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Everything posted by Technikhaus

  1. Finally got it all connecting! I see there are no options to view the state of cruise control buttons though, so I assume this means the ECU isn't setup for CC?
  2. Late reply I know, but I'd definitely check the wiring, if the problem stays with cyl 3, even with new coils then I'd strip the loom back a bit from the plug and check it all. They're bad for breaking right at the plug from heat and just getting too weak with the heat cycling.
  3. Ahh cool thanks, I'll take a look at lunch and see what it says!
  4. I've never used the others very much, only to disable the air pump. I believe FreeSSM has a menu about cruise control that's all.
  5. I've got a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 Rev H, and a few random bluetooth adaptors. FreeSSM doesn't pick up a Serial port when I connect the Tactrix, but RomRaider will connect to the ECU.
  6. Yup light blue and red, that's on the column side of the plug, not the body loom side. You can confirm it's the same with yours by checking for continuity between the two pins and the resistance should change as you press the buttons.
  7. Similar issue to @GregNZ here, I have just installed the switches in the STI, and checked and it already has the 4 pole brake/stop switch: Trying to connect my laptop to the ECU with FreeSSM, but so far no luck in connecting, but I suspect that will tell me why it's not working. For rerence this is a Manual 2011 STI with push button start.
  8. Well after an hour or so with a super crappy multi-meter, I found the wires, cut up an old 3.5-RCA lead and guessed the wiring for the head uni 3.5mm remote in. And success! I feel so dirty doing it this way, but all my tools are at my workshop and I can't get there with the lock-down. so for now it's twisted and taped. Crappy video:
  9. @Andy_Mac Will let you know if we find the cable and get it hooked up. I found a video on Youtube of an aussie guy doing on a legacy/outback and he just went to the steering column and cut the wires where it comes out of there and ran them across to the head unit. So I'll probably look at the same if the plug doesn't have it there
  10. Won an auction a few weeks back on Trademe for a Legacy steering wheel for $1. Total $11 shipped. Only wanted it for the steering wheel controls, crazy how much some people want for those! Installed them on the STI yesterday. Still need to source a 3 wire brake switch to enable Cruise control, and need to find the Remote input cable for the Kenwood head unit then can finally have steering wheel controls running. Thankfully the plugs were the same, so they just plugged right in and bolted right up.
  11. Hmm, I was going to suggest one, but then realised it was for a later model one, maybe might be able to get you something?
  12. Might have sorted some V3 WRX heads, so not quite as nice, but it'll do the job. Unsure if the engine will be going back into this car though, may re-shell into a road car, as I'm not getting a lot of use out of it as a rally car.
  13. Pulled the heads last night, and found the full extent of the damage: Block will need sleeved, and I'd say 4 new pistons, hoping the rods and crank are salvageable...
  14. Just to pull it apart and see how bad the damage actually is, hoping the block, rods, and 3 other pistons are salvageable...
  15. My rally car decided on the weekend that it had a grudge against two of the exhaust valves, and one piston, both lost the fight, and so did my wallet... That last pic is not the sump plug, it was in fact the spark plug from cylinder one..
  16. We used to have one before our current manual STI. The shifts are slow, but you do get used to it, and can kind of 'predict' it, so you just shift a little earlier than you'd expect. A hell of a lot of fun though, for an automatic, and went surprisingly well. But when we got the manual, we could tell just how down-tuned the A-Line was.
  17. Pulled the engine for some maintenance before 4 and Rotary South Island Champs. New rocker cover gaskets, fix the sump leaking. new up pipe gasket, as that was leaking as well, also new turbo inlet and outlet gaskets. Will fix some wiring, and hopefully install some Radium engineering fuel rails. Also a look at the basic twisted setup While it's out Im going to make some brackets for it!
