pl0x

This, and do the fuel pump relay mod. I've run 220wkw+ on two separate cars with yellows

Those manifolds and up pipes are rubbish, had 1 crack and leak at the collector. Brought a new one then the up pipe flex fell to bits and went through my turbo. Pretty sure this is correct. Factory turbos, stick with factory diameter up pipe. If moving to bigger turbo/power then consider large diameter up pipe.

I wouldn't be hard driving or doing power runs with any signs of DET. Lower boost, up fuel pressure or get a real computer and get it tuned. There was a g4 storm on facebook for $850 yesterday.

Just to update, went for gtx3071 into my current .63 rear housing. Solid welded the up pipe, extended and added flexy into the downpipe. Spool time seems similar to what it use to be, 4.5k-ish. I thought it would improve spool time more so I want to carry out some back pressure testing and get an exhaust temp gauge. AFRs appear a touch leaner (0.1-.02) so Ill touch those up. There may be a very small crack where the headers merge, same place as the last set I replaced. Can't see or feel anything but there is a slight noise when under the car like the sound of one header leaking. So new headers are on the list. It will need a proper retune at some point but i just want to drive it for the time being, looking at a few future mods to get over 300atw - new/bigger/better IC core, slightly bigger (.72?) rear housing and water/meth injection.

Pass but i'm picking not Still spins freely, did have some "catching" feeling at times but I'm guessing that was it actually catching on the bits inside the exhaust housing. Yet to get the exhaust housing off for a closer look at turbine, looks good from the back but appears the blades are now uneven. I assume the bearings could have taken a beating with the turbine being hit by a significant piece of metal while spinning at those rpms. That's a folded up piece of metal, unfolded:

Found the issue after pulling the turbo off. It was the up pipe flexy collapsing internally, unfortunately that means wires and metal have been through the turbine. Likely option from here, new gtx3071 and band aid that up pipe (cut out flexy and weld solid) until I find a decent set of headers. Keep current rear housing (.63AR 4 bolt).

Dtech tuned it the latest time. Will pull the turbo off tonight but pretty sure it is at fault, talking with a few more people it shouldn't have as much play as it does. Was leaking there originally but replaced/fixed it. Maybe I should look at changing headers before a re-tune for whatever turbo I end up choosing as a replacement. Wanting straight bolt in, so another Garrett seems the likely choice. Anyone have any experience between gt3076 to gtx3071 or gtx3076?

I think the next course of action is pull turbo out to check turbine and play, so up pipe can follow behind that for inspection. Fairly new K&N pod filter, so not really. Blades look in good condition. I would love to find the flex join faulty, much happier to replace than turbo. The engine/turbo has always been slightly down in power so I wonder if there is something more at play. Originally (previous owner, I brought his race car and transplanted everything) made something like 250kw atw and tuned suggested it needed adjustable cam gears to dial the cams in. Next time round, with adjustable cam gears (& different tuner too), 282kw @ 23psi. Back pressure and EGT checks have been on the to do list for a while.

Hi all Wondering if anyone has experienced what is currently plaguing my car, or has any ideas that I haven't tested or checked. It was making full boost around 4.5k, now doesn't come on till 5.5k-6k and is much lagger between gears. Can't hear any untoward noises on or off boost, AFRs & timing are fine according to the logs - can send to someone if they want to have a look. Feels ok once it is on boost. I'm picking it is the turbo bearings - it has play in both directions (I'm not sure how much is too much with these), when spinning it by hand you can hear it catching at times. I can't hear it whining when on boost which is making me question it, genuine Garrett, getting plenty of oil, not surging, 50sec to stop spinning after turning car off. Tested - exhaust leaks (towel up the exhaust with car running on hoist), waste gate not leaking/opening early, not the boost solenoid (still same when free boosting), intake leak pressure tested twice (bov has very minor leak, icv removed and blocked for sake of testing, intercooler joiners tightened/replaced), cam gears checked and haven't appeared to have slipped. Only next step i can think of is turbo off to check turbine then potentiality rebuild or change/upgrade turbo. Bit of background on the car: Forged ej20 Link G4 Franklin 272 cam Adjustable cam gears Fmic/flipped/remote icv Garrett 3076 Genuine tial wastegate Genuine gfb bov 880cc injectors, walbro + relay Semi-tuned headers (unsure of brand, x force maybe, These), twisted up pipe, 3" exhaust. (edited for better england)

There is a speed wire to the ecu in my rs. Mine is a wire in link but has a mechanical speedo and the link reads it. I wonder if the speed pin doesn't match between V1/2 and the legacys, might need a simple pin swap to get it working.

I had the same thing, can't exactly remember why. Hole was tapered or something causing minimal thread, so re-drilled and tapped larger.

Sounds like the pad "binding" to the disc once you have parked up. One of my cars does it at times, not sure why or what causes it. Never worried about it.

I wouldn't say it's a steal but about the average price. No cert needed

ambient + 10, what intercooler? Mine peaks to around + 40 On topic, where are the intake temp sensors? I would replace it based on the data it's giving.

Didn't realize this was still going, vote for forcefed's turbo ez30 and add to the list please. Would be great to see it there but is possibly a bit late https://www.subaru.co.nz/wrx25/#/boards/subaru-wrx/entries/subaru-enrtry-a784c76c-44a7-4813-a35d-3cf3a98a2ec0

The dude I had in mind said he has one and would just weld up to run 4wd, but if your just going to biff it he'll give you a bit of cash or beers for it.

Don't the primary turbos on these die if going to a bigger downpipe/de-cat? Wouldn't porting have a similar effect? Or was that earlier models?

If you brought one, let me know how much you are after for your old one. Reply in this thread please, my PM inbox is 230% full

Sounds like the center diff binding and causing the shitty rear diff mounts to clunk. Jack up your car and have a look at your rear diff mounts. I've got a parts gearbox that i'm fairly certain is phase 1, which has center diff and housing still

I have one of the below and car seems fine until 1/8 of a tank. Was surging below 1/3 on road prior. Koom made these a few years ago but believe I got the last one.

Would he not sell it for $6.5k or less? I didn't think it would be worth $6.5k but when comparing it to the wrx for $5.5k it's a better deal. I must be out of the market because both of those seem expensive unless you are offering below asking price.

RA drivetrain will be more reliable than the wrx, and won't break at factory power. You won't regret spending the extra 1k at the beginning, so much more car for the money.

I can't re-vote? Just says thanks for voting on the ones i have voted for. Click it and it removes my vote.

I don't trust the factory ecu's, is it just me or? I wouldn't look at any without a tunable ecu unless they are fully stock mod wise. And even then a link and an array of sensors would be one of the first things in my track car budget. and are you limited to wrx's? Some cheap legacy's around but i'd be in two minds about starting with a less than ideal platform depending on how far you are going to take it in terms of a track car. My old b4 went for something like 3.8 on trade me last month - single turbo, walbro, link g4, adjustable's, bride seats, refreshed bearings & rings. Add a sump, sway bars and a diet and it would have been a good track car.

Can you vote more than once for the same car? looks like you can just vote for different cars