Zenki

Hi all, Bit of a long story*, but I'd like to import a set of springs from the States to get my car to sit level when lowered, and of course nobody wants to ship them internationally. What's the most affordable way of getting a box of springs sent over the pond? Unfortunately I can't find a shipping size or weight to see what it'd cost on plain old YouShop, even from the manufacturer (who apparently ignores any email with the keyword "international" or "overseas"). Don't really want to cough up a $300 freight charge on a set of $190 USD springs. * Facelift third-gen MX-5s (NC2) have shorter front springs than pre-facelift (NC1) models due to revised front suspension geometry. This causes the nose to sit too high when fitted with pre-facelift springs, and of course most of the big name spring manufacturers didn't bother updating their offerings...

But then people would have to learn engine codes, that's never going to happen. We'll tackle that when we manage to get people to stop calling the Gen 4 H6 "EZ30R"...

BM9/BR9 (non-turbo) automatics are CVT. 3.6Rs are always 5EAT, as far as I'm aware - if there are manual ones, they are incredibly rare. Avoid the early CVT boxes (2009 and start of 2010 - not sure when the fix was implemented) as they tend to develop issues with the torque converter lockup. A 2.5 paired with the CVT gets very good mileage, our BR9 averages about 8l/100km on long trips. The Gen 5 6MT is based on the older 5MT and is not the STi-derived facelift Gen 4 box.

This won't fix delta's problem, sounds like he's dumping too much heat into his brakes for 294mm rotors and/or current pads to handle. The 316mm rotor and caliper to suit is found on BL/BP turbo and 3.0R excluding Outbacks and all BM/BR turbo and 3.6R including Outbacks. Tribeca and GRF WRX STi A-Line should in theory have the exact same calipers, but those are harder to get hold of anyway. The rotor you need is DR9541V - I stock these but most parts places will be able to cross the number over. Bendix number for the pad to suit is DB1722.

Outback: Replaced rear pads and rotors (about time, had those bits in the garage for about two years). MX-5: Attempted to test fit new front brakes. Discovered front hubs are seized to the uprights. Added slide hammer to shopping list.

Ordered brake caliper rebuild & hardware kits, gold caliper paint and high-temp clear. Just need to get some high-temp vinyls and the rebuilding can commence. Pads and rotors in a couple weeks, need to decide what brands/compounds I'm actually buying first.

Pretty sure it's closer to a whole 5L.

Rolled the guards. No longer tries to eat her own tyres.

+1 to getting a CTEK charger. They can be left hooked up to the battery semi-permanently with no ill effects, and come with a plug to wire to the battery terminals so you don't have to mess with clips or clamps every time you disconnect the charger, just unplug the body from the leads bolted to the terminals and close the trunk. I've seen people play with the wiring and feed them through the body of the car so that the charger can be connected without leaving any body panels open. A Century NS60 is somewhat smaller than the OE-replacement battery (55D23 or 58), which won't be helping as you're down on capacity even when fully charged. See if you can fit the larger battery when the time comes to get another one, there's little difference in cost.

Spare shoes don't really fit. Edit: points to anyone who can guess what they're originally off. This might help:

On point, as it were.

Insert facepalm here.

I suspect all NZ New BM/BRs lack folding mirrors, ours certainly doesn't have them either.

Put it up on TradeMe.

Oil return hose leaking is very common, it stiffens with heat and age. There is no proper clamp on it from the factory, just two slim spring clamps that barely exert any pressure.

Legacy/Outback: Gen 6 = BN sedan BS wagon. Note: As of Gen 6, Subaru no longer manufactures Legacy wagons, Gen 6 wagons are Outbacks. M = 2500cc 4WD exclusive to Gen 5 Legacy - refers to FB25 in MY12+ WRX/Levorg: All chassis numbers begin with V. VAG: WRX, FA20. VAB: WRX STi, EJ20. VAF: WRX STi, EJ25. VM4: Levorg, FB16. VMG: Levorg, FA20. BRZ/GT86: ZC6: Subaru BRZ ZN6: Toyota 86

No, because you have a paper trail with an insurance claim for a lost or stolen key. If you happen to lose your key and the person who "finds" said key uses it to unlock your vehicle without your permission, that still falls under criminal law - having access to the key does not make the activity less illegal.

Subaru key programming procedure involves pairing the keys with the car's BIU (Body Integrated Unit). All keys that will be used with the car must be present to be coded. This means that if you later find your lost key, it will physically unlock the vehicle but it will not start it without the car being reprogrammed again. Rather difficult to justify a full key change with "but it might get stolen" since the would-be thief wouldn't be able to start the car anyway. (If you lose all keys you need a new BIU. Not cheap. Insurance companies know this.)

Work on car: applied clamps to fuel lines, drained coolant, prodded at the block for a bit, left alone. Can't really do much until the engine comes out on Sunday.

2011 BR9 Outback, EJ253 (i-AVLS). A used engine will still be reasonably spendy as the engine will have to be from a fairly new car, and at that point I'd rather overhaul the original engine and retain a motor with known service history.

Popped a head gasket. F*** Subies etc.

Ah, yes. Forgot about that. It should be on the lens or housing somewhere as well, but whether it's visible without removing bits of car is another question.

Unfortunately the most reliable method is to take a bulb out, it's printed/stamped on the flange of the bulb. Otherwise consult owner's manual?

Not as far as I'm aware, but get a second opinion anyway.

Discuss the matter with a local repair certifier before any work is done on the vehicle; they will be able to guide you through the process, as well as give you an idea of what you're getting yourself into. As an insurance write-off, your car must be handled by a specialist repair certifier before it can be re-registered, regardless of how severe the damage is; seeing as you have to go to one anyway, may as well be proactive about it.