Gripless
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Everything posted by Gripless
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Fuel Injector Clinic FIC has 1200cc injectors that are all 1-2% matched sets. 450whp E85 650whp pump gas USD$540 They say idle and street driving is fine until you go past the 1650cc set which does. 580whp E85 780whp pump gas USD$840 Bonus they have spreadsheets for the stock ecu for reflashing. http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/wrx-stilate How they match sets
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What @BattleSnayke Motul. Get it from Toyota north shore or manakau. Cycletreads the bike shop in takapuna used to be cheapest. They had the 660 brake fluid ver very cheap too.
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My understanding was they brought in bulk then just matched them up into smaller sets. Some companies do flow others flow and dead time. Other thing is the factory plug is denso so that would save having an adaptor cable added to the mix. ID also use fancy alloy extension but others are plastic like the injector
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So other than figuring out all the extras like injectors belts and bolts cost add up fast. Still not sure what the difference between $1000 and $600 injectors are when the are both the same cc and Bosch or denso. I started to clean up the intake manifold and discovered there are large casting marks just around the last bend for #4. Not just normal seam castings but a 1-2mm raises 10mm diameter circle. Carbides and sanding pads don’t reach. #2 also has one but it not right on the start of the curve. Also it looks like since the #4 runner is so low and flat it gets to collect the most oil that gets into the intake. The manifold is also 4mm smaller diameter than the TVG’s so much more grinding to do. Just have to make sure it’s all lined up.
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Thanks for this... I’d seen those Athena ones and they looked good and about the only 2.0L ones. Ok so these are just JE Pro Seal gaskets and sizes are limited. http://www.jeproseal.com/sport_compact.html ebay only has the intake AVCS ones. Will have to try Subaru NZ to see if they are helpful. EFR looked nice but I’d block the BOV and run the GFB one still I think.
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Update Sounds like 13-14mm head studs are not worth the effort and haven’t been solving any gasket issues. So they are out and the 625 11mm ARP studs are about the best option so they should be on the list. Current plan is for: 79mm billet crank stroker to 2.13L latest JE pistons that are coated and gas ported Some rods to match Random other things: Seems the W motorsports block won’t even need closed decking for 600hp. So that is on the fence as the crank adds so much cost. Head gaskets need to be figured out as there are so newer options with copper “fire” rings that may help. Turbo is still a mystery option interested to hear what people think? Looks like it will have to be rotated or low mounted so it can be big enough to make power. Also if any one has a parts list for all the seals etc you need for a rebuild that would be awesome...
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Nope But it’s sold at Walmart so there must be a tonne out there. There is the baby seat one to though I guess which maybe the more popular. Canada seems to have it approved by their rallisport for use in all club events as compliant with some sections of their standards. Says crash tested but could see any standards. Still $75 plus shipping it’s close to a secondhand harness and eye bolts. Just that it would be usable every day. Are there any subarus with explosive tensioners?
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Yes, yes it did No idea if it was running like that on the car but that’s what I got.
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This morning Picked up the spare parts - Worlds worst wastegate. Greasy mess with poor seals and shiny blue top. - Vf49 stock turbo. Looks ok and no in/out play but told it not in good condition. May get it looked at later. - Stock STi headers which are 39mm so almost perfect for 40mm head work that’s coming. I have a set already so can just grind the existing ones a little and keep the ceramic coating intact. - Twinscroll up pipe - Twinscroll up pipe wastegate and twisted adaptor. Have to unbolt it and check it out. - Stock STi pistons std and just look dirty - Stock STi rods clean and tidy - Stock STi 75mm crank measures up std - Stock dual AVCS STi cams - Stock valve springs and retainers - 6 Speed flywheel There is more like a clutch and the air pump valves and baffled sump that may be reused. Plus Grabbed the TVG and intake manifold castings so I can grind them to flow more.
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Have you read The single turbo conversion thread 2.0
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I’m happy with anything north island. Preferably warmer summer months but was fun in the wet last year. I haven’t done hamptons since the full track was done. Or even the little club one. Someone just needs to bring a BBQ and we can have a lunch or dinner depending on when they kick you out. That and keep the fire away for the cars and fuel blah blah blah etc etc.
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Update Today... talked to Kelford Sounds like the 220-B are the cams to go for if sub 600hp but bordering on the 220-c. Dual AVCS make them very street friendly. They have valve guides and seals along with spring option all available And Horsepower heads agreed with fully ported heads the 220-B cams will support huge power. The exhaust port will be exiting at 40mm so need to address the headers size as likely only 32 or 36mm this maybe within the ability to stretch the factory headers to smooth the exit. The dog leg port will flow close enough to the straight one to make no practical difference. No change to the intake port outer shape so the TVG and manifold won’t need any work above the deletes and tidy up. the factory valve guides aren’t exactly great. But the ones in the new engine are worn so need replacement anyway. Inconel valves for exhaust are a recommended option to handle the high heat. And an email from PBMS looks like valve springs and billet crank are the best option for striker and keeping the current 8500rpm redline. Need to go have a proper chat about the range of options.
