boon

Yes. His torque would have come much earlier in the curve then dropped off - lots of torque times not many revs = some power, almost as much torque times more revs = more power.

Installed 2" lift kit. Not on the Subey

Torque IS power. Did nobody here do physics at school? Torque = force, Power = work/time, Work = force*time. KW = Torque * RPM... with a couple of other numbers thrown in.

The human ear is quite poor at detecting the directional source of low frequency signals. So you can put a sub in your boot, and especially with some signal tinkering (phase and time alignment in particular) you can bring the sub 'forward'. Our ears are very good at determining the location of higher frequency sounds, and this locational information is used by our brain to determine a lot of stuff about the source of the sound. For example, if you listen very, very carefully to a well recorded track on good equipment you should be able to place the individual instruments/artists on the stage. When you put components in the rear, particularly with the tweeter seperated and up high compared to the woofer, you can get some very, very curious effects, psychoacoustically. When you hear the exact same sound from in front of you, then a very small moment (path length difference) later from behind you, it basically makes your brain think you're in a very small room and you're hearing a reflection from behind you, or that there's 2 identical noise sources, which is very very rare in nature, and confuses the brain. It will just about make you feel like you're sitting in the middle of the performers. Interestingly enough this is pretty much how most nightclubs have their sound setup, with speakers in all 4 corners with messed up path lengths, so if you're after club-ish (read: crappy) sound, then the same speakers at all 4 corners is probably the go. If you want more of a concert style sound, or live performance, then good speakers up front with low-passed or no speakers in the back is the way to go.

I repair amplifiers in my spare time... if only people knew what was going on inside them The old Fusion FP-1404 is about the most bulletproof amp ever made. You have to do something completely obsurd to kill one, yet I still find them on trademe from time to time for $50 'as is' with popped output transistors.

That's a helluva lot of power from that setup. What injectors are you running, and which dyno was it on? I'm aiming for similar power levels from my V7. Oh and just to keep it on-topic... I'm staying TMIC, got myself a Process West one on the way. For road driving tbh it's going to cool just as well as a FMIC for sub-250wkw and even if it only lags slightly less than a FMIC, that's still less, and my entire modification path has been about increasing spool, early power and torque.

Get some good 6.5s and install them well then low-pass them. Something like old Fusion Jonahs. Won't look horry like 6x9s in the doors always do.

6x9's suck, get a sub. Edit: Unless you don't want to run a sub... p.s. if you cut metal up there it's epic WoF fail.

I miggght be imagining things but isn't the downpipe in the way of the bolts on the up-pipe? If you remove the downpipe and the up-pipe... doesn't the turbo come away as well?

I've re-used both of my turbo gaskets, up-pipe gasket and exhaust manifold gaskets and I have no leak issues. Doing the headers... if standard ones will bolt up to whatever up-pipe is in there then it's a quick and relatively easy job, hardest part will probably be getting the O2 sensor out without breaking it... If you need to do the up-pipe as well then it's a pretty big job, as mentioned you have to pull the downpipe, turbo, then the up-pipe. So probably a couple of hours and a lot more mess since you would be removing coolant and oil lines from the turbo.

In which case shouldn't you run some funky relay setup so that the turbo timer runs the fans backwards, hence pushing the hot air out of your engine bay, rather than pulling air across the radiator (heating it up) where it will stagnate in all the little corners of your engine bay... hot air rising and all, and the bonnet scoop generally has a big 'ol top mount in the way.

Bear in mind that if you modify a damn thing on the car the warranty is probably goneburgers...

Nah still deciding what I'm going to do in general. Seriously, it's not a nice hose, 99.9% sure it's fake even though it says Samco all up and down it. You can pull the metal fittings out with your fingers.

Eeer, kinda... in lower classes it's car off, in higher classes it's engine optional but you're limited to a certain number of RPM... so you just run 4 300A alternators anyway. A good battery will provide ~800A, Gel batteries usually good for close to 1000A at a burst... and some of the AGM rapid discharge batteries I have kicking around are good for like 1550 CCA or ~3000A discharge. Which is handy when your amps pull 1000A

A 1 farad cap stores less energy than a 9v battery. Just gonna throw that out there. There's a lot of reasons why your lights dim with high power audio... I wrote up a huge thing about why even a battery won't solve your problems (theoretically a cap is better, although relatively useless on a big system if they're less than ~10F) Mostly it comes down to the fact that you've only got about 50A on tap at 14.4v from your alternator, after that you're getting 12.8v or so from your battery. Go crank your sounds with the engine off, I bet you a dollar they won't dim unless you're running a pretty rude amount of power. The reason a gel or AGM battery works a little better is because when they're freshly charged they float at close to 14v... EDIT: Stuff it, let's go into some theory here: 1 Farad means that it can supply 1A at 1A for 1 second C = It/V, or Capacitance = Current x Time divided by voltage So we have 1 Farad and about 14v so with some quick re-arranging 14 = Current x time So you can pull 14A for 1 second before the cap is discharged. At 14v this makes ~196w input, if we factor in a Class A/B amp and its roughly 65% efficiency you get 128w of output for 1 second from your cap. Now this is all wonderful if you're powering your amp with nothing but a cap but the problem is that the cap won't discharge below the overall voltage of the system. So once your alternator can't keep up, let's say you're dropping to 12v. You get a 2v discharge from the cap, throw that into the earlier equations and you get 18.2w for 1 second. And once the cap discharges to the same voltage as the rest of the system, it does NOTHING except present an additional load on your alternator, because it is trying to charge up again. To bring this all back around though. Music is transient load, your voltage drop may in fact only last 0.1s. In which case the cap can discharge 182w for that 0.1s, and prevent your headlights from dimming! Oh happy days In conclusion, they do, in fact, do what they're advertised to on a small system. They also help to mitigate voltage drop across your power cable.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-300952441.htm

They very much look like it. Same as RS25 as well I would say.

Damn, 14psi... wonder who set that up. Factory they boost 17-19psi and 20psi isn't unheard of with a free-flowing exhaust. That's running 98 all the time though.

No thanks - just bought something else today

Yeah, 99% sure it's fake though. Make me an offer?

Right... the final piece of my intake puzzle. What options are out there for an under-manifold intake pipe for this car? I'm currently looking at Perrin and AVO options. I have a Samco one here but I have a sneaky feeling that it's fake so I don't really want to put it on the car. What's out there?

That Galant is MONSTA - made by the same guy as SHARK (the green diamante with the fin on the roof) - same guy has ruined a Merc too. When I last saw it at 4nr a couple of years ago it had 4 monster tachos - there's 3 on the passenger side of the dash, hahaha.

Ordered some fancy Australian aluminium goodies for it

V7 STi has forged pistons, crossdrilled crank and semi-closed block.

Mmm +1 for no cat in JDM V7 STi up-pipe. One in the down-pipe though which, if I was to remove, I would just change the downpipe anyway