boon

A stroker kit will cost you epic, epic amounts. 270wkw is easy enough on an un-stroked block. Just get rods and pistons, cams would be nice and maybe a little bit of port work but the heads should flow ~300wkw without too much trouble as-is. Save the money and put it into turbo and fueling, they're the things that will get you to your power goals.

Directional RCAs make me lulz... most of them are complete BS, a few very rare ones have a single-ended shield where, when connected correctly, the shield is only connected at the source end so all RFI/EMI should sink through the source negative rather than the amplifier's...

I think they're talking out their arse on that one... I'm pretty sure he said they were RE-01's and they're just an aggressive street tyre like the RE070, not semi slick like a Toyo R888.

I've heard 240kph thrown around re. the NZ ones. But I doubt a lot of Subeys would get there. The overwhelming question is why do you need it removed? Not a lot of people use GTBs for serious track work...

Cambelt, try Rick on here (his username is Ichi Ban) or I could see if my mechanic mate wants a cashie, he's owned and worked on a fair few Subies in his time.

Even 208kw and 23psi = 'significant' mods on a V7. You don't get those numbers with a pod filter and a muffler, that's full exhaust + intake mods + fueling kinda territory.

The 50x4 ones usually produce ~12-17wrms if I remember right. Open one up, there's not a whole lot of voltage conversion components in there... stepping up voltage requires quite a few bits and pieces in a DC world like a car.

Theoretically... I dunno how much the headunit will like it though, it's a bit of an odd one. They're designed to power 4-8 ohm loads, not the quite high input impedance of an amplifier. So it'll sound sh!tty, but no worse than a line-level converter. TBH I've always wondered if those things were any more than just a RCA-speaker wire converter. Most headunits just use a crappy little chip amp driven by splitting the car's 14.4v (13.8v most of the time in a Subey) power feed to give +/-7vdc which means the maximum output you can get on the speakers is a shade over 5vac(rms)... which tells us, from P=V^2/I, that into a 4 ohm load they can only do about 6.5wrms of clean power per channel... Crazy huh?

Argh just bought from them the other day ;/

Full tilt, with your car running, a headunit is outputting maybe a shade over 5vrms to the speaker outputs. Which is completely fine for an amplifiers RCA inputs... oldschool Pioneers like the P80RS would do 7v on the RCAs.... just a matter of setting the gain appropriately (i.e. all the way down)

Oversize "6.5s" annoy the crap out of me, every time it's a custom job to make them fit. Whereas 6.5's that are actually 6's (or supposed to be 6's) fit damn near anywhere with some creative positioning and enough self-tapping screws

-500 points if I can see your alarm siren. -1000 points if I can see your bonnet pin location. Just sayin'

I suspect she's boned. Probably need new ignition barrel + keys to match, at a guess. EDIT: Probably want new keys anyway since presumably the person who took the keys wouldn't mind having the car either.

Diff? Do your brakes ever feel really soft? A buggered wheel bearing will cause pad knock-off and sh!tty pedal feel.

Are they new springs? Give them a week or so to settle.

Is it an STI or just WRX? My v7 STI a. feels terribly sluggish when it's cold and b. had crazy wierd issues when the wheel bearing shat itself. To work out what side it is, turn full lock and drive in a circle, it'll only do it when the bad side is on the outside, if I remember right. The V7 STIs drive badly when cold because they have forged internals, they take a bit longer for all the tolerances to sort themselves out.

To be honest, it's going to be the triangles on the front. A bigger sway bar up front will result in MORE tendency to understeer. Tyres make a crazy difference in this regard.

Closed loop boost control. I don't wanna spend $1000 on a reflash and $700 on a good EBC when I could just spend $2000 and get a G4 instead.

Installed AVO turbo intake. SOOOOOO frustrating. Nice piece of kit though, turns out my factory one was fcked too so good to know it's fixed now. Also fixed a vaccuum leak while I was there due to a fitting not being on quite right. Makes spool and factory BOV sound pretty cool, and I think it's spooling maybe 150-200rpm earlier, at a rough guess.

I'm aiming for 230-240kw@w from my V7 in a reliable, easy-to-drive daily form. Mods list as follows: VF34 turbo (as per a Spec C) 3" Siamese Downpipe 2.5" Cat-back exhaust Tuned length headers Process West top-mount intercooler AVO Turbo intake pipe Process West cold air intake + KN Pod Aeromotive in-tank fuel pump Link G4 plugin (which handles boost control) Staying with standard injectors (565s) which will limit me to a safe amount of power for the block. Might get them decapped or replaced if it looks like I'll get another 10kw before the turbo runs out of puff but the underlying main goal is for power with factory-like reliability.

Primo. Those subs sound really good in sealed boxes... and ported... and bandpass if you want to be ambitious. Very versatile.

It's plastic on my STi. But it's been on and off a bunch of times and it still seals fine. Just don't get over-enthusiastic trying to get it to seal by cranking the bolts holding the BoV on, or you'll strip the threads in the intercooler.

Was going to say (couldn't find any on Trademe) that the DD-LE's are very capable and nicely finished. I have the 10" for a throw-in sub when I can't be bothered doing a big install, they go well.

Any Alpine dealer should be able to get you one. Will be ~$20. I got one for my 7949 a while ago and thats a helluva lot older.

02, is it a Version 7 or Version 8? AFAIK both were available in 2002. I don't think the internals will be entirely reliable @ 400whp. That's 300wkw and probably 500-odd hp at the flywheel. By all accounts they're good for roughly 250wkw as a safe/everyday kinda thing. What mods do you have already? If you haven't already, a full turbo-back exhaust and more open intake will change how it drives, drastically. You could even get a reflash and have a safe, reliable ~220wkw without too much trouble. The Spec C turbos are really pretty damn good turbos on a street car. Big turbos are fun but when they're only getting spooled at 4500rpm and you're shifting at 5k most of the time then you'll have a lot more fun with a setup that makes 20psi @ 3000rpm and snaps the revs from 3000-5000 before you can even think about it. EDIT: If you're fixed on changing the turbo, check out the Blouch Dominators. They're big, built around Garrett ball-bearing cores, fit the factory position, reasonably affordable and will flow more than you'll ever need on a daily driver.