McDoof

What do you need new tophats for? Sheared off the bolts?

Got a new ECU map to sort out some of ugly noise my new exhaust resonator was making. Much better now.

I get around 12.6l/100km average. Mostly driving to work and back to be fair. Drops to around 8.5l/100km on the open road. Best full tank 9.9l/100km, worst full tank 14.2l/100km. And a whopping 27l/100km on the track.

PM me and we can sort something out. Easiest if you are in Auckland of course.

$145??? The second hard car market really is dead. :-)

That torque issue is resolved if you get an ECU remap. The stock tune leaves a big hole in the torque down between 1000RPM and 3000RPM. I can pretty much drive around at 50km/h in 6th gear, up hild, down hills and so on. I picked my combo by making a list of things I wanted on my car and then picking the car that met most of the requirements. H6 -> Check ( I quite like the way the N/A motor delivers power and these were all a bit cheaper than a turbo at the time. Love the way it sounds) Manual -> Check. (this was non negotiable in my case, I'm just not a fan of autos, personal preference) NZ New -> Check. (Gets 8 Airbags instead of 2 which most JDM cars have except for very few where the original owner ordered the car with the safety pack, also means all things are in English and the Radio works really well without a band expander) HID Lights -> No Check (Most JDM cars have them, not the NZ New 3.0R though) Macintosh Audio -> Check (It just sounds better and I like good sound) Since I have had my car tuned I have helped a few others with their tunes too, mostly with Auto H6 cars and they have all said that it has transformed the car, which includes how the auto shifts, so this actually makes the auto a bit of a better proposition that it would have been when I picked mine. From the list you have above, I would choose the facelift nz new 2.5T manual. Ticks lots of boxes and it's relatively cheap for what it is. Very very rare.

So they are. I made that assumption based on the stance of the GT vs GTB, but that could just be down to the wheel size.

Facelift GTB gets a STI-ish 6 speed manual where the GT has a 5 speed. 18" wheels vs 17" wheels JDM both get bilsteins but I don't think they are the same ones. SpecB bumpers are different I think the engines are the same

Mine does it too. Could be Bilstein knock or LCA bushes. Replaced my struts with refurbished units and the knock persisted. I thought my bushes looked OK too, but then I jacked up the front end and they look a whole lot different when the suspension is at full extension.

I think legally you can only stretch Falkens to that.

I would say both those errors are related to the same fault. Looks like the sensor is not well. Just replace it with a used spare. Much cheaper than new.

Yea, let's do that Mr. Escobar.

Only works on post facelift models unfortunately.

This is an ABS sensor issue. I had the same error last year some time. It disables ABS, Cruise control etc. Mine is a manual car so the symptoms were a little different. The speed sensor sits in the main hub assembly. You can see the cable for it clipped into your front struts. The rears come in along the trailing arms. I'm not aware of any ABS sensors in the gear box. There are 2 types of failure that cause this. 1. The sensor has failed. Fairly simple. replace the sensor. It's an easy job and only requires a 12mm and 10mm socket to undo. 2. The magnetic tone ring has been damaged. This is part of the hub assembly and is integrated into one of the wheel bearings and will require a whole new/second hand unit. I ended up taking my car to Subaru to identify which it was. You could try using a VAG com cable and FreeSSM. In my case the Left rear sensor was completely dead. I got a used replacement from Strong for Subaru. $140

I really liked my RE002s on the old Mazda Atenza I had. Never tried them on the Subie, ended up with Eagle F1 D5s instead. They're OK

Get a quote from slystiguy and take it to Tony's. They will beat the price by $10 a tyre :-) I got my RE002 215/45/17 from them a little while ago for $165 each.

Wouldn't you just put a laptop on the passenger seat.

^^That^^ The engine bay above look like it's just been built so it is clean. However. If you want to keep yours looking fairly good there are a few things you can do. I use a small home steam cleaner (I think it's called piranha) to get rid of any spilled oil. It's accurate so you don't end up wetting the whole engine bay and it's really hot so it just breaks down the oily stuff. Blow away any water with an air compressor if you have one. Wipe off any excess with a soft cloth or chamois. If it's just dusty I find the air compressor does a pretty good job just by itself. Then finally if there are bit where the steam just isn't good enough then use a toothbrush to get on there and scrub the bastard. I used to use a bit of engine degreaser and a hose but once in a while something that was not sealed properly would get wet and the car would run funny or not start.

Aussie must have one of the most expensive international shipping costs in the world. I was planning on getting a custom clutch from Aussie and the shipping just made it too expensive to think about.

It's just a resonator, but then again so is the bit I am replacing. The mid muffler on the Legacy is actually just a straight through resonator with lots of packing. The one I am putting in should be fairly close to stock noise levels. I am expecting it to be a bit louder, but not much.

Mid muffler/resonator has collapsed and is rattling like a box of nails. Just got this from the USA to replace it. Looks well made. Pity I can only have installed on Monday. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3VHW8

You're probably right. But with the poverty budget I had when I bought this car I would have been a good 6k short of owning a facelift specB. 3 years ago a good one was still around 17 to 18k. Could probably find one for about 14k now

Just missing the 3.0R with a 6MT. The best of the lot :-)

I'd be hitting them up for the full cost. If you don't ask, you don't get I say. Read them this bit from the CGA http://www.consumeraffairs.govt.nz/for-consumers/law/consumer-guarantees-act/guarantees-for-goods#acceptable [h=2]Goods must be of acceptable quality[/h]'Acceptable quality' means that goods must be: fit for their normal purpose safe durable – last for a reasonable time have no minor defects acceptable in look and finish. When deciding whether goods are of acceptable quality, the test is whether a reasonable person would find the goods acceptable taking into account: the nature of the goods the price paid any information on the goods or the package anything said by the manufacturer or retailer about the goods all other relevant circumstances