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scooby-wrx

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Everything posted by scooby-wrx

  1. I had an old HKS one in my Type R and it never gave me any issues, was easy to set & held boost very well. Have a GFB in my RA thought it was great to start off with, but am sick of it now as it over-boosts regularly I had it installed & tuned the car at the same time. If I floor it in 1st or 2nd and carry on through the gears no problem, but if I'm cruising in 4th and floor it, it over boosts! Very annoying...
  2. Here you go mate, you could land an S204 in NZ for A little under 32k excluding duty etc. https://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/subaru/impreza/18127823/ There's a Spec C Type RA-R too! Although its a little more expensive! https://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/subaru/impreza+wrx/18373600/
  3. Sad to hear man! Good luck, hope it turns up in one piece.
  4. That's a nice looking EVO man! Great choice of rims too!
  5. If its genuine (plastic) you will have to drill holes, but most fiberglass copies will bolt straight on.
  6. Genuine wing's have 10 male studs which slide into slots in the wing. I removed my V5 Type R's wing to apply a foam rubber seal and managed to find some replacement studs at Pickapart. Have a fiberglass V6 copy which has female studs and they only have 4 mounting points so can be fitted without drilling holes.
  7. Oh nooo... Do you know what size tap you need? I may have one or be able to borrow one from work.
  8. Had a spare STI boot lid sitting around for ages so decided to throw it on the Retna.
  9. I've done the engine conversion. Be prepared for a lot of wiring, that's the worst part. Otherwise a fairly easy swap. Its best to replace the clutch master cylinder so that it clears the V7 top mount as its a fair amount larger than your original one. I did an entire loom swap, but found out later this is not really required if you run something link a Link G4. Before: After: Wiring loom In my experience the conversion is worth it. V7 STI engine's are nice and responsive / more torque with the AVCS (variable valve timing). Worth having a browse through this forum as a lot of guys have done the whole conversion so lots of info. http://www.rs25.com/forums/
  10. Hey guys, I have a Retna / 22B build on the go and was wandering if anyone knows the restrictions relating to guard cutting. I plan on doing something along the lines of the image below - does it need to be certed / carried out by professionals or can I do this in myself in my garage? Cheers
  11. Excellent, thanks for confirming. Appreciate it. Definitely worth a quick test, before putting it in. Cheers
  12. Thanks for confirming. Appreciate it guys. Considering throwing it in to see whether it runs or not. Do you think judging by the black silicone (between block) means its been apart?
  13. Thanks for confirming. That's what I though, but wanted to get some opinions as I haven't had many engine's apart.
  14. Hey guys, I pulled the sump off an engine this wkend and was wandering if the marks on the inside of the block are normal (last 2 pics)? Have they been machined or are they from the crank....? There were no metal shavings inside the oil / sump so assume they're machined? Crank rotates freely etc. Perhaps the engine has been apart and rebuilt? I know its been sitting around for years. Thanks
  15. Thanks mate, appreciate it. I've used these tools on another car and deadening came off easily so thought I'd give it a try, but took hours so will definitely get some dry ice this week. Picked up a V4 STI alloy bonnet to replace the V1/2 steel one. Also got a set of alloy STI wishbone arms with aftermarket front swaybar links. Trial fitted the V6 STI Wing. Fitted a temporary V1/2 rear bumper to replace the terrible body kit it came with.
  16. Fitted one in a P10 Primera sedan so won't be an issue (was un-boxed).
  17. Thanks mate, recently bought it with the hope that its capable of towing a car / trailer as I need to do a track day soon! Rims were temporary while a new set of tires were being fitted to the OEM 17's. Its a 2001 250S
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