swamp

As a set they're so expensive on yahoo Japan. Just out of curiosity, what cars were these a factory option on? I'm guessing the Legacies after the BG gen as they have genome mufflers.

Cheers Loren that was a big help. I've got mine off, fuel lines and injectors can come off with the manifold but it'll need to be removed from manifold once off the car. Much easier that way. The main challenge was getting stuff out of the way for the Mani to come right off. If you have a hose or line in the way it'll stop it, along with any electrical connections/cable ties. I found my loom connectors were behind my battery. This may be of help to anyone doing their car and it happens to be an early ej20g. Fuel hoses from filter I marked top as R mid as Y bottom as G easy like a traffic light, got that idea from a YouTube video. It was pretty hard to do overall with the amount of hoses. Try and stay organized with bolts and hoses and parts etc. I've kept a few parts in a similar position so I don't muck up their orientation when it comes to putting back on. If I have time I'll check out how to inspect fuel injectors. Unfortunately I don't have the money to get new gaskets but that can be done later.

Apply wax and grease remover and wipe dry. Sand down using wet and dry. Begin at like 400g, progressively move to 1000g. You shouldn't need primer. Make sure no dust or w&g remains. I find w&g is the enemy even decent brands. Mask off like others had said. If blending it's a bit harder with cans, fold your masking tape back a little so it's not a hard edge and DO NOT spray all the way down. Try and fade/blend it in. I spray two light coats or as many as needed for good coverage with 15-20min breaks in between. Once dry wet sand with 2000g lightly. Let dry and cover with 2k clear, thick but not too thick that it runs. Two coats should be OK. Once dry wet sand with 2000g and let it sit for a week or so then compound and polish. Should blend in nicely with existing paint, providing that that paint isn't faded

Hey guys and girls Have pored over the forum and the web for info on the best way to remove my intake manifold for cleaning/painting. At first sight it is a mish with all the hoses and parts connected to it and also blocking access to bolts etc. But no doubt it is doable. I would like to know how you did it, as well as any general precautions I should take? Engine in question is an early EJ20G, one with no coil pack thingy on top. In order I would probably go with: Air intake Breather hoses on top Throttle body Throttle cable Coolant lines to reservoir That's all I can think of now. I've never done this on a flat four or on any other type of engine lol.

It definitely is a pain in the ass. Check under dash too if you have a boost gauge as air can leak there too and it's often overlooked. Glad you got the issue sorted without spending much $$$

Hmm. Does your car struggle to reach 50-60km/h? Use a lot of gas? Trigger a CEL? Run fine off boost? If so, it is running in limp mode. From what you've described I would probably check the spark side of things first. This is because reaching X amount of rpm and then cutting out is usually signs of something bad with the spark. Check plugs and leads for obvious signs of wear. It could be bad coil(s) but you'd have to check first. Advise you to check check check before spending money as it'll get expensive I've fixed a Nissan sr20de auto with similar issues, was Cam angle sensor not sending right messages to ecu to deliver spark, plugs leads dizzy were all rooted. Plus my gf8 recently had a gaping hole in compressor-ic pipe and I had cleaned out intake parts with brake kleen after it had sat for 8+ months. It blew black smoke used a lot of gas and did not want to boost. Replacing the worn/fouled plugs fixed my issue but I also ran through injector cleaner and replaced fuel filter for peace of mind.

Hey guys and gals Just wondering if there's anything I can do about my steering wheel no longer locking. I recently got a new steering rack put in for a wof as the garage reckoned it was leaking from within. Replaced ps pump last year. The two plastic bits over my steering column were previously pretty loose but now kinda rub on the steering wheel when I turn it. Steering wheel lock is a good anti theft device... But working power steering feels so stiff and much safer than the light sloppy steering im used to. Thoughts please on how I can get my steering wheel lock back?

Hey guys, I've done a bit of searching the forum and web but still no answers. My central locking no longer works - it'll lock all doors by both key and remote but when it comes to opening the doors I will have to use the key in drivers and manually unlock other doors. I've sprayed a bit of CRC in the assembly which got it working for like ten secs but it got stuck again. I've put the issue down to the drivers door actuator motor box. After pressing or turning key to unlock, there's a slow sticky sluggish sound to it. Im not sure if it's that, or all five doors need replacing. Also model in question is a my94 turbo GF8, have lost the link to interchangable parts list but can anyone confirm if non turbo actuators of gf/gc series are the same? Thanks

How to get into grade m learner tarmac rally? Of course something im years away but dreams are free lol Does anyone use tein, kyb or Megan racing? I'll probably go with cusco just because they offer a wide range of suspension parts and ideally it should all work nicely together.

Hey guys Can't find nothing on the forum here about good alignment places in Gisborne Or Tauranga. This was because I am moving out of Auckland very soon and I'll need to know wheres the best place for this. Do our awd cars need experienced alignment specialists, or will just any shop do? I prefer someone who isn't afraid of commenting on the state of my springs bushes ball joints etc

What's the smoke like out the back of your car? Get a mate to rev it while in your driveway and watch. If black its a sign you're running too rich. I'd suggest changing fuel filter spark plugs and running some strong injector cleaner in your fuel tank. If that doesn't fix it time to test your afm with a multimeter and possibly clean. Let us know how it goes.

Damn Alex you are everywhere

Just for a bit of sound. I am aware of the negatives of having air go back and spin the turbo, but I will eventually have a bov that sounds similar like a hks ssqv for peace of mind. Then again it is a cheap old gf8 with a td04 which can easily be replaced.

