Gripless

Have you called Subaru with the original cars plate or chassis number and asked if they can get you the code? if it's NZ new they should have a record of it or be able to reset it.

Has anyone done this on the 08+ Impreza? I was lucky that my came with a piggy back loom for the ignition power for the toll card reader, so I will be able to get the extra power for brake switch easy if there is no extra plug.

Just a guess but fuel return or breather and fuel level sender is common in 4wd and rwd cars since the tank has almost two halves due to clearing the driveshaft. best to return warmed fuel to as far from the pump as you can.

No cert invalidates your insurance even if you have a WOF. atleast when they are cheap the insurance company can accept the cost. You get about 10% of the insured value as mods with most before you have to go to a more expensive performance friendly company. For 09 up there is no WRX STI, there is a WRX and an STI. Subaru dropped the wrx from the sti to make seperate the sti more which is why the sti was widebody and the WRX wasn't, until they made WRX wide body at the end, I guess to use up the over supply of sti panels. so it's too hard to tell what things fit without the chassis codes.

Ok now I sometimes come up with strange ideas and just now I came up with something I want to run past the people that know the Subaru engine well. so when you remove the airpump there are two holes that people blank off. Now here's the strange idea part... In theory these are exhaust ports and if I was to weld a bung to the blanking plate I could fit exhaust temp probes in to them and have no need to modify the exhaust piping and save ever having to remove the sensors to do work where the exhaust has to be removed. That or mini waste gate ports that don't flow much.

@MattK seriously good luck with finding one, they do show up but you'll have to be really quick when it does. trademe even with a search emailed is slow and misses the poorly listed ones. I've seen them in the Impreza and WRX listings as well not just the sti ones. Theres a a wrx with a gearbox not installed for 2k get that fixed and a new engine at what you are looking at spending. im tempted to get it just to track and abuse so it might go soon.

But that reduces the rice value if they aren't bright coloured and everyone can't see them.

tui brewery is just over the hill too. extension is cool too if you've never done it, narrower and very flat. heading into the wet unpredictable season for weather at the end of April. But brewery have big umbrellas over the tables so sorted there.

My bad assumed you got a good deal on it. same as that one that went last week fully rebuilt and upgraded for 5k. Owner pissed off and just wanted it gone.

Easier to get cheaper WRX and spend some $ on it. Any sti that old will have worn suspension and other bits that will make it worse than a maintained WRX. or sti parts swapped over from the wreaked one. ive missed out on a nice WRX rebuilt last week. There are also wrx's on trademe with sti engine swaps, not listed as sti though. Then there are the fake sti's. Yes there are exceptions and maybe you're just lucky.

You can always see if a car dealer has already lowered then go test drive it. it's look vs handling so it's personal preference as to what you can live with. i want to keep mine as low as it is but the experts tell me it would be better about 20mm higher. Think it's about 30mm drop is ideal.

You can get a good sti for 8k?

The lower you go the harder the ride plus you can't get as wide rims or they tend to rub somewhere. also the bigger the rims the harder the ride since less tyre to flex and the higher air pressure they use. also the cheaper heavier rims are worse ride too the newer WRX and sti are stiffer than the older cars since the chassis is more rigid to start. mine has lowering springs with 18" rims and is like a hitting a wall with any bump over about 15mm open the open road. Not that there are too many like that and it looks good. Most likely it will get higher when I get new suspension at some stage.

5x100 like Toyota since they own part of Subaru. offset is high around 50 give or take 5mm. Lower pushed wheels towards outside or car. Also wider rims need offset a adjusted to make them fit. 2004 up sti is 5x114.3 wrx. 2014 up and outback can also be 5x114.3 cheapest option find some factory rims you like with good tyres from a higher model. i think struts fit with springs, but not springs alone as they are bigger. Some sti ones with lowering springs on trademe. front may sit high though as maybe designed for more weigh in front with 2.5 and turbo etc. Smart people will answer soon... plus non WRX and sti have no rear swaybar so lean like boats around corners

Car was allergic to S*** mods.

It's kind of cool but again setup of limits and warning light are the most important bits if you are going to use on track. anything that lets you see what's going on daily and have something to compare to when you suspect faults is most likely worth that much if you install the sensors yourself.

Looks interesting but not cheap when you have to spend another USD$115 to get sensors and centeral hub and the warning light which is the most important. digital gauges are good for co drivers or diagnostics but you can't glance at them on track.

About the only good thing auto gauge makes is there pods.

Pretty good place for gauges and looks good match to the car. Oil temp is ok but only tells you if you're really over heating the oil which is unlikely unless you have some heavy and poor mods. oil pressure is great shows you surge or pickup issues but only sometimes before it's too late. Saved me from an engine rebuild when a main seal started to go. wideband is ok but if your can has been tuned it won't show you much unless you have a fuel or air leak. Innovate ones can feed any stock Ecu as well (which is the one I will likely get). The analogue output can be set to toggle voltage like the stock o2 sensor. By default it's wideband as well but you can edit it. If you can get the gauges with warning lights, or set the gauges so when normal the needle is straight up. That way they are easy to glance at on the track. But some people don't like gauges that sit twisted around. Oh and get ones with a headlight input for dimming or ones that are red or night driving sucks. other cool option that wont fit in the gauge pod is disc brake paint. Changes colour at set temps so tells you how hot the brakes are and if you need better brake fluid or cooling.

Images will show up to some users if they have a login for same provider. cookies maintain your account name etc and even if it's another members image it won't count you as third party. but some mod should clear the image crap though. delete the top part on push rods it's so old and v8, and @Loren is right later models of ej20 is shimless.

Not according to 3 lvvta staff if the recaro bolt up then it would be ok. Also by that defininition then kyouu would never be allowed either.

Yeah if the recaro rails bolted up then I've have an easy time. Recaro factory rails are flat and have a good set of mounting points.

Cheers for the answer. Went through it with a few lvvta guys at a trade show last year and provided factory rails and a bunch of other things (seat load sensor so other airbags work etc) it is possible. but if I have to buy full seats to get rails the price starts to go up too much. And factory seat rails (non recaro) are rarely level as they allow room for the adjustment makes them sit really high.

What transmission does it have... auto, but CVT, 4 speed etc? Mrt do a few videos on the autos. 4 speed, looks like solenoid so aren't hard to get too like some brands http://youtu.be/ZZDLC377hHM CVT seems to be known to be weak and there are some modifications to help handle the power. http://youtu.be/O0LYCRMvyMg ring a few transmission shops, I've been lucky in the past and they know the fault as its common and had a cheapish fix. You always end up paying for a fluid change and they always charge heaps for the fluid. an hour calling shops (lots in Auckland) can save you a lot of money and time. but limit the driving as much as you can, auto are always weak and can die really fast once they get a fault. That or the repair costs go way up. download the service manuals if you can find one for your transmission. They have plenty of tests and troubleshooting guides in them (well the mitsi ones always did) In theory the solenoid failure could cause the speed sensor out or range and heat if it held gear too long or allowed oil to travel into two places at once. Usually only one thing fails at once and causes the rest (look at the oil in loom topics).

Anyone try the earlier seats in the v11 08+ or newer?