Andy_Mac

Nothing new, but confirms what others have said regarding the pre facelift mcintosh. http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=23981

If you get the 3-port direct from grimmspeed when you get to ordering chuck BECAUSETHANKYOU in the coupon section to get 15% off, or BECAUSEGRIMMSPEED for 5%. Not sure if you can use both or just one. Worked out way cheaper through them than any NZ places could do for mine. Sure you can get the standard MAC valve versions alot cheaper but you typically don't get any mounting brackets or a plug so have to cut it into the existing wires.

Partsouq is the way to go for that kind of stuff. Or from Subaru but you pay alot more. Shipping kills it through partsouq if you only want a couple though. Got a whole load of them a few weeks back and replaced all of them since 90% of them were completely stuffed. Top one will do the engine bay stuff and the bottom one is for bumpers and other larger pieces. Worthwhile getting them aswell to offset the shipping cost.

You mean those kind of connectors? Subaru to iso ones for connecting new HU's? Don't bother with them myself, always just hack the one that comes with the HU into the stock wiring. Not sure why CAN would come into the stereo side of it. Unless the clock is connected to it to source the fuel data maybe http://abtec.co.nz/Installation_Products_Radio_Looms

There is a clock relocation panel you can get to relocate it to where the ciggy lighter sits below the A/C. Works for the permanent setups but will leave a gap up there if you're thinking about doing it like mcdoof and having it removable. https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/13925

All in all, there are some that can be split and others that are very definately one piece Pinched that off trademe just now, was on a 03 model. If the current stereo looks like that setup then the whole kit is required.

Either way we get screwed really. Don't believe it can be done that way with the Mcintosh unit.

Ya. Or maybe he wants to keep his true identity a mystery...

Do you have single/dual aircon? Does you air con separate from the HU? Some can, some can't. Makes a difference to what kit you can use Thats one of the single zone A/C versions http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/accessories/auction-987688916.htm Can't get them much cheaper overseas really. Exchange rate and shipping tends to even it up a fair bit

Some current stuff over there http://www.subyclub.com/topic/6585-be5-2003-legacy-rsk-b4/page-6#

There's no way corrosion/rust will be an issue for that short of a period. Mine can easily go 5-6 weeks without being driven a handfull of times a year when work takes priority. Sure there's a fair few others on here that leave theirs just as long.

Got one of these making its way across the ditch as we speak, along with a post MAF pipe. Quite a list of things available there. They're smaller than the likes of the Perrin ones but they are actually correct for our cars. The Perrin ones have an extra inlet for the 2.5GT which the 2.0GT models don't need. They are slimmer so in theory should be alot easier to install, unless going for huge gains there shouldn't be any noticeable difference. Way way cheaper than any of the alternatives too since the Aussie dollar is fairly close and US is such a bastard right now. Need to be a member of the forum to view I believe http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=20888&sid=b519b55dadb77c9803297ece7cb75d9f

Word on the street is removing the milk bottle/silencer from the bottom of the stock intake is good for better spool and more choo choo noises

Sure you may not need a gauge to tell that its different to normal, but it'll be practically impossible for anyone on here to diagnose without knowing what its doing, any suggestions can only be wild stabs in the dark.

Yea can confirm the one Marky has works for rev c's, only ever used through the laptop though. Did a bit of research at the time and none of the cheap bluetooth ones would work for anything older than the rev d's. Got the same one as him sitting there doing nothing too.

North of 250 for a tactrix. Didn't think they worked on pre rev d legacy's? Or do they log alright but just can't use the flashing side of it?

Yea had planned to but was about 5mm below the bumper as it was when driving up to it. Just need to make the bottom step a couple of hundred longer and she'll be spot on

It was mainly so i didn't get too excited and go off the other end

Why buy average ramps when you can create equally average ones for free ay, mine don't particularily like being left out in the rain for a week at a time though, since my projects never seem to get done before some rain comes in. Made them some raincoats out of an old tarp. Might need to make another set out of some more weather friendly wood next time...

Ricey rice deluxe Its a crime spending that much to make a auto 2.0 N/A look that way, just to get beaten by granny and her swift at the lights. Could have almost had a real stock one with that kind of visual modding budget.

Just get rid of it ay, no one ever actually gets it replaced. It only ever runs for the first minute or so to try warm the cat up quicker, but if you've replaced your exhaust its probably doing nothing. Will only cause problems if you remove it and don't disable the codes. And also you need to keep the atmospheric pressure sensor and get the blocking plates. Might pay to do a bit more research and confirm whether the sti uses the same codes disabled. How-to for Legacy's with the same system http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2007-2009-air-pump-delete-cel-codes-and-ecu-fix-140259.html?t=140259&highlight=Secondary+air+pump There's your code explanation list http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/obdcodes.txt And that's what the block off plates look like http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/lic-073109-lic-motorsports-air-pump-delete-plates

Enquired with Xforce about the 184/194 part difference for the two GT wagon items they sell, they've said its related to the factory hp rating, and differs because the later model had 10hp more. It's only listed as 06-09 so I think its safe to assume they're referring to kw not hp. Since when they swapped to the 2.5 they dropped the power to 185ish kw, hadn't heard of this power jump midway through the facelift model though. Clears it up either way.

I do quite like that, quite subtle compared to most

Front Whiteline swaybar sussed. Ended up being alot easier than expected. Came with those relatively new to the market greaseless bushings which will be interesting, beats regreasing every few months. Also replaced some exhaust gaskets. Got pissed off with the lower downpipe bracket bolt not threading in nicely, i'll blame the last guy for starting to crossthread it So ended up cross threading the **** out of it till there was absolutly no thread left. Welded a new bolt to the bracket and she's good as new

That black bottom brace. The one that has a few of the bolts already removed. The front swaybar normally sits on top of it