Loren

I removed the water pump cut the impeller off, gutted the thermostat and replaced pump. Next to fit a temp sensor to the inlet elbow and refit cambelt etc.

A proper LSD would obviously be better though... and you'd need to change your driving style quite a bit for a locked diff I think.

lol, I don't think anyone one is insisting that he weld the diff up I also think you are exaggerating the wear factor by quite a lot. The rear tyres get bugger all wear compared to the front, as 60% of the weight is at the front, 60% of the torque is at the front for a non dccd gearbox, and they do all the turning. The car will be more stable and more predictable in oversteer situations. It will feel more planted and give the driver the confidence to push harder and go faster.

Is that you Doctor Ropata? I bought the WRX a Davies Craig EWP and booked the Legacy in for a 100000 km service.

It would be a definite improvement Alistair McRae won the Leadfoot festival twice with welded center and rear diff

Yeah diffs are expensive... rebuilding them is expensive too.

Shimming only works on plated diffs. Throw it out and get a Cusco plated diff to go in there. Putting a thicker oil in there might help a bit, but the key problem is that these diffs don't lock when torque is applied.

Wow old thread. I know a guy with a new Ford Focus RS which has similar tech... he was driving down the street and came up to a car that was parked, but not very well... and the RS slammed the brakes on so hard the belts caused bruising.

Got my first notice today.

It doesn't sound like you are very committed... just wait until you are ready to spend a decent amount of money on what you really want.

The inlet size is going to hurt... 2 inch vs 4 inch! But also, I can't help thinking that the stock location turbos are designed to spool faster and give a more stock like feel, but with extra power? It would be a bit of a shock for most people... though the yanks have 2.5 litres anyway, so maybe not such an issue.

I thought it was common knowledge that the stock location equivalents were much smaller and therefore not the real deal? Maybe I'm just a clever clogs.

Just make sure it's serviced regularly... warmed up before getting on the boost or revving the S*** out of it... and then drive it like you stole it.. it will be fine.

Clean the inside of the windscreen (rainex anti-fog)... replaced the front wiper blades... removed the rear wiper assembly (bit of weight reduction)... took an angle grinder to the jack holder (to make a bit more space)... packed it with racing wheels/tyres and tools etc ready for sprint tomorrow... updated ECU logging profile... checked oil level, put 0.5 a litre in... bought some more oil... earlier in the week I had the front bumper opened up to allow more air to get through the intercooler and radiator and added shrouding.

Manuals do suck for bumper to bumper, start/stop driving... autos suck a lot more for everything else though.

Do you want reliability or a sh1t tonne more power? They generally don't go hand in hand. There is no cheap or easy way top get an extra 100 kw out of a naturally aspirated engine. The 3.0r has plenty of torque and power (no way it has 260kw at the flywheel though)... just drive it stock for a while and enjoy it.

Yes, doing too much of that recently, but I have no time and no decent workspace and am sick of missing out on racing.

Sounds good to me... the more mechanical noise the better

Might have been something very simple it turns out... the radiator cap not holding bugger all pressure I've had the turbo water system separated out anyway and I think some radiator shrouds have been added. There is a short hillclimb on Sunday so it should be obvious if an improvement has been made.

All this talk about a pitch stopper. What is the world coming to? Solid engine mounts, gearbox mounts and rear diff mounts are noisy. A pitch stopper though?

Depends what you read... the cavitation problem is not supposed to be bad with the JDM water pumps... the USDM pumps which are fitted to lower revving 2.5 litre motors are worse. If fixing the air flow through the radiator and adding a separate radiator for the turbo doesn't work, replacing the main radiator will be next. If there are still problems, maybe an electric pump and/or get the tune checked... maybe taking some timing out will help, but I'm not keen on losing power :0

That's correct... I guess the dyno isn't as intensive as competition driving. Plenty of recovery time between power runs while things are checked and adjustments are made. I have a laggy turbo so need to keep the revs at or above 5000 at all times... can't help things.

Turbo makes a big difference... core hasn't been checked, though there are no cold spots and the radiator cools things down pretty quick once I've stopped driving. Also, no heat problems on the dyno and never any problems for road driving. If the secondary radiator, shrouding, oil cooler and mo cool don't help, I'll look at the main radiator. I would have looked at it before putting the secondary radiator in, but macbilt have said the secondary radiator for the turbo has been required on all their WRX race cars. It's a new genuine Subaru 78 degree thermo... bottom pipe gets hot at the right temp.

I've changed the coolant a couple of times and tried watering it down more... also just put some mo cool in. I've drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat... I was told it would flow earlier and a bit better, but it didn't really help. Oil cooler didn't help much either.

Sounds like I'm having more trouble than anyone on here then 113 degrees C with just a 5km hillclimb. I will put some shrouding around the radiator... macbilt think my radiator is a bit small due to the sides being trimmed to accomodate the fmic piping and think a motorcylcle radiator added under the hood scoop might fix the problem.