And its a long shot but have you possibly knocked the tips on the old ones and stuffed the gaps on them too?

Surely you could just thread some sort of brass type fitting onto there if its only one thats broken

Also make sure the boost gauge isn't tee'd into the bov line on the manifold. Will give not quite right readings. Mine was when i got it and had only 10vac so probably not your issue, but worth checking

Look to the top left and you shall find it

Not officially. Looked into doing it myself as mine has a slight leak. Subaru don\'t make seal kits but people around the net just find the right generic seals and use those.

and it\'s not normally that warm, had been sitting there running for quite a while

i\'ve cleaned the iacv before, was pretty gunky, didn\'t do the chamber though so should maybe give that a go. na mines a rev c. i think o2 is ok seems to be fluctuating as it should. car was already warmed up when i did this so will have to probably wait until tomorrow to do one from cold. o2 seems ok to me. looking at the lean/rich on/off line, would you expect it to be doing nothing when cold and then cycling whilst warm, or would the value still be registered but ignored, would help with rossubs idea if so https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cT3UGipeSo

Na they\'re not, well not enough to notice. Na boost gauge stays fairly stagnant. Always around 5-10 inhg. Thought it could be something boost related but as long as the gauge is reading right its below the point that iit\'d be the turbo spooling up enough to make any boost. Can you assume temp sensor is sweet if the dash gauge starts from cold and goes up to the first line, halfish way up? Also talking to marky the other day and he mentioned a second temp sensor used for cold starts i think it was. Anyone had problems with that before

Always had a fairly prominant surge when there\'s some load on the engine when cold. Always figured it was just a shot afm but got a replacement which hasn\'t seemed to fix it, car definately feels different but probably just down to resetting the ecu. Is there any chance its down to the primary turbo? It always seems worst as its getting closer to 0 on the boost gauge. The turbo is pretty whiny so could that being buggered cause a similar effect?