kamineko

mechanically, could it be a leaking injector/seal? my legacy has a bad earth somewhere and the TPS signal randomly goes high, resulting in extra fuel at throttle off = pop fart bang on overrun i guess see if its still a problem after a few tanks of your usual fuel

regarding the knock sensor, just general info - check it for cracks as water/rust will kill the insides. also the metal base of the sensor should be clean (and mating surface) as that is the electrical return through the engine block. the knock sensor has always been my achilles-heal as it always seems to pick up too much noise from exhaust/piston slap or whatever else is going on <- not at all backed up, really should spectrum analyse the knock signal one day..

also.. this isn't a standard sway bar is it? going from your build thread, what was it from? is it straight?

ok so they are correct then. swaybars work by trying to correct the difference in strut compression/expansion. try to keep the wheels at an even height when working on the swaybar linkages. for instance, just jacking the right side of the car and leaving the left wheel on the ground will make it almost impossible the springs you bought may not have been suited for bilstein struts

your ones yep they will work fine. i'm talking about the plastic dogbone style that are fitted to the steel arms this issue:

probably the wrong style swaybar links as mentioned on the identical dobc thread. are the springs captive?

yeah i need to reformat my posts to suit this forum. some permission issues have been sorted and i should have time to re-post the tech stuff plus maybe some shiny new info in the next month

oh hai, my best guess is the F84GXC14 firmware is BC/BF legacy the prova'd W6 cover is very likely the original that came with your '93 WRX looks like someone swapped the board and kept the prova tune. sorry 'bout that. on the other hand, a 4plug wrx ecu might net you some better power if you can find one. manual ecus that will work well for you are U8 2C W6 W9 U8 Z4 or sti SA SB SC 6K 7K. there are plenty of other 4plug auto/wagon ecus as well but they are slightly detuned

have you confirmed the CEL lamp is working? does it comes on before normal engine start, or flash consistently during the code check procedure?

try the old forum... http://web.archive.org/web/20101114045144/http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,58.0.html

does an NA really require those fancy plugs? wouldn't a new set of copper's be fine? plugs are easy enough to inspect anyway. no harm to check first

Before I bought my 'nana spec' 1993 GC4A I spent days at the wreckers counting spot welds and comparing chassis construction by year. The only differences I found between nana models GC*A->C2 and my GC8C2 STI RA where 2 nuts welded to the front bumper (to secure the power steering cooler) and the bolt-on front fender braces (and of course the roof scoop cutout if you want to be picky). Talking specifically about Classic Impreza, I believe the Model D/E chassis received an update, as did the model F/G with some extra layers of reinforcing in some locations. Of course I don't have the chassis plans but my point is I am confident a lot of these chassis are infact identical A catch may be the nana coupe Vs. STI coupe where they supposedly added extra spot welds anyway the the hoop issue has been discussed here http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?35351-Driveshaft-hoops-blech!

i think i have opened the thread for you

i could be persuaded to cruise to qt for lunch, but i'll need a little notice

if its just the dash cluster you want changed, i reckon it'd be a lot less work to convert the plugs at the dash than swap a whole loom from a different chassis to your wagon consider the time to remove all the interior, everything including the whole dash and roof lining

thanks for the suggestion however bbcode and character limits are purely permission issues

over it to be honest. can't format posts how i used to be able or even edit them for that matter. have since removed my more complex contributions, considering the stupid amount of time i put into formatting posts they just looked embarrassing

ahh okay. but still, the later smooth cover EJ20G heads are shim over. i suppose they are technically a K head

Whats up with the rs-ra heads? Apart from the bling covers wont the ttech be superseded by a shim over 20G head?

got personal with the sti-ra heads today after a year of busy. valves look great considering..

If you install the chip you will have to cut the chip enable jumper so the ecu knows to run the chip map instead of the factory map. I dont have pictures handy but Google should

Sorry cant repair / update anything until stupid posting restrictions for moderators are fixed...

it would look like someone vomited gasket goo onto your engine and it will still leak. you can pull it all apart, clean everything nicely, Threebond it all back together with washers under the bolts to compress the old gasket some more and see how you go. its a bit hit and miss otherwise, new gaskets.

i'm not sure this applies to you but avoid powering up the airbag system until you have reconnected the new clock-spring. otherwise you might need to have the airbag ecu reset by scan-tool after its logged a permanent fault

i do, but if you have a spare clutch then i'd like it back now