Loren

If you look at external wastegates they have two ports. One port pushes the gate open, and the other holds it closed. So operating in a situation where the spring pressure is too light to hold the gate shut in order to meet the desire boost level, is normal in a lot of situations. But not with a factory setup.

That's what I was saying, but with less words and civility.

So you want to hear from someone that changed their spring pressure and/or actuator for no reason? Probably not the person you want advice from Unless you are having a boost control problem, there likely isn't anything to improve.

That's different, factory tints look darker from the outside. Aftermarket tints look just as dark from inside the car. As for exhaust noise... I live on a very busy street and hear extremely loud cars, motorbikes, trucks and even Utes ... all the time. No way they are legal, but still common.

If you remove the wing, I think you still need to put a high stop light on the rear parcel shelf anyway.

Is it a bolt in or weld in?

If it's the valve seals it will also smoke when you come off throttle as as engine vacuum sucks oil past the seals. If there isn't any smoke, then either it's not the seals, or not enough of a problem to worry about it. When my turbo seals were going, there was visible oil in the rear housing, but thinking about it, it smoked continuously not just on start up. Also, it might just be nothing... the engine is horizontal so maybe oil is running off the sides of the cylinders and pooling at the bottom... and just gets burned off when you start it up. Probably best not to worry about it if it's not using a lot of oil and you don't have to top up all the time.

valve seals or turbo seals.

Yeah oil pans are a bitch.

It will drive fine... unlikely that the 02 sensor is used for anything more than a fail safe. If you are worried just message Chris and tell him the situation.

What ECU? If there is no cat in the downpipe, there is no need for an O2 sensor right by the turbo... you only need the one, and down the far end of the downpipe is a better location. It's too hot right by the turbo for an O2 sensor under load, and only used in a factory setup to cycle the AF ratio up and down (when cruising) to keep the cat in the downpipe clean.

No cats in a twin scroll up-pipe so no need for an O2 sensor pre turbo. No issue for me as the gc8 never had a pre-turbo cat either.

Well actually you are way over sensitive, hence all your "have I killed my car" posts.

ride the clutch on a hill start... don't launch it then "lug it" ffs. why is it stuttering now? probably driver error. just keep driving it... when it stops moving... it's broken.

It will be more expensive than most in the case of the head gaskets because the engine has to come out of the car... and there are two cylinder heads. I'd say ballpark $2000 if it's a very simple job. Lot's more if the mating surfaces are not within tolerance. A lot depends on what else needs replacing too... if you want the car to be leak free and reliable for a long period, you'd be looking are replacing the cambelt, idlers, water pump, oil seals... it can go downhill very quickly and end up being much more expensive.

Are you asking how much it costs or just want a recommendation for a good quality mechanic?

Take it to a mechanic to diagnose properly before buying any parts.

Have you tried hitting the dash surround?

Agree with @Joker... unless you are a mechanic and know exactly what you are doing, and know exactly what parts you need, and can get said parts really cheap, and know exactly what is required to make it road legal... forget it.

It gets easier every time you do it definitely.

It's a challenge for sure... lot's of perseverance required... but challenging yourself is a good thing.

No point trying to diagnose now as the engine is coming out for sure!

Today so far I have attempted to fit my engine back in the car twice.... first time not enough tilt on the engine... second time it lined up and went on the gearbox perfectly... except I hadn't put the clutch fork on !!!!!

Yes, but firstly he has a standard sti motor... with 195 kw, so won't need bigger brakes just because of that. But you specifically mentioned he would need bigger rear brakes, cause it's rear wheel drive. It doesn't work like that. Hydraulic handbrakes are a separate issue... and would not warrant bigger rear brakes or even seperate callipers necessarily.

@Gripless You can make you own seats mounts, you don't need sliding rails. Also his brake bias has not been altered at all, so the rear brakes don't need changing.