boon
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Everything posted by boon
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This is just potato. The usual stupid 6x9 boxes you see on the market are like 10 litres maximum. A 5 second look at some random 6x9's (middle of the road Kicker ones) has the Vas at 42 litres. Compare this to say, a reasonably high-performance 12" sub (DD 3512) - recommended enclosure size of 1.75-2.75 cubic feet (roughly 50-75 litres), but that driver has a Vas of just 22 litres. I mean somewhat apples to oranges but putting a speaker with a Vas that huge in a tiny box is basically like "let's prevent this cone from moving worth a s***". It probably sounded better because it was getting caned without a high-pass, and the tiny box helped it to not run out of xmax when the bass dropped
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Don't put 6x9's in a box. This is a common misconception. Most 6x9's, the manufacturers realise that the most common place they will be installed is in a parcel shelf, so they are designed with very high Qms (mechanical control) and have stiff suspension to allow them to run in this state. They work best in what is usually called an "infinite baffle", where there is no enclosure on either side of the cone, but a baffle that should be sufficiently large that the front and rear waves will never meet. If you want parcel shelf 6x9's to sound better, try closing up all the other holes in your parcel shelf, then sound deaden it to prevent the shelf itself from vibrating. Note that 6x9's with a boot sub is a losing game, because, especially in a sedan, the sub enclosure will, to some extent, effectively couple with the boot as an extension of the enclosure (essentially creating a kinda janky bandpass) and having some moving 6x9 cones essentially forming a part of that enclosure is always going to be slightly janky. EDIT: Most door speakers are effectively running in a pretty s*** equivalent of infinite baffle, and car speakers, by and large, have very stiff suspension to compensate for this. This also contributes to them often having ludicrously high power ratings compared to home audio gear, and is also why home audio drivers sound like s*** in a car and car drivers don't get loud in a home audio installation. #audionerd.
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Yeah that's the car. The SLAP one is the airbrushed one (or at least it was until it got sold).
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Years back we built a BMW 5 series (530 maybe?) for what I call "SQL" - sound quality as a priority, but it had to get loud. An insane amount of dynamat and expanding foam went into that car, along with well over $10k in gear, it was f***ing awesome. Did over 140dB on music and sounded really, really nice doing it, and the best part was that even at full tilt there was no obvious sign, other than the bass itself, that it was coming from that car. No rattling boot lid, no buzzing doors, just bass.
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At some point I should pull finger and put some nice fronts in the Legacy. In fact, I'm putting that on my summer "to do" list, this thread has got me all inspired ?
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Nothing wrong with something a little better than stock. Just no point doing it what I consider "properly" At some stage I will install some of my hoarded gear in the STI, but it will just be a set of nice-ish 2-way components up front and maybe a small ported sub in the boot, plus a couple of nice little class-D amplifiers to run it all tucked in the spare wheel well. Proper bass is too heavy for a performance car, and proper sound quality is unachievable. But better than stock is still a really nice thing to have
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I used to be super into the sounds thing. Crazy crazy into it. Now the STI has an aftermarket headunit and stock speakers. Not much point sinking too much $$ into sound quality in them because the exhaust is always going to be loud AF, plus road noise etc etc. If you want to get loud without going large the solution is high quality drivers and lots and lots of power. A (edit: high quality) 8" sub in a good ported box with 1500wrms up it will kill the s*** out of most 12" boxes in a sealed box with 250w pushing it.
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As a side note just re-reading this thread, is it even important to have each corner of the car react the same to a bump? I dare say it's almost an impossible thing to achieve outside the confines of something like Formula 1, just the distribution of weight in the car, different stiffness, and the frankly probably enormous variance in the tolerances and construction of the car means you're never going to get even close. But it's all moot anyway, because when is your car ever going to experience exactly the same "bump" on all four wheels?
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Unless you have a non-linear spring, in my brain changing the preload doesn't change a thing? If a spring is, say, 10kg/mm, it's 10kg/mm whether it's 0% compressed or 50% compressed, so compressing the spring more doesn't require any difference in force? It does mean the spring pushes against the perch a bit harder though.
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Stayed with OE colour. As far as I can remember the output drops off considerably as you go into the bluer/whiter colours.
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Best bet is to get some good quality high-output HID bulbs and give the headlight lenses a good polish. I'm running genuine Philips bulbs in mine and they're pretty good.
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Can I install UEL headers on a 2004 Impreza 1.6 ts?
boon replied to Lowkey's topic in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
They have EL headers. They are a budget option for getting an EL header if you want to do that, because the flange location matches a turbo up-pipe. -
Don't bother, I ran 230kw for years with no issues with the stock inline rail configuration.
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You do what you can eh, I've left my arms looking like a teenager with some serious emotional issues after sound deadening a couple of doors. Amazing how much stuff back there is slicey as a slicey thing.
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Did you do the outer door skin as well? I find that's equally important for sound quality purposes.
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If you have 0.5v between the sensor ground and ground-ground then you have a wiring fault, bad ECU ground or bad loom ground, or just maybe you have a failing alternator rectifier and some AC is getting into your electrics. Disconnect the loom from the ECU and measure the resistance between the pins on the sensor end of the loom and the ECU plug end.
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I'm gonna play devils advocate and say that unless you can find something else that killed it (failed injector or something) then it almost certainly was the tune, a little bit of knock will savage your big ends. Relatively low kms and power to have it run a bearing.
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Is the uppipe itself leaking or the flange between it and the header? If it's definitely the up-pipe, I'd probably just ring a wrecker and get another factory one. The Redline ones are fine; some people had issues with the flexis in them but I think my twisted one was built from a Redline one and it's been fine for years.
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A 2.5 CVT Outback will, I 100% guarantee, have an open centre diff; there's a decent chance that the car is effectively 2wd until it detects some slip anyway. I wouldn't stress about it.
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Aerodynamically the same, but presumably a cheaper, heavier material. Same flow potential, worse spool and transient response.
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Wow that S257 is outrageously good value. Journal bearing though, I presume? So you don't get the magic beans of the EFR centre section, but outside of that is appears to be aerodynamically the same turbo.......
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Ahh, 7163 then. As long as it will fit, otherwise you'll need one with Indy housings, and they're a fair bit rarer than the 6758's.
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What size is your motor? Still 2.0? I'd seriously consider an IndyCar 6758 if you can find one. May well give you the largest area under the curve due to insane spool characteristics. Use a big gate so you can let the engine breath a bit easier up top. Otherwise, EFR7163 twinscroll IWG if the packaging works. Buy @McMasterJamie's one.
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Haha 3 out of 4 tyres agree that they are s*** and need replacing. Set of four and an alignment tomorrow then Otherwise passed! Go the Legacy.
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Took it in to fail it's WoF. 99% chance of new tyres today.
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