swamp

Hey guys I must be the one of the few WRX owners still riding round on 15s (mine's a 1995 GF8) BUT I'm going for the rally look. Call me stupid but I've been watching Colin McRae tribute rally videos on YouTube and I've been inspired by the gazillions of Pirelli stickers on the 555 cars. As I grew up on WRC and am currently looking for a new set of tyres to replace my 3x windforce tyres and 1x yokohama a-drive that happened cos I needed a WOF, I've decided I need new tyres. I'm keen on 205/65 R15 Pirelli P1 Cinturato, will they fit?

As others have said, avoid. You can get a much cheaper earlier WRX for less, or a newer and faster WRX/STI for the same price. 3-4k and change for mods/servicing would be a good idea.

+1 for meguiars I have a TORQ FX dual action polisher. pretty much an entry level thing. do some research on it though personally I would use a clay bar every time before doing a car.

FMIC helps but it helps even more if painted black with STI stenciled in

I don't mind the nardi, but there are those momo(?) early 2000s wheels which look like something you'd use to steer a startrek spaceship with. Lol

try http://www.mlracing.co.nz/yahoocheatsheet dude orders stuff in from Japan for you. You just pick what you like on yahoo Japan and then contact him. Get your boss kit anyway whether that be momo or nardi, just in case you do need it. YOu can always re-sell if you don't need it.

anyone a pro when it comes to pesky headlight alignments or know a WOF inspector that will give some leeway on this? My car has had a frontal collision before and the thin metal has been crudely beat back into shape and as a result my headlights get killed by the t-square thing I really don't want to give my panelbeater money for something so silly and my car was sold to me with a WOF that wasn't actually a wof for that car (but that's another story).

If I didn't have a v1 WRX, I'd probably have a 1st gen Legacy or a gravel express wrx for the lols I've never had the kind of money for a 300+ bhp Subie or any car for that matter so it's best I stick to the cheap cars and mess about with them.

I 2nd that on maintenance > kms I own a 95 WRX and a 91 MR2, bought 95 WRX with unknown history to replace my MR2 while it was not going. The MR2 has been maintained way better than the WRX and cos both have done 210xxx kms you can tell. I think my WRX was owned by people who didn't really care about cars/cared about hooning but not about maintenance because I'm paying to keep it roadworthy, haha. Whereas when I bought the MR2 I was told it was owned by someone who had it for 14 yrs who had a Toyota mechanic son who maintained it. Most I ever paid for the 2 was some rust cutting and welding in a c-pillar as a result of a dodgy re-spray. Whereas the WRX is much more costly to keep going. Take in to account the insurance cost too. What I'm saying is that when properly maintained the car's condition will be in line with its kms, when it's not the odo may say 100,000 or 200,000 but you can add 50k or more to that to account for the lack of maintenance. Also if its a car that's mainly been a weekend toy and used on backroads/motorways etc and not sitting in traffic then thats a plus. There's more wear when it's a city car sitting in traffic/stopping-starting/and used on a lot of short trips. Flipside to that is hitting redlines out on country roads or worse (from a maintenance standpoint) seen track use. So if you do find a car that has been looked after, has receipts and paperwork etc including wof sheets, and been in someone's ownership for a while then chances are it'll be a relatively safe purchase.

I am more concerned about the common crims rather than the professionals hence why certain approaches appeal to me more.

I love the idea of disconnecting locks so thus rendering screwdriver boiz useless.

Oh and what one should I buy, and where from?

Throw out jack and spare and replace with tyre goo and rely on AA/insurance roadside assistance?

S***, OK I'm gonna spend my Sunday looking on the forum/net for a how-to. And then if it seems alright I will get it towed home and do it myself. Any links which would be a good starting point please? I've never done a fuel pump change ever lol. And another question - do you think it could have been caused by my love of Gull Force 10 fuel?

Hey guys so recently my newly-bought WRX refused to start and the garage I got it towed back to who installed my alarm - have diagnosed it as a fuel pump issue. I'll need a new fuel pump put in. I just want to know if a quote of $550 is a fair price or am I getting ripped off? At the time of the fault I would have had the car for less than a month and I would have done less than 1000kms in it lol. So I'm preparing for a motor vehicle disputes tribunal case.. as a former employee of mvdt I think it could get to that stage.

I personally would never buy second hand springs/shocks unless they're like new old stock or from someone trustworthy. Nothing worse than buying old worn out shocks/springs that have done 200+kms on them and they make your car handle worse than what you had on before.. the shocks may leak and just make your car sound and handle like trash. Because you aren't gonna have the car for any longer I'd say just go with lowering springs.. go for a no name brand or something dirt cheap.. or at least as dirt cheap as new springs go. Obviously if you want to go lower it will cost you a bit more in coil overs + fender work + cert as above people have said. my thoughts exactly... only reason why I can see why you'd want to do a suspension upgrade on a car you want to keep for less than 12 months is that maybe to test out a harder set up and see if its for you or not? my MR2 suspension is naffed so when I do swap out the old worn bits for my factory bilstein inserts and eibach springs ill get a good idea if thats something i wanna keep on a future mr2 if any. I know people who have chucked out hard suspension set ups for street coilovers that are pretty soft by comparison.

I would recommend looking at specs, I'm mr cheap and used a hand-me-down tom tom. Couldn't update maps due to not having password so driving in areas with new motorways etc was fun.

But then fails compliance

Invest in a decent GPS unit, 180-250ish dollars would get you one that alerts you to when you're approaching speed cameras.

check this out http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1210-fix-that-leak-tricks-of-the-trade/

what sizes did you get? I've had RE003s on the rear and S001s for the fronts on a non-subaru car, they were mint!

16 owners only if you can get it at a hugely discounted price and are prepared for the work etc. some interesting advice on this thread here too as I'm new to Subarus... I thought a WRX STI was just that, I didn't know about all the different versions 😜

Hey guys Just wondering if there are any wiring diagrams available for the above models (I specifically have a 1995 GF8 Impreza WRX). I've searched everywhere but surely I must have missed something!