A_J_T

Idk why people remove AC from their builds in the first place but i understand we are all different so all to their own. Has AC been completely deleted from yours, condenser, evaporator etc? Imo just put AC back in it, there is no replacement for AC. Keeps your car dry and warm in the winter and cool and pleasant in the summer you dont have a flipped mani or alternator relocated in yours so just move that FPR and plop AC back in, might be a bit of a mission but not impossible.

While rolling?

Unacceptable, posting useful information without explaining your current state of mind and intended tone of voice will be taken as passive aggressive douchebaggery. This is the INTERNET.

There should be no delay with an electronic gauge unless its rubbish, I run one of the classic STI Genome Defi gauges with the controller and its pretty sweet. I also have a couple of the digital Prosport EVO series gauges, Oil pressure and Temp. they are nice but viewing angle is horrible. at night its fine but in the day you cannot make out the numbers unless its setup facing you directly. mine are mounted in one of the radio dins just sitting flat "not orientated towards either driver or passenger" so rather useless during the day.

Best clutch i've had is the below, make sure you get either a new flywheel or get it skimmed Organic Clutch Disk 30100AA900 STI Clutch Pressure Plate 30210AA520 Clutch Spigot/Pilot Bearing 806212020 Clutch Release Bearing 30502AA130

Some people have trouble getting these times in their WRXs, TTs are no joke aye. they get allot of flak and people saying ST them but they are a pretty sweet package for the coin you get get one at these days. The BH/BE is not much heavier than BG but feels fat due to the 4.1 ratio box. iirc BG has 4.444? its not a huge difference but launching 4.111 feels so nasty, all the clutch slip.

I put down a 14.2 in mine. have the time slip at home somewhere. That was when i cared about it, pretty positive i could have done better

I really have no knowledge on the hatches but i would have thought the mounting and everything is the same from base model up to sti. cert for just coilovers will be $400-500

Those Tein's are probably not a bad buy depending on how low they go. Coilovers need cert though so keep that in mind when it comes to total cost

@Dairusire where is the garage thread so everyone can banter off about it without hijacking this thread.

Looks spooly. super hot day and average intercooler is disappointing, Whats the boost look like, got that sheet? how much boost is it hanging onto when it hits peak power?

Nope, only the primary has a wastegate so its the same as plumbing in boost control on a WRX or any single setup.

Better to have ECU manage boost so it can handle correction and tapper boost etc

@1randomkiwi

@patrickc22 Id just replace the stock boost solenoid, or get a boost T to manage boost until someone will tune it on a 3 port but idk how 3 port works on the TT setup.

Ok, so I was having a play in the weekend and noticed that when launching ECUFlash it looks for the definition associated to the Internal ID, in this scenario it has identified that the ROM is from an ECU with an Internal ID of: A4SH701H "see first pick below".so it has loaded up the definition from the definition directory that has the matching ID. The Problem is that particular definition is DTC def only so only does trouble code deletion as Andy said above. What i then did was took a look in the definition directory and can see someone has written a more in depth definition for the 2002 USDM Legacy b4 with the ID: A4SHC00H So what i thought is sure its a different ECU and ID but most of the tables will remain the same. so i edited the A4SHC00H definition and told it to be A4SH701H And there you go, it now uses that definition. PS. TT boost management is next level wack ^

Got this working by editing one of the definition xml's. details to come when im not so busy. @patrickc22 can confirm yours has not been tuned and should be on stock boost close to 14.5 psi

Changing the length of vac lines can effect the way things respond increase/decrease latency etc. just do it and test. can add or remove restrictor pills or increase/decrease size of vac hose to compensate if it moves or messes with the VOD but id think it will be fine.

You getting dba rotors from NZAD? Dont touch NZAD rotors thats with 12 months give or take, 10,000 ish on them

if there are no leaks and the pedal feels normal/hydraulics are all working etc it sounds like the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel. sometimes they can kinda fuse to the flywheel for no apparent reason. if they sit for ages i've seen it happen or if its overheated and parked, maybe moister and a little rust develops overnight similar to what brakes do idk if you have experienced that either but handbrake sometimes seize on overnight under the correct conditions. A real backyard way of sorting it is start the car and rip it into revers with a very sudden but firm pull. That usually shocks the disk off the flywheel, or screws revers gear. seen it done once in desperation and it worked a treat haha Has to be revers, no synchros on revers gear

Yea thats exactly the idea, disable all notifications,sound and vibrations etc. just sits in there dormant as until you need it.

I'm back. Think this is a def issue but unsure as it appears to be using the correct defs. Plugged into @patrickc22 car and pulled the rom off it to see whats going on and try find out if its been tuned as a previous owner suggest it has and its running wonky boost levels. when i pulled the rom off it shows all the below information but the "Boost Control - Target" table along with most other tables is not expandable/non editable? Any suggestions. appears to be using the correct definitions as below no rush on this just interested to know why it wont read.