YoungOne

V-Mount intercooler setup with a tiny little alloy radiator, sits at 90 degrees on trackdays with 20 minute sessions.

2cents, Subys that I've seen have engine issues on track are usually 'ambitiously' modified/maintained and driven very hard as one would drive an N/A honda (right up near the redline all the time). Generally the standard or mildly modified ones in good nick can cruise around all day no problem.

Could just be the belt slipping, try tensioning the pulley if you haven't already, check the belt isn't fraying around the edges etc etc. P/S pumps can be rebuilt but obviously depends whats wrong with them. Can get quite expensive quite quickly though from my experience.

No shouldn't do anything, one thing to note is the STI bonnets are alloy and considerably lighter than WRX ones.

Added a billet one off ebay for a laugh a while back, couldn't feel any difference. Sure it does something in theory and it looks sort of cool but can't tell on track or road if its there or not, car already has a lot of NVH so might've missed that aspect. Edit: this was the most solid one I could find, way beyond a Grp N and still couldn't tell, drag racing/launching talk sounds logical to me and I haven't done that myself so couldn't comment

Literally never got why DC5's are so expensive, read about them, couldn't see it, drove one, didn't get it. As for the article according to the google its the end of the U.K importer of Subaru's importing them, so wouldn't get too punchy with the savings account. Its still an interesting point as there must be a reason they're stopping but won't affect NZ.

I'm thinking the same thing haha

So how long does 98 last before it starts becoming unusable, trying to hunt down a misfire and the only thing I can think of at this point is the fuel which has been sitting in the tank for a couple of months. Is it a possibility?

Just had a look myself and hell its pretty bleak on trademe. 5 years back there would be like 12 pages of GC8's and you'd aim for a 1999-2000 STI with 140,000K's for 7K.

Car: 1999 Type R Tuned: EJ22T stroked to 2.35, GT3076R, 850cc Injectors, Version 7 6 speed. Fuel: BP 98 Fuel Economy: 9L/100km highway, 13L/100km town, >21L/100km spirited driving

Try this its a cheap solution (like most drift ideas) and can't do any harm. If you're still running the factory hood scoop (not that they're very big on a BC) with a FMIC that could also be an issue as well as in theory it'll be creating a high pressure zone in the engine bay and working against the radiator and fmic, I'd take it off and see if it makes any difference.

That basically sums it up, its pretty noticeable, which in a pretty loud car I figure that's quite a big noise, if it gets any worse I'll upload but after replies I suspect this is normal. I think your theory is correct, I've got a 6 speed not a 5 but it does sound like its coming from the rear differential so not too worried about the gearbox, might change the oil in the gearbox and diff at some stage. But seems likes its a pretty common thing so not too worried now.

Hi All Installed a Laile rear diff brace (as pictured below) on my car last weekend, pretty sure I did it right, no way to really install it wrong, and I'm getting BIG grinding noises from the rear diff on deceleration, not talking about a little whine, like big noises. I expected a bit of extra NVH but this doesn't sound healthy. Anyone had any issues with these braces putting too much stress into the rear diff (key point here might be that the engine and trans mounts are still standard?). Or am I just being paranoid? Pic Cheers

I'm no expert but usually I ask for around 1.5 degree negative camber front, 1 degree negative rear and and 2-4mm total toe out at the rear and 0 at the front on a GC8. Seems to give a decent drive that doesn't follow cambers heaps and isn't stupidly hard on tires. Would also be interested to hear what others do.

Your not seriously arguing that a trackday is an inappropriate venue for driving cars because your daddy's supercars didn't feel fast are you?

Mate this isn't a forum for showing off what you've bought and bragging about putting other people's lives at risk. You've obviously got a passion for cars and $$$ to spend, make that a positive experience that doesn't harm anyone

This. If your tuner doesn't know what the duty cycle is you're up the creek without a paddle man.

SSI equal lengths have been on my car for 4 years+ with no problems

Model: 99 V5 Type R - 312kw @ 22psi Displacement: 2.35L Mods: EJ22T, GT3076R gen 1, Syvecs S6 GP, 850cc Injectors, 22 PSI, AVCS Heads, L19 studs, Mahle 2618 Pistons, Pauter Rods, 79mm Crank + more Fuel: BP 98 Tuner/Dyno: Raijin Performance

OEM Rotors are fine on the street unless you're towing a boat for 6 hours down a hill or something. Pads are where you get the stopping power for $$$. Thread here about what pads people use:

Wow that's actually kind of impressive they can get them so cheap. Haha this is the reason why I ask to see if anyone else has done the risky part

Ok so has anyone here had any experience with these TD05-20g's from Redline Performance? From the price I think I can probably guess the quality and country of origin. What other options would bolt up to a hawkeye WRX to get 190-210wkw for a reasonable price? Not wanting to go rotated here Link: https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/td05-20g-turbo-420hp-wrx-and-sti-bolt-on/

Good point. They are 'technically' road legal though aren't they?

Looking at getting some tires for trackdays. Like the pricing of the Nankang products and am looking at the AR-1. Has anyone used these or seen them in action?

Yeah if it doesn't hold I'll have to do that, curious to see if this works though