KiwiJoe

Oops, I didn't spot that typo! I've edited the steps to correct it. There are two ways to enable and disable the alarm chirp for USDM Legacys, but neither work for JDMs, and I haven't found one that works. Yet. The distance remaining number is just an estimate based on average fuel consumption over the last 30km. If you start driving more aggressively when the fuel tank is nearly empty, you could run out much sooner, but the computer wouldn't know and would continue to suggest you had a few kilometres left; hence the maximum distance indication is 40km. Below that it won't give you an estimate and just tells you to fill up. The owner's manual says: "If the driving range is shown as “---”, there is only a tiny amount of fuel left in the tank. You must refuel the vehicle immediately."

No, there's no anti-carjack lock. To add that feature, you'll need to install an aftermarket system.

If you want to enable the alarm horn on a JDM BL5: 1. Make sure all passenger doors and the boot are closed. 2. Hop into the driver's seat and close the door. 3. Put the key into the ignition and change it from 'Accessory' to 'On' three times within ten seconds (Acc>On>Acc>On>Acc>On). Leave it on On. 4. Immediately open the driver's door then close it. 5. The status of the security system is shown on the trip meter. Security alarm: ON or Security alarm: OFF (handily this is one of the few configuration items that's all in English). To turn it on (if it's off) push the driver's door lock switch forward three times. To turn it off (if it's on) push the driver's door lock switch back three times. The trip meter display will update. 6. Turn the key to off. Done. The immobilizer key will always flash twice while the alarm system is also on. To test, lock the car with your remote keyfob and wait for 30 seconds (the alarm standby time), then unlock the driver's door with the key and open it. If you do this inside a garage, wear some earplugs as it's bloody loud (kill the horn by disarming with the keyfob).

I do have some small modifications, but use the factory ECU. It's fully programmable.

I have an 07 Spec B, and found SI-Drive pretty pointless. 'I' was unpleasantly sluggish, and acceleration in 'Sport Sharp' was so manic I often felt like I was going to drive up the back of the car in front when moving slowly through heavy traffic. Sport was linear, and that's really all you need to properly control your car. Last year I had my ECU tuned by Spec Performance in Christchurch, and each of the three modes now has distinct performance differences, including boost pressure. This is how it should have always been, in my opinion, but I can imagine Subaru didn't want to accept the legal implications and liability of allowing on-the-fly power changes. *Oh, and here's another little Legacy tip: if you want to know how much fuel you have in the tank without putting a key in the ignition, just press the trip meter knob. The fuel gauge will light up and move to the fuel level, and the trip computer screen will light up and show how far you travelled since it was last reset.

Try these:

I use Stu from Stubaru Service Centre. Knows his stuff.

Took the BL GT in for a service. Got some second-hand Zero Sports engine bay jewellery delivered, gave it a tidy/clean, and installed the Cool Action Intercooler Splitter (nice and easy). The last person who had it in their car had totally messed it up, and it would have been performing much worse than stock, so a good chunk of time was spent cleaning up the perished foam and crap all over it. I couldn't get the radiator shroud on as the screw holding the hood latch wouldn't budge, and started to look a bit chewed up. At least the shroud now looks nice and shiny on the garage floor. Maybe have another go at it later...

Both my current and previous Legacies were B4s and sedans.

How hard is it for a mechanic to check the cam belt? Mine has been done according to a Japanese sticker on the engine, but you never know with an import...

Took my Legacy to a repair shop for an insurance repair quote after someone kindly drove up the back of me on the way home yesterday (pissing down in Christchurch).

I would get the car in better condition, if you can afford it. The 23k difference in mileage is nothing on that engine, but all things being equal, a better condition car is likely to have been better treated and in turn is likely to be kinder to you and your wallet down the line. There aren\'t any major differences between the NZ and JDM 3.0Rs: same power and features. If it\'s a facelift model you\'ll get English on the dash display, and on the LCD nav if it has it. If it\'s a NZ model with a factory stereo you also won\'t need a band expander, and you might also be able to get a service history in English, which is priceless.

It will only work if you have the original remote key fob. If you have it, unlock the doors normally, then hold the driver\'s door handle up for six seconds. When it starts to beep hit the unlock button on the factory key. Pull the handle to set the code you want (4 digit or 5 some facelift, handle lifts equal numbers: 2 pulls = 2 etc.), waiting for a single short beep between each number. When it starts beeping rapidly, enter the sequence again to confirm. When finished it will beep once for a second. Sequential numbers or simple repeating strings (1234, 4321, 1111 etc) won\'t be accepted.

My 07 BL definitely doesn\'t have traction control. VDC is a collection of different technologies, and BL/BP have many of them as standard, but not traction control. If you have traction control, you can manually disable it temporarily with a VDC Off button (far right button of the three under your electric rear view mirror adjustment knob), but the rest of the VDC systems remain on permanently.

I emailed them about the same exhaust at the end of last year, saying I had an 07 Legacy. My question: The reply:

Pretty sure it\'s for the ejector seat.

Yeah, so do I.

That was a factory ECU reflash in a BL Legacy.

I used Spec Performance for my tune. Flat rate of $800 and it took two days for three unique tunes using SI Drive.They seem to know what they're doing, but their business ethics are pretty suspect. I wouldn't use them again.

Spec Performance also do remaps in Christchurch. I\'ve used and them and would recommend.

I keep an eye out for GT go-fast bits and pieces on Trademe, and saw this on there yesterday. I don\'t see too much for the 3.0 on there, so thought you guys might be interested: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/auction-682461473.htm

Get a can of MAF cleaner and give it a blast first. Less than $20 and definitely worth a shot. If that doesn\'t work maybe try a second hand one from a wrecker. They\'re super easy to replace yourself. I\'ve had some go and there doesn\'t seem to be a pattern, just luck of the draw. Do you have a standard air filter or an after market one?

Sell it and buy a manual, or learn to live with it.

- You can reset the trip computer by holding down the trip button in the dash cluster (it\'s a little button in the bottom right-hand corner of the dash, below and to the right of the fuel gauge). You can\'t change the language, but you can get it physically modified to a new system (for loads of money, $669) by someone like this: http://www.aboutsound.co.nz/Navigation.html - This is a Japanese ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) card holder. You may also find a thin transponder (or some residue from its removal on the glass) behind your rear view mirror. It\'s completely useless, and usually removed by dealers when the car is imported. Either rip it out yourself or see an auto electrician before it drives you crazy (see next point). - The talking is probably coming from the ETC device, and politely asking you to insert a card that you don\'t own and which wouldn\'t work anyway. - You can get a translated version of the Japanese manual on Trademe (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/manuals/auction-680564524.htm), or search online for a US version which is similar, but not exactly the same (like at http://www.scribd.com/doc/2265204/Subaru-LegacyOutback-2008-Owners-Manual or http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ for a full service manual). The translated manual on trademe is for a pre-facelift model so doesn\'t cover some of the features of the newer model (with SI Drive, if that\'s what you have) like keyless door opening or setting birthday reminders, but you can piece a lot of it together by also reading the US version. *Edited for service manual goof.

Don\'t need a key in the lock. Unlock, then hold the door handle up for six seconds. When it starts to beep hit the unlock button on the factory key. Pull the handle to set the code you want (4 digit or 5 some facelift), waiting for a single short beep between each number. When it starts beeping rapidly, enter the sequence again to confirm. When finished it will beep one for a second. Sequential numbers or simple repeating strings (1234, 4321, 1111 etc) won\'t be accepted.