IZichard

It really isn't that hard to do it in place. You just need a small 1/4 inch ratchet with a standard short 10mm socket. Then as boon said you will need a ratcheting 10mm spanner or just a combination spanner with a kink in it to get the bottom rearmost bolt. You really don't need to mess around with engine mounts or anything. Just be careful.

I'm pretty sure that is just the American Subaru guys having one of their stupid oil arguments. I see it all the time on US forums all based on anecdotal evidence with no real scientific method. Eg. Guy 1: "I've been running Mobil 1 for 10,000 miles with no issues in my brand new STI" Guy 2: "My friend's cousin's Subaru looked at Mobil 1 once and cracked a ring land on the spot. I've been running royal purple for 800 miles on my fully built motor and it is the best oil ever!" To clarify I've never used either of the oils mentioned above. Just take what you read online from those guys with a grain of salt. Use an oil of the correct grade and with the required standards from a reputable brand and you will have no issues. Get one of what @evowrx said above. He is the guy to talk to about oil.

A mirror and a small flathead screwdriver helps to pick off the old silicone from the sealing surface on the head. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals and the sealing washers at the same time. Make sure the seal is correctly seated in the groove. If it isn't then it can pinch and tear when you tighten the cover down. Be careful that the seal does move when you lower the cover down onto the motor again as it is a tight fit and easy to catch it on the cam cap bolts. You will need 8 small dots of silicone on the seal. One on either side of the two U shapes at the front of the motor. Plus one on either side of the two plastic half moons at the rear of the motor. If you get the genuine gasket it will have flat spots for each of these silicone dots iirc. No particular tightening order just be sure that you tighten it down evenly not one at a time. No need for a torque wrench, just use a small 10mm spanner or a small 1/4 inch ratchet with 10mm socket. Tighten them until they bottom out (should be able to do that with barely more than finger strength) then a tiny tweak more. They really do not need to be that tight. If you lean on one apparently they break easily, I've never had it happen to me but rest assured that if you are ham fisted and break one your day will really suck. Please exercise restraint. Typed on my phone so sorry if it doesn't make sense.

RIP shockie. At least that explains the body roll issues you were asking about a little while ago. Are you going to try and find another or is it time for MCA coilovers?

This series of videos often annoys me because they take away from the "back yard" roots of MCM and lean towards buying expensive products. All he is doing here is blocking the blow of valve, just an expensive way of doing it. Could of achieved the same thing with a thin sheet of metal with two holes drilled in it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Research_Octane_Number_.28RON.29 TLDR: US displayed octane rating is 4-6 lower than what what we see on our pumps.

+1 for flat

Picked up a different set of wheels for the GC8, Rays gram lights 16*7 +46. At what point am I supposed to admit I have a problem? ....I need to sell a set.

I'm still running 95 in the wagon since it is just not worth it to drive that far for fuel in a daily. The gc8 can get the special stuff since it is only on "fun drive" duties. That is exactly where I get 95 for my wagon from, with a skeggs fuel card it is $1.95/L for 95. Paying monthly.

Hurts a bit more when you have to drive 40mins each way to get it (hence the jerry can). Still cheaper than a detonation related big end failure I reckon. Cromwell has the cheapest fuel in the area, in Wanaka 91 is $2.15 per litre at the tourist petrol stations last time I checked. $2.80 is just silly money.

The gc8 got a Wof, then I bought a jerry can and drove to Cromwell to get a tank-full + jerry can of 98 for a tasty $2.25 per litre... ouch.

Yeah I have some sedan axles too. I still want to re-pack them with grease before it all goes in.

Productive weekend... Cleaned up surface rust and painted some sedan rear lateral links ready to put into my wagon. Installed a beefier pitch stop mount to complement the gearbox mount in the wagon. On the gc8 I sorted out the passenger rocker cover gasket and degreased the whole bottom and back of the motor (That's all of the leaks fixed! at least for now). Then I put some new to me 16*7 wheels/tyres on and fixed an exhaust leak ready for a WOF on Tuesday. I also installed a Cusco lower arm brace on the gc thanks to @Kiwiflyboy. I'm loving how far this thing has come now after a LOT of TLC.

add ".jpg" to the end of all the links and they will show What @Leufkax said, it definitely lowered a bit, it will probably settle more after some driving.

Probably best to hit up the place you bought them from and ask them what they think if you are concerned.

Jump up and down in the boot for a bit and see if it gets any better for real though it should settle a bit. Did the ad have a picture of a car running the springs? Could always keep a couple dead bodies in the boot to maintain the low stance.

They should settle a little after driving on them for a few days since they are new, but they won't drop a whole lot more. Picture?

I don't have a "local" only place in town that sells automotive stuff is mitre 10 who obviously don't have much. I'll give bnt a call when I run out of what I have now, thanks.

What do you think of the braided lines? Are they of well-made/good quality? I've been eyeing up a set.

Where do you get it from?

I'm also interested if anyone has a good solution for this. I went through a similar process as both of you trying to clean a set of gold speedlines for my gc8. I have the wheels off the car and have hit them with wheel cleaner and heaps of scrubbing plus tried a whole can of crc degreaser. Degreaser and a stiff bristled brush works really well to remove the tar and old stickies from wheel weights but I for the life of me cannot remove the discolouration from the years of brake dust. I think a wire wheel would just remove the paint if they are painted but if it is bare alloy it may work. I would assume there is some sort of clear coating on the alloy wheels also so it may not work.

Sorry I don't know of a map unfortunately. There is a thread about Christchurch stations with 98 in the Canterbury area sub-forum. South of chch I know of, Ashburton BP, (on main road by maccas) Timaru BP, Oamaru BP, Cromwell BP, (close to the giant fruit) Dunedin BP There are probably more on the east coast but Cromwell is the only inland station with 98 that I know of. Edit: I just had a look since I thought I might have seen a map before. The BPMe app on the iOS App Store lets you look for stations with 98 on a visual map.

That is trade cost for the cheap and nasty brake rotors. Stoptech if I remember correctly. You will have to pay GST and likely freight on top of that. If you know someone with who gets trade price at BNT then it is a good deal. Edit: definitely wasn't stoptech, was that 'Trans... something' blue and red boxes.

My mudflaps are not ornaments! Look at the lovely clean paint behind them, some people may hate but the rally armour flaps really do work well even if they are a tad overpriced. I spent like 20 minutes hosing mud off of my wheel wells, subframes, sills and control arms. Maybe they should make some mudflaps for those areas too

The point of the game is to go for a drive! I have got the Christchurch one twice and it is a five and a half hour drive from my house. You should try and take to photo at an interesting place or on a fun road to encourage people to go out and enjoy their Subaru. Since that is what it is all about.