Hmmm. I have replaced my holy plastic hot side pipe with one made of rad hose and some Silicon hose. From memory the Silicon is 45mm diameter. Granted this is a cheap and temporary fix due to my goal being just get car road legal and to my new home 500km away. Already it feels a bit more laggy due to the gentler bends I have in my new ugly unit, but probably because there's less restriction in the piping ie bottle necks. I was just wondering if I increased this diameter by Say 20mm with a fabricated stainless flange and aluminum piping/silicon hose, and in theory fitted a larger throttle body and welded larger diameter flange to the tmic, in addition to repairing damaged cooling fins.. Would I see a) neglible performance gains, or b) need a tune?

Yesterday I took my GF8 out for a quick stretch of the legs just to make sure everything is in order before I move out of Auckland. Could barely hit 5000rpm with the amount of traffic, on a Saturday arvo on SH20. But it builds boost nicely and feels responsive. Perhaps that hole in the old compressor-ic pipe was already there but smaller before.

Problem solved, but I was just wondering as I had a boost leak yesterday due to doing a lazy job of fixing the pipe, and blew a bit of black smoke, should I need to clean my spark plugs? If so this time I am wearing gloves.

Nice!! I won't show you mine lol but I've got compressor surge Now. I had to take off an elbow which was letting out any boost above a certain pressure and replace it with a 90deg rad hose. Tightened it all up and et voila. Jumped off motorway to be safe but ride home if felt very good and boost built. Think I got it to about 5000rpm with no hassles. Everything has to be super tight or else the air will escape through any way it can find.

More details please sounds like what I'm after. I have an old pod filter connecting to maf then alloy intake and I think rubber hose connector. Was your cold air box aluminium? Did you use factory bov?

Cometely deleted bov, blocked up all hoses and no sutututu. The internet says it's more likely to work on FMIC due to more piping and air in system, but I will try having a cold air intake complete with aluminum piping and maybe increasing the diameter of the other sides piping. All aluminum of course which supposedly reverberates better.

I've deleted my BOV, left it on there from the intake side but it is disconnected from the compressor-ic side. Come to think of it, I think I'm venting to atmosphere which sounds nice but won't pass WOF. will try clamping small vacuum hose to bov and turning it 180deg to see if that flutters

I would say fake carbon fibre vinyl is a car crime. There's some good ones out there that are thicker/durable/glossy but then there's cheap and nasty. I have it all in my dash and on my mirrors. Beats looking at bland plastic and faded to hell red paint. Partly why I am a bit nervous to start a build thread

Thread dredge Mine will probably look like this: Cut/trim off all plastic beneath the lower front indicator (I have a pre facelift v1 gf8) without being a rough **** and chopping the whole lot of it. Fit some mesh HKS mushroom filter if it can fit, nicely secure, probably slightly higher up by about 150 - 200mm in the case of hydrolocking Connected with aluminum piping same diameter as MAF, which will stay in stock location. Think it will work lol

Cheers guys for your responses. Fortunately it wasn't anything expensive like a faulty injector, ignition coil or sensor. I had spent the most hours and money trying to fix my boost leak (coming from the turbo compressor side to intercooler). Car currently drives fine and builds boost. Battery read at 11v so that got a charge, maf sensor was working fine but I'm yet to go over that again with the car running. Fuel was pumping through fine. Put it down to spark. I had already pulled my plugs last night. I used a standard deep 16mm socket as I found 5/8 spark plug socket did not grab at all. Installed new NGK platinum plugs today, old ones were terrible and even though they were platinum, fouled, electrodes were worn and smelt like fuel. Gapped the new ones too to .06mm which was recommended online. Replaced the fuel filter too which had rust. Probably hadn't been changed in years. Chucked in some fuel injector cleaner - I went with Rislone as it was cheapish and the marketing did put alot of emphasis on clearing injectors. It started up and runs fine!! Turns out it was the plugs. I would think that they were just worn out, but cleaning out the throttle body/maf/iacv with brake kleen probably clogged them up so bad it killed them. Would advise those doing intake cleans that they do it with old one cheap plugs.

Cheers guys I'm trying to do plugs now but seems a 3/8 just can't get in there to grip the plug. The car starts but dies a split second after. Once I get it going I'll be able to get codes. Edit: im trying to use a 5/8.

Hi guys ive let my MY94 GF8 sit for 6 months while I travelled the country. I returned to my car idling very poorly - jumping from 2.5k to 1k rpm which was fixed by cleaning out iacv and tb. Cleaned out MAF. All done with brake cleaner which the internet has said is safe, not as $$ as purpose built products but better than using harsher products like carb cleaner. Then since first drive I've been in limp mode; put it down to a boost leak - found a gaping hole in turbo compressor-ic pipe which I've replaced. My car has blown alot of smoke since I've cleaned out TB/iacv, but when driving on limp mode this has been black smoke. Plus $55 gas at like $2.35/l only got me 80km lol so there's a fueling issue there. I've also made a big mistake of clearing codes by disconnecting negative terminal of battery thinking this was part of cleaning iacv but I've gone and wiped all codes by accident Can anyone recommend a solution please. I'm thinking of 1. Inspecting spark plugs and cleaning (they haven't been done in my 20000km of ownership) 2. Running some injector cleaner in the fuel tank and 3. Testing the MAF with a multimeter.