  18. My local dealer got back to me, I'll be ordering the gaskets through them, but not the washers or bolts rocker cover gaskets: $26.45 each Tube gaskets: $11.90 each I'm happy with those, but the washers and bolts: Bolts: $3.51 each washers: $7.94 each I don't really need those two, so will skip them
  19. Oh really? Hmm, could be tempting, it's a PBMS baffled sump, not that it really matters. Annoyingly one of the bolts has had the head snapped off it when I gave it the tiniest tweak with a 1/4 ratchet the other day, so will need to pull the rest of that out, hopefully it comes out nicely! Will have a chat to PBMS and see if they have any of the gaskets. Yeah, I recall the washers being like $4 each or something the last time I went to get some. These were all 3rd party ones, so going genuine this time! I've just emailed my local dealer and seeing if they have any of the stuff. Amayama will be 2+ weeks, so if I can pay a little more and get it from the dealer, then i'll happily do that.
  20. So I took your advice and just did that, but instead of pulling the cover, I pulled the whole engine 🤣 It's also leaking from the sump, and the up pipe gasket, so figured easier to clean it all up outside of the car. The answer to the question is the first gasket set in that link earlier So for future reference the gaskets are (pricing from Amayama): 13270AA062 $29.65 13272AA063 $31.77 The bolts are $800706630 $1.46 Bolt washers 13271AA051 $1.36 plug tube gaskets are 132933AA030 $6.03 On another note, I was amazed at how clean the oil and the heads were in general. This motor has maybe 2,000KM on it, but all of those KM were flat out, no break-in period etc.
  21. Hey all, So my rocker covers and sump are leaking like crazy. I'd like to order some replacements before pulling the motor and doing some maintenance before 4s and Rotors SI Champs. Now I searched TradeMe for a v3 RA, and crabbed the chassis code, then entered that in partsouq, and it gave me three options for it, linked below:*KwFsWElUDBMMawkrHgxeOTQgAAcZaGdqa3lvch5vGScrHyN4YSsvfG9qaXxzeiolMzduanokICkYISVgN2R9Hxpmb25uMDomfHN6PHxlam80Ozl8JnpjfBp6JwAAAAAmCH8U%24&vid=0&cid=&uid=32280&q=GC8-064733 I'm honestly not too sure which one it'll be? I could pull a cover and confirm, but I'd much rather not. I can't just use my Chassis ID, as I just have a BC5 and they're Shim-under-bucket heads that I'm told were from a V3 STI RA. Any ideas before I give in and pull the covers to confirm? Cheers!
  22. Finally fixed my hoist again... Around 6 months ago the chain snapped, which took us ages to finally sort. We bought a new chain $100 or so, and installed that, but then we found the original geared cogs were too worn and were slipping with the new chain. So just procrastinated about that for ages, until last week I mentioned it to my dad, who said to give him a cog. So did that, and he found replacements for $12 each, and then machined them out to fit at his work, and provided new pins etc. While we were at it, he machined out the original motor pulley to fit the replacement motor, as we'd been running a larger pulley, as that's all that could fit. Finally got it all together, and working this week! And for the first time since we've owned it, it can now lift a falcon! Previously with the larger motor pulley it was geared wrong and wouldn't do it! All this means I can FINALY put the legacy back up on the hoist and find the oil leak and exhaust leaks.... Then don't get me started on the fuel rail leaks...
  23. I considered doing that, but ended up getting the chinese fuel rails and making brackets for my intake manifold (Can't recall what version it's off of, I think V4). seems to work alright after I patched up the leaks! Not exactly what you're asking for I know, but just an idea! O just made brackets up to bolt them in. then made up some parallel lines with an external FPR.
  24. Yup, we tested all that before putting the intercooler etc on, as we'd been having issues with the release bearing not actually clipping in. So we ensured it was fully seated and felt good. But we didn't think to actually test dis-engagement, as we wanted to do that with the motor running.
  25. So, we've been trying to sort the clutch change in @bigDnz's BE5, after many a pain in the ass situations, we finally have everything in. But one major problem left, the clutch won't actually disengage. The release bearing has definitely clicked in, and the pedal has been set with full throw. It feels fine, it feels like it's pulling the plate, but not enough to actually release it. Any suggestions on things to try? Somebody said to me to replace the rod in the slave with something longer?