Skatieguy

Sweet as will order some. Will just have to live with VOD if they don't turn up in time

Hey Ross I've been re-reading this thread again, noticing this time changing restrictor pill size in hose 2 etc. Do you think it would help going up to 1mm with Syms downpipes (catted) and silicone turbo to intercooler hoses? Haven't ordered anything yet but will be ordering more bits soon.

From what I've seen the twin turbo FMIC kits reuse the old pipes that go from the turbos to the TMIC so the vac hoses stay where they are.

I believe a forum member owns it? Don't remember who though.

Sounds good. Bit sluggish down low, certainly better with smaller wheels though. Just trying to justify changing back to the standard manifold rather than Syms headers. Sounds like it'll be for more than just the noise after all.

Non STi V3/4 EJ20K should be shim over with standard/not forged internals.

Anyone tried both the hose 1 0.8mm restrictor pill mod and a parallel setup, and able to comment on which works better on highway/city and just general daily driving? Never driven one with any sort of sequential setup so really pros and cons of this versus staying parallel.

Replaced the front strut brace with a GC8 STi one, changed out the 19x8" wheels for V7 STi wheels. Think it looks much better now. Also learnt that it seems to have a few goodies, Syms headers and down pipes. Possibly the entire exhaust system. Not bad for a cheap, low kms car

So update on my codes 65/66, turns out my aftermarket headers are syms equal length (parallel only) so after all that and more mucking around I can't even try the sequential setup with a .8mm restrictor pill in hose 1. However, seems that earlier in the thread when I changed those vac hoses around really did get rid of the codes, still haven't had any come up since.

Sold it. Back down to just a Subaru again now.

How about a little below the $15k budget with slightly higher kms, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=788249992 Would snap that up quick if I were in the market for another GDB. As long as nothing major is wrong with it, of course.

Got the F/R wheel bearings replaced and updated rego/RUC ready to stick on trademe.... Stuck it up on trademe.

Cheers Ross looks like I'll be going to 4 pots. Looking at buying silicone twin turbo to intercooler pipes, for a BD5 rev C, are they going to be the same ones as BE/BH rev a/b/c? 1 x 1.3/4 To 1.1/2 45 reducer elbow 1 x 1.3/4 To 1.1/2 90 reducer elbow

Had another look today, sliders seem to move fine/ aren't seized at least. Managed to push/press the top piston in however the bottom (or the top with the calliper actually on properly) one doesn't want to move at all even with a clamp (think it might have like 1mm with polygrips prior to the clamp). So I would imagine that's what's causing this light headache.

Found this after a quick look: ran out of time really but I would imagine at minimum I'm going to need new pads? outer pad came out with ease and couldn't get the inner pad to budge at all by hand. (Cover bit broken off inner pad)

Okay so something a little different now to twin turbo issues. 98 BD5C. Last weekend driving home I heard a bit of an odd noise from the F/R wheel. from the heat I imagined something was up with the brake on that wheel. smell I can't quite put my finger on, also a noise I just can't really explain, nothing I've heard before. Took the wheel off (f**king tight wheel nuts) to find nothing seeming out of place/loose etc. Went for another drive a few nights ago, used very minimal brake in the approx 20 minute drive, heard the noise again near home. It was dark, front right wheel giving off A LOT more heat that front left, as in could touch the left rotor for 5+ seconds if I had to versus 1 or 2 on the right. Thoughts on what's happening here? I would imagine temps varying that much shouldn't really happen? And the noise as well meaning something isn't right, likely with the brake set up and not something else? I am guessing something like the calliper sticking on? I don't know much about anything though sadly. Maybe a good reason to upgrade to four pot fronts

I see he has dropped the start price by $300 so just as well no one bid. Applied model code is BC5A47D so if it's anything like GC8's it's not quite the run of the mill RS shell (as he mentions). I would offer him something silly and go from there if I really wanted it.

May as well knock out a few dumb questions in one go. Is there any difference between V3 WRX/STi intake manifolds? I.e if I were to use either would I get the same amount of power if I went to ST on an EJ20R (with 6S, yellows, probably VF30) Will V7 STi headers bolt directly up to an EJ20R? Or do I actually need V3/4 headers as well? Thought I had more than that but just more things I need to consider before doing it the way I want it Also another dumb question that likely doesn't really have an answer but what would/should I expect to get for 4x DTM convex black/machined face 19x8" with "minor-very minor" curbing? 3-4mm tread on all 4.

Decided to put all the vacuum hoses in my BD5C back to original so see if it wanted to run properly now, as it has been in parallel for months now (trouble free). Took the terminals off the battery for an ECU reset at the same time, managed to break one of them so had to bugger off to ripco in the ute to buy some bits for that. CEL as soon as I gave it a bit of right foot through 4th or 5th, still feeling like only the secondary works, yet feels like (to me) that they both spool with the parallel setup. So all in all a lot of stuff all to learn that sequential setup doesn't work in my car for some unknown reason.

V7 EJ207 was the first semi closed deck block, AFAIK. V5/6 EJ207 was open deck, same as EJ20K.

Took the Legacy in for a VTNZ WOF and passed it clean sheet also haven't had a CEL for a few weeks so I assume I have fixed it thanks to the forum .

First vehicle: 1991 Nissan Terrano TD27T manual, bought for $2510 didn't have many issues reliability wise but when it came to wof time it wasn't cheap. owned from 177k to ??? (totally legit), traded it and $$$ for my second vehicle, gearbox blew on the guy 2 weeks later, according to carjam it is now dereg'd. Second vehicle: 2000 V7 STi fairly standard, owned from 169ks to 201k, most reliable car I have owned to date (kinda hard to beat seeing as I haven't owned many). Bought for $9k and the terrano, sold for $7k over 2 years later. Last I saw it was back on trademe with a new 125k km dash. Third vehicle: 2004 Mitsi Triton 4x4 manual 4M40T in red, was going to post up a pic but I see carjam removed the one that was on there. Bought with 189k on the dash now at 201k, trouble free, clean sheet WOFs, owned nearly a year now. Paid $12500. Fourth vehicle: 98 RS/ RS-B Legacy, paid $2510 a few weeks ago, came with 2 sets of wheels, genuine low 107k km, cambelt etc all done, wof/reg, have had a few issues so far (parked up for 4 years), seems I have sorted the CELs that weren't mentioned, needs some seals done that will be.

I have something on on Tuesday in Rotorua, I'm sure I could shout you a box of your choice for your time.

I just followed the "Idiots guide to converting your legacy to parallel" here: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?32559-Idiots-guide-to-converting-your-legacy-to-parallel I mentioned earlier I was going to try it, (hose from top of ECV into 22, except it was hose 5 not 8.) but have only just got around to it now. So I have it set-up like that now minus the ECV rod being wired down.