boon

Those of you with the big shiny gold brakes - what pads do you recommend? Mine are squealing and have lost their bite... For occasional 'spirited' road use, mostly.

Bought the last piece of the intake puzzle... AVO Turbo Inlet hose. So now have replaced Filter-Airbox-Intake piping-Turbo-Intercooler-Exhaust Manifold-(Turbo)-Downpipe-Exhaust Now just to sort fuel out (Aeromotive om nom nom, maybe injectors) and it's time to save up for that Link G4 and tune.......

Mmmm could be both of these now that I think about it. The wheels were swapped recently and the rear right strut was out of the car not too long ago as well. Will check these, cheers.

So with the weather being a bit nicer recently I've been driving more with the window down. I've noticed that when turning left (and I can only hear it with the driver's window down) there's a sort of creaking/cracking sound coming from the right rear corner. Does it even at very low speeds on very smooth surfaces (i.e. carparking building) so I don't think it's suspension or rubbing or anything like that. I wonder if it's anything to do with the wheel bearing? My front left made all kinds of creaky cracky noises when the wheel bearing was on the way out. Relevant crap: 2001 V7, ~115000kms Zerosports adjustables CE28n 17x8 + RE070 235/45/R17

Are you still in Welly? My mechanic mate could do a cashy...

Eeeeeer won't the AFM be doing NOTHING? Since it will see no airflow at all... hence the ECU won't give you any fuel. Plus you'll have no vaccuum on a bunch of stuff. I think it'll run like shit/not at all.

what size top mount are you useing? I got a Process West one from BT. Beautiful piece of gear, modestly speaking ;D It fitted like a glove. You can get some pretty huge ones on Trademe for fairly little money but as someone mentioned the fitment can be a bit dicey. The PW one came with all the little bits and bobs to make it really easy, plus it came with a new splitter for the scoop which is IMO a huge improvement over the factory one. If you look at the setup (in my opinion) you'll see it's gonna cool damn near as well as a FMIC and the piping path is so much shorter. I'm building for response and drivability over top-end anyway, so that's why I went down the TMIC road. p.s. Look into venturi effect, for why a TMIC still works really well even with a relatively 'small' scoop.

A bigger topmount is working pretty well for me... stays stone cold during actual real world driving. Might get a bit hot if I sat it on a dyno with a shitty fan and thrashed it but who cares, that's an unrealistic scenario anyway. I expect it to provide adequate cooling for my power goal of 230-250wkw.

Wellington waterfront, in front of Te Papa. Oddly enough only a few hundred metres from where ApriliaRS's was shot unless I'm extremely mistaken. Damn that coupe is tidy ;O

Just gonna throw it out there that the intercooler is probably the easiest part (after the strut brace, if you have one) to get off, if you're stuck on that then I hate to think how you're going to go with a rusty stud on the bottom side of the downpipe.

I was quite impressed by the Bose sub in my friend's Audi. Considering it took us a while to find the damn thing, it was that small, but the output was pretty respectable. Luckily the fronts have been replaced with something a little less... verBose?

tools?im sure if you meet them they be alot smarter than you mate. your the only tool round here read the thing probly before you start yapping. they were unmodifyed cars and always run on 98 gas,and oil changed regulary. get your facts right mate.these guys were alot older than me and not boy racers. there motors were striped and there was no problem found.too much boost over the years killed the bearingslol sweet mate keepp at it.hopefully 1 day it blows and il laugh in your ugly face Yes, I'm sure their regularly maintained nana-driven completely stock STis blew bottom ends at low KMs... Actually, hold the phone, I'm not. Cars don't just f*ck out at low kms (less than 100k is low kms) when they're looked after by people who aren't tools, driven by people who aren't tools and modified sensibly by people who aren't tools. Therefore at some point in the equation a tool has been involved, if the car is running a BEB at only 70k. There's a ton of V7s on Trademe with well over 100ks that haven't had rebuilds. p.s. You mad? Fire up more? You're an idjit.

My mechanic has a Blue-Point (aka Snap-on) one that is about 5 or so cm high. Cost a very pretty penny though.

So are you saying V7s blow up lots, or are you saying that if you don't service your car and don't look after it and mess around with it it will blow up lots? Just because the 3 people you know with V7s were tools and ran them on 91 octane and 20,000km oil changes doesn't make them unreliable. Mine's up to ~120k, gets oil changed every 5000, it's fairly modified and it runs mint. Might also have something to do with them running forged internals... if you just jump in them and thrash them they will die, gotta wait for the temperature to come up a bit and the clearances to sort themselves out.

Woodcones

Hey it was you that called me out in the first place... And I said just about any gear... make it 2 of those 6x9's and I might give it a crack. We've done 140+ with an 8" sub, 144+ with 2 of them. But 1 shitty 6x9... I think the cone might fall out before it got there. But this is getting way, way off topic.

More flow vs cooler air... say you have a (huge) 500mm x 1000mm x 100mm intercooler. If you flow across it left-right then you get 500cm^2 of space to distribute your air channels but they're 1000mm long so they'll cool a lot more. If you flow top-bottom you have 1000cm^2 of space for cooling channels but they're only 500mm long so they'll cool less...

Say whut now? I hope we're talking old, old oldschool soundstream. Just saying. [quote name='Jakee said: Go Rockford Fosgate. My whole system is Rockford and I'm pushing around 140.2 dB last time we checked /quote] I'll throw out a 140 with just about any gear you care to name... I'll believe it when I see it sorry bro. Seeing as a friend won the 4nR sound off with 143.6 dB. And I have put more money into my sounds than I care to mention. Then he's only got 8dB to go to catch the last car I built... or 7dB to catch the one before that...

Say whut now? I hope we're talking old, old oldschool soundstream. Just saying. [quote name='Jakee said: Go Rockford Fosgate. My whole system is Rockford and I'm pushing around 140.2 dB last time we checked I'll throw out a 140 with just about any gear you care to name...

Wtf double post... see below.

Proof of what? That they're stronger? They're forged from the factory, of course they're stronger.

The Subaru Brembo fronts are unequal too

Don't forget red-hot ruined exhaust manifolds and turbos... combustion belongs inside the cylinder, mmmmkay kids? (Am soooo getting anti-lag on a switch somewhere when I get a G4)

A good alarm installed badly is a waste of time and actually makes it easier to steal your car. And DAMN have I seen some badly installed alarms... Evo 8 with the brain taped to the steering column and the 'black loom' still had the tags on it... How many of you know where your alarm brain is? Do you know if your bonnet sensor works? Do you know what will actually trigger your alarm? The best alarm in the world isn't going to do sh!t if they can get to the siren without the alarm going off. Because unless you have one extremely badass alarm install, if they've got 2 hours to themselves to casually bypass it they'll probably manage. The saying "if they want it they'll take it" only applies to towtrucks and them beating you up and taking the keys. A really well installed alarm should effectively prevent the vehicle being started, full stop.

Didn't it get fairly well established that the number he pulled was at least somewhat generous on the dyno's behalf?