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4 & R North Island Jamboree 10th year Anniversary! Manfeild March 23/24 2019
Gripless replied to Joker's topic in Club Events
Ok so a really really big sheet to cover the engine. -
4 & R North Island Jamboree 10th year Anniversary! Manfeild March 23/24 2019
Gripless replied to Joker's topic in Club Events
Who was water cutting brackets up for a swaybar? Could do some nice panels to hold up bonnet autosalon style. Even plastic sheet cut would be cool. -
Someone who has a CNC copy this and no more worries about corners https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/killer-b-oil-control-valve-suit-subaru-wrx-sti-my08-14-gh8-grb.html
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Get it on a dyno with a wide band o2 hooked up and see what the tune is really like. Then make a plan when you know what’s happening. Could have been tuned when the exhaust was done.
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it’s pretty S*** if they did it knowingly. Like @pedro said the belt maybe mint. Belts don’t degrade as fast as they used to and depends on how much heat they are subjected to etc so check this first and get a written quote with details about its condition. If you want to go ahead this is all I can think of but I’m not a lawyer and have no idea. Think you can only seek $500 without proper court hearing so check that I have been there for a loooong time. even still it’s 3rd hand information. You may have text message from them but they are going on information that the dealer gave them and they are likely off the previous owner. Ive only been involved in collecting evidence for big cases where text messages were involved and we had to get the phone company to produce the logs. I suspect on smaller cases the “judge” will just ask the other party if they are true. The seller may genuinely thought the belt was that old. How long have they owned the car etc could to be looked at. There is a good faith component. You should seek a portion from the seller and try to settle it outside the legal system ps. Still not a lawyer and I know nothing pps. Good luck either way hope you get good news on the belt condition or some money.
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Surprise 1 So the engine has been torn down. Results are good. Engine looks better than expected No evidence of cracked piston or low compression that resulted in the engine removal and sale. So a set of STi rods and pistons will be for sale soon. Now the hard question Should I sell the mint 2L crank and get a 2.5L crank or not? The idea of a 2.2L has its appeal for obvious reasons GR-22-B
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Good service and looked after well on the prices. I’ve got all my whiteline parts through them.
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The previous owner of my car got all the work done there as I did early on. Good service and zero complaints.
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I’ve been there quite a few times now for different things including a bunch of turbosmart parts and they have always been helpful and prices on non-Toyota parts are really very good.
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Interesting parts from Crawford who built the Subaru gymkhana cars. http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1103-subaru-ej-series-engine-tech/ “Aftermarket water pump with a cast turbine that flows more water, whereas the OEM piece allows for water to bypass the blades and does not flow as much water.” Ok was going to replace anyway so will check what type the replacement is. “Another falsified fact is using a lower-temp thermostat will make your motor run cooler in hot weather but in reality it will have zero effect on increasing your engine's cooling capability.” Wasn’t considering this and won’t likely add it now. “People believe larger pressure/volume oil pumps are always better because the factory oiling system on the EJ motors are inadequate, when in fact, a high-pressure oil pump can cause oil cavitation while lowering the ability for any oiling system to work efficiently.” Heard this one a lot already. “Other falsified facts include tuners believing that installing 1mm oversized intake and/or exhaust valves over the stock size valve seats will increase cfm airflow” Ok that’s take that off the list. Plus I suspect it was going to add cost to pistons ”and the best of all that makes me laugh every time I hear it is "you can make 500 whp safely on pump gas." Hopefully this is American were gas is crap and more like 91. “For really high-horsepower applications, pinning the mains and oversized head studs and/or an O-ringed cylinder head may become necessary.” Don’t think I’ll be getting to this point but depends on price.
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The details will appear here and across YouTube and I’m guessing Facebook. I was going to add more in extra posts but needed to wait for a bit or it merges them all into one. So far the engine has been purchased and picked up. The engine should come with everything including twin scroll headers and stock sti turbo. Plus some extras like a baffled sump and a twisted turbo adaptor. So there will be a heap of stock parts to sell off.
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What is this project? Its an engine build with a discussion and details about options and trade offs building an engine. Hopefully heaps of photos and video. Why? Because I couldn’t find the details I wanted online in one place and heaps of builds leave out the discussion on why they picked the parts and what flow on effects it makes. Plus after @Joker posted about Facebook YouTube take over I saw a motor and it seemed like a good idea at the time. Whats with the name? It came for a PM from @PBMS as the base engine for this is a EJ207 W block with a suspected cracked piston that on one has looked at yet. Until it’s opened there’s no idea on what’s inside. When does it start? It started March 2019. Where is it? it will be in this topic mostly and across Possum Bourne MS YouTube etc. before the engine is assembled I hope to video in 4K all the parts and write up the reasoning behind each How long? over the next few months since the engine is a donor the cars stays on the road. Whats the plan? Build a great motor with well through your part selection. Everything is pretty much open to ideas as things are added to the list. Initial thoughts are: - build it for around 800hp (was 600hp) and then street it about 500whp. - Stay 2.0 as the cost of stroking it is higher and I can’t seem to own a car that won’t rev out to at least 8,000 rpm - CNC the heads since it isn’t that much - Cams around 264 but has dual AVCS so maybe bigger, but needs to be streetable - close deck maybe depends on block condition
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