A_J_T

all apple devices natively support find my phone so thats why i suggest iPhone. Any smart phone will work but 3rd party apps suck imo. i have no android experience but i believe they support Google tracking too so that would work. A setup which i have seen work is an older iPhone 4s wired in somewhere to charge when ignition is on, ideally hidden but thats up to the individual. turn off mobile data for basically everything except find my phone and then pop a prepaid sim in it with a $19 data plan or something and add it to your carrier account. dont top it up just leave it with no credit. car goes missing throw $20 on the number and it will automatically renew the plan. then track it. I have seen this done and tested multiple times and it seems to work. Some people are paranoid and choose to keep it topped up on a monthly basis and check in on it now and then but thats a monthly cost. Thing i like about this is even if they pull the battery from your car if you configure an iphone correctly it will sit in its super secret location running on battery for days.

old iPhone, prepay sim

Tracks dont kill cars, drivers do. make sure the oil is full, like properly full and run an oil pressure gauge. If you dont have slicks chances are you cant even get around quick enough for oil starvation to be an issue. All the horror stories are over dramatized, no reason to avoid an awesome track.

@Passtheacid @evowrx Yea i've heard mixed results, comes down to personal preference at the end of the day with things like this i think. Murch mentioned to me that most VFs will hold up to no BOV just fine on near stock boost as they are small and rotating mass is low. I ran without one for a while but with my application there is a noticeable difference when rolling through gears like a nana and coming off full boost in lower rpm and feathering the throttle there is shuddering and surge that just doesn't feel awesome. This topic has been beaten to death so many times its painful, end of the day 9 times out of 10 BOV or no BOV the turbo isint going to blow up or fly to pieces, possibilities of it outliving some of your other mods are higher than anything else. you are both running no MAF, i wouldn't be surprised the running no BOV messes a little with MAF'd cars similar to how venting does

Depending on how much boost you run and what turbo a BOV/BPV is not a absolute necessity. but running none messes with the drivability and boost characteristics. imo a street car should have a bov for making it smooth on lazy shifting and to simply ensure reliability. no need to put something through more stress just because you can. Only time you benefit from no BOV is when smashing gears and the throttlebody never really has a chance of closing for more than a very brief moment. If you want to make Tuututut noises blank the BOV off now and then, you will get sick of it very quick. If its about cutting costs use a stock BPV, they hold over 20psi fine specially with a little encouragement from a hammer

Unless you plan on boosting your lawnmower a VF32 should only ever be removed

You can do better. What do you plan on using this for?

ahh ok, i did not realize that. So its probably as good as it can be. i trust DTech have done a good job. just interested in gaining some knowledge on the topic this is an interesting read; http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tuning-electronic-engine-management/134360156-wtf-tuning-part-2-turbocharger-101-basic-boost-control.html

Sooo from my limited knowledge on wg duty this looks ok but i thought to get better and more ball and spring mbc sudden spool feel i would run closer to 100 on the wg duty at low rpm... thoughts?

Ok im in. Was just me being a muppet as i suspected, in my rush last night i didnt join the 4 pin flash connectors properly. got under the dash again and realized the wire id used to jumper the 4 pin flash block were not seated properly.

Have heard bad things about that manifold and up-pipe, flexi pre turbo is never a good idea imo, up-pipe larger than 1.75in is just lowering the velocity, it wont be a restriction unless your running a larger turbo.

Yea thats basically the conclusion i came to. Logging works fine so pretty sure i didn't buy a dud Tactrix. have tried a couple USB cables but have not double checked my jumpers and connectors under the dash. Also apparently there is a knack to getting into these. There is a very narrow window between the ECU booting and then going into Test mode that ECUFlash needs to jump into. Will have another play tonight. Cheers guys for all the help.

Model: 2001 BE5D Legacy B4 Displacement: 2L 9:1 comp Mods: ST Conversion, VF34-P20, 3in TBE, FMIC Fuel: BP 98 Tuner/dyno: Dave - DTech, Dynapacks

Cheers for the info man i'll have another play tonight I will when i have a setup that requires it haha, currently just trying to have a play with increasing launch control rev limit as its a little low to hop off the line and a little data logging

Yea makes sense, stock ECU but its single turbo conversion tuned by DTech. It is possible its locked but will look into it further when i get the time

yea i have tried each one. only the 2001-2005 wrx one seems remotely close

@Andy_Mac CAL ID: A4SD900B ECU ID: 1B04490605 this is the error i get in EcuFlash, I have it in test mode and the 4 pin plug jumpered. i've tried all relevant Subaru definitions listed, that being said i updated the subaru definitions into the metadata folder as it suggest but it doesnt list them in the vehicles. I'm aware its probably me missing something basic so no panic i'll keep readying away at all the stuff i should know before actually getting my fingers on editable junk

@Andy_Mac @Marky So i have a Tactrix and had a play around last night, can datalog with Romraider ok but cant get Ecuflash to open ECU to backup the existing Rom before having a play. i notice you had trouble with locating the correct definitions and at some point managed to get in but you never mentioned how haha. any insight is appreciated I have connected the green connectors together which puts it into test mode but should i not do that and bridge the white one like below?

Agreed, looks odd for a rev-D.. someone has already been there and played around. @gunit439 but yea the short length of black hose between the T just kink it and tie it with a zip tie. go for a drive, then revert if it does nothing.

@gunit439

its 2001 so most likely a Rev-D, what is the model code on the vin plate,you mentioned TA-BE5, on that same plate look down for the model should start with BE5D, also Rev-D has different headlights and other changes like pink top feed injectors etc. Visually standing and looking at the car the easiest way to tell the difference is the headlights. Rev-D Rev- A B C

Welcome man, i recall this at a couple meets early last year. alot has changed since then though i believe, get a garage thread along with some pics up, car looks tough . iirc you had a Tomei M8265, single scroll exhaust housing etc, going to stay with that or move?

@Tony kinda irrelevant but with the Motul 300v do you find there is a strong sweet oily smell coming from exhaust, engine breather/blow by etc? I swear Motul drip a couple drops of Chanel No.5 in every bottle of oil.

Ohh thats a shame, i'm sure she will understand

Damn, no time to waste on that width haha that offset sounds ideal though