Loren

Possibly but they have different heads, so probably be a few road blocks.

Or you could buy a running wrecker motor and pull it apart and refresh at your leisure... and then hopefully by the time your motor goes... you have a drop in replacement. If your motor does not blow... you have a motor up your sleeve to sell if you decide to sell the car. That's potentially a lot of money sitting around in your garage doing nothing though... might be better in an investment fund.

I have used a new sti short block in the past. Also rebuilt once and in the process of doing that again. The first motor I blew was a stock standard v5 sti motor... so the replacement sti short block was a no brainer for me. The second motor had forged internals... so rebuilding is the only option really. Forged crate motors are way way too expensive. 5k is not realistic for either of theses options. If you are doing everything properly and using a mechanic... up to 10k is more realistic.

It will probably come right back on... you hadn't actually said what problems you had previously though. A small work around might be to adjust the throttle so that it's open very slightly... there's a small adjustment screw just under where the throttle cable attaches. It might mean the ICV has a bit less work to do and might improve things a bit.

Are you actually having idle control problems or have just found an error code relating to the ICV? If you aren't having idle problems then maybe it's an old code... clear it and see if it comes back.

It's most likely just your imagination.

One scrape and your life is over. Why do we do it to ourselves?

Lucky you... I managed a full loom de-wire / re-wire last lock down... this year all I can think of is tidying up the jack points on the sills. The engine is out for a rebuild and I possibly need a new turbo, so I can't even do any online shopping

Have you tried it? You can always just read the codes from the dash... rather than try and connect a device.

They look very nice.. lots of people could make something just as nice locally.

What don't you like about them? I had one of their 3 inch downpipes once... what annoyed the hell out of me was that it wasn't designed to fit with the existing oem mid pipe... they made it about an inch too short and put the flange on a different angle. Infuriating. It was also was made from mild steel which was covered in surface rust in a short period of time.

Looks fatal.

I know someone that just imported a set of used struts from the US. Good price and very good condition when they turned up. https://www.rockauto.com/ Hard to find anything not shagged in NZ... rebuilding shocks costs more than buying new KYBs.

How do you know the misfire is on 4? Do you think it's lean all the time or just on boost? Lot's of oil in the intercooler is to be expected if you had a broken ring land as all the extra blow by goes straight back into the intake system.

What you got? Rear subframe lock kit... and?

oh you have coil on plug.. I always forget that... removes one possible source of a misfire. Was the cause of the first engine failure ever diagnosed? Like was it detonating or running lean... and has that been fixed?

Up to you... your money. The rears don't get a lot of heat compared to the front, so some repco replacements will probably be fine.

Spark leads? No point doing a leakage test if the compression is even across all cylinders.

Looks like stock mid section and off the shelf rear section and muffler... both have been hacked since I've had it. It sits nice and high like a stock exhaust.

Can you elaborate on how you lose precision? Most reviews I read and watch on YT with a Kartboy/Bushing combo or CObb/Bushing Combo speak about how much more precise and great the shifter feels. You lose precision because all the distances are smaller.... imagine the extreme case where the distance between 1st and 2nd was only 1 cm... and the distance between 1st and 3rd was only 5mm. Your ability to judge the position of each gear is diminished... your ability to tell when it's properly engaged is diminished... and your feel for if you are lining up each change correctly, is also diminished.

A much better idea as it it doesn't sound like any extra power is wanted. I have done this in the past.

I wasn't joking... it's a lot of work. Any shortcuts taken are at your peril. The heads might not need decking. If you have all the lifter clearances checked and they are good (they won't be) you won't need to do that... but valve seals are cheap, so you'd be crazy not to do it as the heads have to be off the car to replace them. As for rocker cover oil seals... cheap compared to everything else, and who wants their brand new engine leaking oil?

You'll need a mechanic that can work out the correct head gasket thickness to ensure the compression ratio is correct... and that you don't get any valve to piston collisions. If those two things are all good, then it should be a fairly straight forward process... and no tuning should be required. Oh and your heads might need decking... which will increase the cost... plus you'd most likely want to have all the valve seals replaced and all the clearances set. You may as well renew the clutch while the motor is out too. Oh and all the oil seals for the rocker covers and cams will need replacing. Probably a new cambelt and all the idlers and the tensioner etc. Also looks like the RCM short blocks don't come with an oil pump or water pump.

I had a GFB short shifter on mine... was terrible... you lose precision... can't tell when it's in gear properly... can 't tell what gear it's in... can easily change into the wrong gear. Hated it.

All the whiteline stuff is fine IMO... never noticed much of an increase in nvh with any of their stuff.